Hello all,

I have come by a S&W top break pistol. I got it from a buddy of mine who knows I am into firearms. It was his great uncles. He has no use for it and is not into firearms at all. He traded me the pistol for a case of Bud lol.

Any way it's a top break Smith&Wesson.
38 S&W CTG.
5" barrel
fixed sight.
looks like original grips.
Finish is mostly gone, but no rust.
Auto eject works.
There is a "tension" screw at the front bottom of the grip
Top strap reads "Smith and Wesson Springfield Mass USA
PAT'D MAY 11 1880 JAN 13 1882 APRIL 9 1889"


When I manually cock the weapon the cylinder will rotate but not lock up.
Double action Will rotate cylinder. But not pull back hammer.
Trigger will not spring forward after being pulled.

Questions as follows
Any idea on model? 1st 2nd ect ect
Any idea on common market value?
I looked, and see that I can get 38 S&W Ammo. After a smith looks at it you guys think it's ok to shoot? I know low pressure ammo only.

I plan on having it fixed. I am kind of weird about stuff like this. I loved older guns with "history" I don't mind putting some money into it to make it in working order.

Serial number is 427XXX
On the serial number thing. I know some people put it in like I just did. Some do the whole serial number. Thoughts on going whole number vs X's?

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S&W .38 Double Action Fourth Model made sometime 1899-1909.
Somebody will be along shortly to pin it down closer than Flayderman.

Getting it repaired may be a challenge. We can hope somebody here can help on that, too. A collector once told me that the topbreak DA Smiths were their counterpart of the Colt Lightning. An early design, not very strong.

Mr. 77, fairly common 38DA. Dont spend a heap of cash on fixing it.
But, if you like it , do it. In that shape they usually sell for $200 at shows.

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Mike 2796
SoFo Bunch member

Welcome to the forums from the Wiregrass! What you might do is soak the gun (sans grips) for several days in Kroil or Ed's Red Gun Bore Cleaner. It is probably gummed up. I would remove the side plate and clean the insides with a brass brush and a pick. You could flush it with aerosol brake/carb/parts cleaner if you don't want to open it up. But, if you do, look carefully for a broken spring. There are folks here who can help you repair it and some even have parts. Once it is functioning correctly, you can shoot modern .38 S&W in it. When smokeless rounds first came out, there were many guns chambered in .32 and .38 S&W. So, cartridge manufacturers kept the smokeless pressures at the BP levels and in 1972, they lowered them even more. These old guns are fun to shoot occasionally.

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Guy
SWHF #474 SWCA LM#2629

Looks like it is in better than average condition for this model. Probably shipped in 1902, making it a modern firearm by BATF definition. It sounds like the timing is off, or there may be a problem with the cylinder stop. With the action open, slowly pull the trigger and watch the cylinder stop. It should rise from a slot in the bottom of the frame under the cylinder. If it briefly falls and then rises fully as the hammer cocks, that part is functioning properly. When the stop is in its highest position, push on it to see if the spring is sound. You should feel the spring resistance and it should come right back up.

Another check is to close the gun, pull the trigger in double action mode and hold the trigger back. Rotate the cylinder to see if the stop will snap into the cylinder notch with a little assistance. If it does, the timing is off on the gun. Check all five cylinders to see if any lock up as they should.

You might get lucky and find a gunsmith that will work on the revolver, but many are not knowledgeable on S&W top-breaks. Parts are available, if you have the talents needed to disassemble and repair the revolver yourself. Parts are often sold on ebay, gunpartscorp.com, and other gun parts sites.

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Gary
SWCA 2515

Serial 382,002 is accepted as the BATFE cutoff between pre-1899 "Antiques" and post 1898 "Modern Firearms" for the .38 DA. Therefore, yours is legally a "Modern Firearm." .38 DAs are very common with over a half-million made in several variations, and many are found in fairly high condition. Unless in really superb condition, they do not sell for high prices. And in the condition you describe, maybe in the range of $100-$200 if you can get it working properly. Most gunsmiths will not touch these, and if you can find one, it will not be cheap. But you may be able to work on it yourself.

Thank you everyone for the fast and awesome responses. A ton of great information here. From how to check it out for proper operation, repair, and information on what it is was more than I hoped for. I hope to be able to pay it forward soon.

I will keep this post updated with findings and repairs in the hopes that someone else can benefit from it.

Some folks fear that if you post the whole serial number that some unscrupulous person will report the gun stolen from him and cause you a bunch of trouble with the law. Even if you have proof that you purchased the gun the fear is that the gun will be confiscated and be held by LE while the matter is sorted out.

Personally, I think that the chances of that happening are extremely remote and post full serial numbers when talking about my guns.

Gotta run, making up some new tin foil hats.

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James Redfield
LM #497