Hello all.
Yesterday i started to dismantle my Model 3 frontier, to replace the broken stirrup.

Here's the original thread about this revolver:

Lucy's new model 3 frontier .44 winchester ctg


Well, thanks to Ralph Tremaine, who helped me with the dismantle instructions, i achieve without problems to take off the hammer, nice!
The revolver was in a bath of W40 for 2 days some months ago.

But the problem appears when i wanted to remove the pin that attaches the stirrup. I was not able do it. I try with a hammer, and a long ( same diameter) pin, and no way.
Then i went to visit an old fire arm mechanic ( 90 years!), and he was not able do it with the standard procedure...
I propose to him to let the hammer for two or 3 days in W40..

What can i do to remove it? any ideas? i'm soooo close!!!

Here some pictures

Thanks for your time and ideas.

Fabian

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Freeze it in Liquid Nitrogen then drop it in a pail of hot water. It should loosen that pin up.

Dry ice might be easier to get.

I have used this method many times when we didn't want to use heat on small machine parts.

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40 yrs Millwright Machinist

Hello DBenn, thanks for your answer.

Dry ice seems easier here, how can i proceed with the solid ice? to achieve to freeze the part?

I'm neeophite on this procedures, sorry...

Thanks!

All we ever did for such a small part was pack it in dry ice for about 20 minutes. We then took it out with tongs and dropped it in boiling water. Crush up the ice to pack the part in.
The contraction and sudden expansion should loosen that pin enough to be carefully pressed out.

A small arbor press is nice to have as well.

Caution- dry ice burns skin so wear good insulated gloves.

If you use liquid Nitrogen be extremely careful you do not splash it on bare skin, wear a face shield.

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40 yrs Millwright Machinist

DBenn, very clear.
Txs for your time!

When things get stuck I have always had better success by pressing with an arbor or hydraulic press than by hammering on it.


EDIT: If you have access to it a 50/50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and acetone works a lot better as a penetrating oil than any product on the market. Even tranny fluid by itself works better than WD40.

One question and one suggestion. Are you certain that the pin punch is smaller than the pin you are trying to remove? No marks on the hammer? I have had success in the past by turning the part over and trying to remove it from the other side?? I place the part on a pine board and try to drive the pin into the pine. The board offers sound support and the pine will offer no resistance to the pin.

Good luck.

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Gary
SWCA 2515

In addition to the 50/50 ATF and Acetone and the soft pine board, a "cupped starter" punch will help. Brownell's sell the punches. The cupped end of the punch will center itself on the pin and won't slip when whacked with a hammer.

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Mike Maher #283

This and no mention of KROIL. You can make a cup punch by drilling a short hole in a piece of drill rod ,Hole to fit the pin you are trying to move ,Then try to remove pin .If a arbor press is not handy you can put it in a vise and press it out with something backing up the stirrup

I don't know how to remove the pin, but love the photo of your friend's shop.

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Some collect art; I shoot it!

Thanks for your comments, lot of info here.
Yes, the punches has less diameter than the pins, and we try to do it in boh sides.
We do not try the vice way. I guess it will be my next one.
Txs all!