Greetings fellow Smith guys. I picked up a 38 SH and have a question which I can't find by searching. I'm much more familiar with newer S&W revolvers where dry firing is not bad for the revolver. Is this the case for the older ones as well in a hammer-less design? This one was bone dry when I got it so I opened her up and lubed but I'm holding off on multiple dry fires to work in the lube til I know its OK.

From my research it's an early 3rd model with SN 45386, and has been refinished. It locks up pretty good and I want to send a few rounds though her safely.

Thanks for any input.

Attached Images

SH 38 mod 3.jpg (40.8 KB, 56 views)

I do not know, but personally would not dry-fire ANY firearm. Maybe I am being overly cautious, but it will never happen to any gun I own. If you must sit around the house clicking your revolvers, at least buy snap caps or use fired cases, but I believe it is best just not to do it at all to any of your handguns.

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Gary
SWCA 2515

My opinion, a couple of dry fires won't hurt anything, but extensive dry firing should be done with snap caps in place. I have broken a firing pin on a .32 DA of near the same vintage. Metal wasn't of the quality then as it is today.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

our experience has been that the 'safety hammerless' revolvers do have a tendency for the firing pins to break when dry fired excessively.

I have never understood the desire to dry fire firearms. I did it once at the suggestion of a friend with a .32 Colt pocket pistol and watched the firing pin travel down range. I have NEVER done it again.

Turn lines decrease value so why add any wear unless you are actually shooting the gun???

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James Redfield
LM #497

I'm not worried about turn lines on this, it has very little collector value being refinished.

I guess I should have been more clear in my question why I would dry fire this revolver. I've read and I know of guys fire Smiths dry with no issues, but these are hammer revolvers from 1960 (27-2) on. Makes sense the older ones may not have as strong steel. If I was doing a deep clean and lube on a newer revolver, I could cycle the revolver while letting the hammer down slowly or using snap caps to work in the lubrication.

With an internal hammer de-cocking is clearly not an option.

At any rate, after opening the side plate to clean and lube the revolver, it seems to function much better and locks up before the hammer falls every time now. I think I'll pick up some 38S&W and give her a go.

Thanks to all for the input.