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05-04-2016, 06:17 PM
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.38 Double Action 2nd Model maybe?
My wife bought me this gun as a present last summer, igniting my interest in these old top-breaks. Finish is not too bad, bore is bright with a sprinkling of light pitting. Everything works as it should and the trigger is excellent. Serial number on the frame and cylinder match- 64300.
Any information would be appreciated; I'm just not educated enough to be sure about the model or it's date.
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05-04-2016, 08:02 PM
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From what I see, you've nailed the model. You should also find the serial number between the "ears" of the barrel and often they are very tiny and split in half between the ears. Also, the number will appear on the inside of the stocks but be very careful removing them as they can be very brittle and there is a locating pin at the bottom of the butt.
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Mike Maher #283
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05-04-2016, 09:14 PM
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Thanks Mike- I'll have a look.
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05-04-2016, 09:28 PM
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Tinker, loosen the stock screw a few turns but don't remove it. Tap the screw head with the butt/handle of the screw driver. That will loosen the off-side grip/stock enough that it will fall free of the frame. Then tap lightly at the inside, bottom center of the stock to remove the other stock.
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Mike Maher #283
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05-04-2016, 09:33 PM
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OK, I'm stumped- what are the ears of the barrel?
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05-04-2016, 09:42 PM
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...and the grips are staying right where they are at; the bushing the screw goes into free-rotates, so taking off the grips would be more effort, and more likely to damage something, than it's worth.
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05-04-2016, 10:27 PM
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A comment and a suggestion. The ears are the vertical flat tabs on either side of the top latch. If you open the revolver, raise the latch and look at the rear of the top strap there are small numbers either on one or both sides of where the top latch enters the barrel assembly.
I have had luck by using a couple of small pins. You will need 4 hands to do the job. First, place the gun in a padded vice and put a drop of oil on the thread and let is set for awhile. Take the 2 pins and insert them between the escutcheon and the stock to stop it from turning. While someone puts pressure on the pins, try the screw. It is really best to try to fix the problem before you have to get into the grip frame for repairs or lubrication. Once you get the screw out, use high strength epoxy to secure it back in place.
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Last edited by glowe; 05-04-2016 at 10:28 PM.
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05-04-2016, 10:44 PM
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Thanks Gary- the serial number (in two parts) between the ears is the same as the others. I'll see about getting that screw out tomorrow when I get into the shop again. I have an idea or two inspired by your description.
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05-04-2016, 11:59 PM
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OK, got the grips off after all. There is a number lightly scratched in the left grip- 26140, so the grips are apparently not original. I guess 3 out of 4 ain't bad.
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05-05-2016, 12:06 AM
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Just a thought, but, if you can remove the grips/stocks,
you can replace them for shooting with some I-frame
stocks. I found them to be exactly the right fit, plus
it makes the ergonomics better. That way you won't
have to worry about ruining the originals.
I got mine off GB. All my old 38S&W guns got the treatment.
Just sayin'.....
TACC1
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05-05-2016, 12:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TACC1
Just a thought, but, if you can remove the grips/stocks,
you can replace them for shooting with some I-frame
stocks. I found them to be exactly the right fit, plus
it makes the ergonomics better. That way you won't
have to worry about ruining the originals.
I got mine off GB. All my old 38S&W guns got the treatment.
Just sayin'.....
TACC1
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I actually have some custom grips I made that I can swap on-
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