I am going to look at a model 1 2nd issue tonight. Since this is my first model 1 is there anything I need to look out for? I am told it functions like it should, but there is little if any finish on the old girl. Non-fluted cylinder, 3 patent dates on the barrel latest Dec 60, serial #80XXX.

Any insights or tips would be greatly appreciated.

Gary

Look for looseness in the fit of the barrel to the frame .and if the front of the cyl. is moveable when the barrel is closed and latched. Hope that is not polished to shine ,(all patina removed)

Hello Gary, you chose a great little S&W to collect. There are seven variations of the 1st issue. I look at over all condition and wiggle at the hinge. Then the grips. They should match the grip frame. Be patiet removing the Rosewood grips. Dont go prying and smacking with a hammer and punch. I have found finish dictates cost. Dont shoot it.
Do a search, there are some greet posts. What does the guy want for it? Best

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Mike 2796
SoFo Bunch member

Thanks for the advice.

Be patient removing the Rosewood grips. Don't go prying and smacking with a hammer and punch. Never. I don't get impatient with any of my firearms. If it takes time, it takes time. I understand that something that's over 100 years old may require patience. Damage can't be undone, it can be repaired, but I'd rather not have something damaged by my hand.

What's he want for it? A Ruger LC9 in trade.

They can be shot with 22 CB shorts. I shoot the one used as my avatar all the time. . .it's a 3rd issue made in 1874. You do have to be careful. Every time you cock the hammer to fire make sure the cylinder is aligned with the barrel and locked in. . .not a gun you can take out an shoot haphazardly.

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Dr. B

A Ruger LC9? Is that like $400? Man, I will step out of this. Best

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Mike 2796
SoFo Bunch member

If he wants the Ruger, he better add some $$$ if the S&W is without finish.

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}-----Jim----->
~SWCA #2732~

Actually I paid 269 for the LC9. Are these common enough that it's not worth 269? I'm honestly asking. I have gone to many shows since moving back to MI including antique gun shows and haven't seen more than a couple and they were all priced a lot higher.

The Model 1-2 has letters of numbers stamped on the butt frame under the stocks, on the front of the cylinder, and on the barrel frame just ahead of the cylinder. All should match, but the stocks will be stamped with the serial number found on the butt if original.

The hinge on these guns are often loose, but sometimes you will run into a replaced screw. The originals were an odd size and do not match anything available today. Often an owner will add a new screw by re-drilling and re-threading the frame. Check the hinge and screw closely. A slightly loose hinge can be easily tightened by compressing the frame hinge until the barrel fits tightly and when tightening the screw, the hinge will function like new. The frame is brass, so almost all that are well used will show some degree of play at the hinge.

The latch is another area to look at closely. The frame portion of the latch area is also brass and can wear and loosen the latch. Some are worn enough that when shooting them, the gun will open up.

Inspect this gun as you would any other firearm - form and function. Form in that the gun should be original, without buffing, alterations, or barrel liner. Function in that the hammer should hold in full cock without push-off. The trigger should be crisp at hammer-fall and the cylinder should lock tightly into battery every time you pull the hammer back to full cock. Make sure you check each of the 7 cylinder positions. Good luck.

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Gary
SWCA 2515

Hello Gary, agree with you. Anybody buying these should follow your lead.
If it was was made in 1860, it is 156 years old. When I see them, Im just happy to have it and appreciate the history. Great post. Best

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Mike 2796
SoFo Bunch member

The Achilles heal of any Tip-up is the "Split Spring" that allows the cylinder to unlock as the hammer is cocked. As the cylinder revolves to the next charge hole; the cylinder stop should engage the cylinder and then re-lock it in battery. You stated: ".. it functions like it should..". Double check the seller's statement as if the spring is only 'half-there' or is broken; you will have a long search for that part.

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Mike Maher #283

OH! I forgot one little point. If you see a Mod-1 in a kinda funny little plastic case with an ammo block in it, pls. call me . Although they are really common, I collect them. Why, I dont know, I just like them. WINK!.
Hey, I tried. Best

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Mike 2796
SoFo Bunch member

Hello Gary, agree with you. Anybody buying these should follow your lead.
If it was was made in 1860, it is 156 years old. When I see them, Im just happy to have it and appreciate the history. Great post. Best

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Mike 2796
SoFo Bunch member

It may corny but when I can find a gun that was around early in a company's life I picture the people who walked up to the job station checking tolerances and workmanship. I think about how it traveled, by wagon or horse back to wherever it went for sale. The time it may have spent in saloons or brothels. I just wish I could have answers to those questions. Yes, the history means a lot to me. I will soon be requesting a factory letter for this one and a 1905 I have. Life has just dictated I must wait for the opportunity. This one is 150 years old. I can wait a little longer.

Gary

Gary, I can not imagine the working conditions back then. I have pics of the factory at Stockbridge Street back in the 1860s. Four story brick bldg. and
I can not see any AC or air handlers on the roof. I think the little brick bldg. off to the side was a mens room. UUUM was really delightful in Aug.
So much for the good old days.

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Mike 2796
SoFo Bunch member