I recently acquired an antique Top Break revolver that has no serial number (that I can find). I attach a picture. It has a five-inch barrel. Other than S&W info, the barrel includes the following patent dates: Jan 24 35, July 11, 65, Aug 24, 69, July 25, 71, May 11, 80, Jan 3 82.

I believe it is a 38. The only 38 shells I have are too long to fit, but otherwise do. A 32 shell is too small.

Thanks for your help. SW revolver.JPG

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.38 S&W, double action 3rd or 4th model,depending on serial number. I'm not an expert,though...

Thanks, Breakaway.

The only numbers I can find are on the butt of the hand grip. I'm led to believe those are production numbers rather than serial numbers.

No..that number on the bottom of the grip frame is the serial number.

Thank God there is a Sn. on the bottom of the grip. You had me concerned. What is the number?

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Mike 2796
SoFo Bunch member

"The only 38 shells I have are too long to fit"

Of course they do not fit. You are probably attempting to use .38 S&W Special cartridges. Your revolver requires .38 S&W cartridges, shorter and with a slightly larger case diameter than the .38 S&W Special. Unfortunately, while .38 S&W cartridges are still available, most retailers do not stock them, as there is not much demand for .38 S&W today. You may need to have them special ordered for you, or buy some from internet sources. They are not cheap.

Ok, guys. Here are the numbers on the grip: 282556

Thanks for your interest and help.

Welcome! You have a later 3rd Model 38 DA; probably shipped around 1892 give or take.

Welcome. That serial number puts in well into the production time-frame for a 38 Double Action, 3rd Model revolver made from 1884 to 1895. This model saw saw several improvements over the 1st and 2nd Models. The company made almost 200,000 of this model and overall, over 554,000 were manufactured.

Your revolver shows lots of nickel loss from the barrel area, probably from shooting black powder cartridges with corrosive primers, then put up without cleaning. As long as the function is good and the gun is tight, it will handle standard 38 S&W ammo without problems.

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Gary
SWCA 2515

Thanks Gary and Russ. You've been very helpful to this novice.

If all parts are original, you will find the same serial that's on the butt, on the bottom of the barrel latch, on the rear of the cylinder, on the rear of the barrel between the "ears" and on the back side of the right grip panel. These number are very small and often require a magnifying glass to see clearly. Judging from the photo, the gun may have been refinished at some time in the past, as you can see a clear definition of the outline of the side plate, indicating past buffing to renickel. Ed.

True enough, but a few things to consider. You may live somewhere where black powder is not easily found. Also, BP will gunk up your gun in a hurry, and the best way to clean it is by using hot soapy water. Cleaning after use is messy and a hassle to say the least. Light charges of smokeless powder are completely safe - if you have the tools and equipment needed plus the rudimentary skills required. If you are not currently a reloader and don't plan on shooting all that much, you are better off using factory smokeless loads if you can find any.

"you are better off using factory smokeless loads if you can find any."

People keep SAYING this, like .38 S&W was some sort of oddity.
Midway lists four brands with three of them in stock today.
38 S&W- MidwayUSA

If you have gun shows nearby or better yet gun club shows or swap meets, try there for ammo. Many times I will find old boxes of ammo brought out by some old timer that is cleaning out his gun room of stuff he just doesn't use anymore. Usually can be had for short money.

Don't you just love those old dogbone boxes..... Click on the photo a couple of times to enlarge.

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James Redfield
LM #497