A few weeks ago I posted My latest .38 DA 4th model. Looks great, but... some pictures of a .38 DA I had purchased that was missing a cylinder stop and trigger spring. Since then I have acquired both of these parts and managed to install them. The revolver now functions, mostly, but I have still have 2 problems.

First, with the hammer down the stop does not project far enough from the frame to lock the cylinder. It stops it from moving clockwise, but not counter-clockwise. The top of if is a bit worn, so that my be the problem. Pulling the trigger causes all the right things to happen and with the hammer all the way back the cylinder locks nice and tight.

The second problem is that after releasing the hammer the trigger does not return all the way forward. I can push it forward against some friction, but it won't do it on itself. I reassembled the trigger guard a couple of times and I think I have the trigger spring right with one leg of the V pushing up on the trigger and the other pushing against against the guard.

Do these symptoms sound familiar? Any suggestions or words of wisdom?

Thanks

Howard

sounds like your missing/not properly installed v spring that goes on top of trigger guard. I highly recommend you get the david chicoine book.

I have the Chicoine disassemble book and have found it less then useful. There are no x-ray views to show the relationship of parts in the assembled gun, he frequently says to note a relationship without describing it and if the part was missing then noting the relationship is not possible and his assembly instruction are to just reverse the disassemble process, again less then useful. Sorry, I am just venting on my disappointment with the book.

Anyway, I do have the spring, but it might be slipping off the small projection of the trigger while I am struggling to get the guard back on.

Thanks

I thought the diagrams were decent enough. Yes the trigger V spring is a very hard part to correctly install. I was fortunate enough to have a couple of springs at different lengths so that I could properly install. Its tricky to get it just right. Good luck and just trying very frustrating but once you get it right you will know.

Everett

It's possible your trigger spring replacement, if it's not a newly made spring with the correct length and tension strength, is an older spring that has lost some of it's strength and now has difficulty returning the trigger to it's correct position. Ed.

It is possible. It is definitely not new. I see that Numrich has them for $10.

The trigger return spring has to be the biggest pain in the rear of these models! I have had some goe in correct on the first try. But most fight you forever! The trigger has to be all the way forward. Put the spring in on top of the lip on the trigger. Slide the trigger guard on with the spring side first. Pull down on the other side and pray! Now cuss and do it again!! If it is in correctly I mount the frame and trigger guard in a padded vise and use a hammer handle to push the guard down. Good luck.

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Tom
NRA Pistol Inst

One of the reasons why I only usually work on my more "modern" S&W's. The guts of most J,K,L, N are mostly similar and easily accessible. (And Colt revolvers are impossible).

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

hsr, I use a small pair of needle nose pliers with the soft rubber on the
handles . I open the pliers up and use the handles as a clamp on the trigger guard. They are a pita but if it was easy women & kids would
be doing it. Hdhic

I have actually become pretty good at it by now. It is assembled correctly with one leg of the spring on the little lip of the trigger. There just seems to be some friction that is holing it back. If I pull the trigger back and quickly pull mu finger off of it, it will spring back into the fully forward position. It is only if I release it normally that it stops. Either the spring has lost some tension or there is something else rubbing.