I wasn't looking for one, but couldn't pass it up.
This time, its a 3rd issue, .32 CF, in somewhat worn shape externally, but very good mechanically and with a good bore and chambers.
It had a hitch in its gitalong when cocking, but I was certain that nothing was actually damaged or broken, so I bought it.
It will make a nice companion to the 2nd issue .32 RF the forum members were so helpful with, in finding the part I needed to put that one back in operation.
When disassembled, the problem became evident (actually, all I had to do was remove the grips): the mainspring was missing (probably broken), and someone had replaced it with a Colt-type V-shaped spring, which wouldn't stay put and didn't function at all correctly. None of the internal parts were damaged or broken.
Now, I need to replace the mainspring with a correct type. On inspection, and having worked on a good many Smiths of various models, it seems that there is very little difference in the flat mainsprings used... but I couldn't find one around the shop (I'm sure there is one, somewhere), and didn't want to dis-assemble any of my other revolvers.
So... does anyone know whether I can, in fact, make-do with a modern (K-frame, say) spring, possibly with modification, or, failing that, where can I find a proper replacement?

Thanks;
PRD1-mhb-Mike

It is more appropriate to call that revolver a 32 Single Action. There was another Model 1 1/2 in 32 Rimfire built earlier than the 32 SA and can get confusing. Thanks for adding the CF to help clarify which model you have. Also, there was never a 3rd Issue designation.

Most small frame double action revolvers have a mainspring that can be fitted to your gun. Check Numrich for 32 Safety or even 38 DA or Safety mainsprings.

I believe a K frame mainspring may be too large and too stiff to work properly in a 32 SA.

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Gary
SWCA 2515

Appreciate the response and corrections - I've only very recently become particularly interested in the early S&W revolvers.
I will check on the availability of the mainsprings for the DA revolvers, though Numrich is not my favorite source - they did come through with a split spring for my 1 1/2 RF revolver, though.
I will also get my hands on a later mainspring, and see what can be done with it: I don't believe (from prior experience) that it would be too stiff for the earlier revolvers, which seem to have very strong springs, presumably to insure reliable ignition with the early ammunition - I suspect that the later model springs, for the K/L/N series, may be too long, and would need to be shortened, but I can do that.
In any case, I will report on whatever does happen...

Thanks;
PRD1 - mhb - Mike

Let me know if you don't have a spring. I might have one that will work. Email me if you need one.

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Tom
NRA Pistol Inst

That is very generous of you!
I did check-out the parts offered by Numrich (and other possible sources), but found that the spring they offer as correct for the revolver I have is not listed by the same numbers as the .32 and .38 DA or ND models, and costs $35; almost twice as much as the most expensive for the other models, and more than I'm willing to spend on it before I determine that I can't solve the problem by other means.
On the other hand, I can get brand new S&W springs for less than $6 each from Brownells, and have several of them to work with (and for spares) for the same or less. I doubt I'm the first person to think of this, and hope that perhaps one of them will share his experience.
Meanwhile, much thanks!

PRD1 - mhb - Mike

Mike if you need 1 or 2 K Frame springs I can send you them, I have several you can play with to see if you can make work. Just PM me with your address.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

that the members of this forum are exceedingly helpful and generous.
I am very much obliged for the offer. I believe I will have the necessary spring(s) in-hand locally by Monday, but, failing that, I will certainly take you up on it.
And, as I said earlier, I will report on the results of my experiments, in any case.

Thanks again!

PRD1 - mhb - Mike

This morning, while looking around the shop for a completely different part, I found a K-frame mainspring (I was pretty sure I had one).
Then, I commenced working to see whether it could be modified to work in the .32 SA: the conclusion, after several hours of comparing, measuring, altering, tweaking, and exercising my vocabulary (that part reserved for difficult and trying circumstances), was that it can't be done.
The geometry of the SA mainspring and all its dimensions are critical to correct function, and the correct spring is both shorter, thicker and much more curved than the K-type.
During the process, I did remove the mainspring from my 1 1/2 RF revolver, and it is not interchangeable in the SA, either: the length is apparently different from the SA, and the seat is located differently in the frame, while the strain screw in the SA is longer.
In a 'what the heck' mood, I tried the modified Colt mainspring which was in the gun when I got it, and discovered that the person who made the substitution may not have been crazy after all: the real hitch in the V spring's function was that, in cocking, the 'tail' of the hammer contacted the upper limb of the spring in a place and at an angle that caused the spring to 'jump' downward at the tail end, while making the hammer try to compress both limbs of the spring together against the frame, which it couldn't do. After thinking about it, I tweaked the spring so as to permit the hammer to be cocked without interference, and did not cause the spring to jump about in the frame - at the same time, it gave full freedom of movement to the hammer throughout its travel, and allowed the 'half-cock' rest position of the hammer to work properly as well, while having sufficient power (I'm confident) to fire reliably.
I'm gonna finish cleaning the revolver, put it back together, and, weather permitting, shoot it tomorrow.
If it works as well as I think it will, I'll report again and provide photos of the spring and its placement in the gun as a fix which may be useful to others in the same fix.
Sometimes a blind hog does find an acorn...

Thanks again for the support!

mhb - Mike

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Sancho! My armor!

As promised.
I did take the .32 SA out this morning and shot it - it performed perfectly.
As the target shows, it shoots high of POA at 12 yards (as expected), but the windage is right on. The first few shots, with the blade tip level with the top of the rear sight notch, were at the top of the paper - the remaining rounds were fired with the blade tip level with the smaller notch at the bottom of the rear sight. The hardest thing in shooting these early pocket revolvers accurately is the sights, which are very small and, in the case of the front sight blade, a source of considerable glare, making it difficult to determine exactly where the top of the blade is - that accounts for most of the vertical spread.
Ammunition was some fairly elderly R-P .32 S&W - it turned out my total supply of this caliber was the 28 rounds remaining in the box. Some of the bullets were rather oxidized, so I rubbed them with the lube I use in my CW rifle-muskets (mostly beeswax and Crisco) before shooting them. Function was normal and accuracy was (opinion) very good.
The photos show the assembled revolver on the target; with the sideplate removed and the hammer in fully forward, 'half-cocked/rest', and fully cocked. Note that the mainspring did not move in the frame.
I was pleased that the substitute spring worked perfectly, and can honestly report that this method (which I can't take credit for, as a concept) makes it possible to return this neat little Smith to full functionality. It ain't beautiful, but it still does the job (both the revolver and the repair).
The photos aren't great, but are about the best my camera and skills can provide.
I hope this information proves interesting and/or useful to forum members, who have been most helpful.
PRD1 - mhb - Mike

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Sancho! My armor!