Maybe a 1st model top break

Justthatdude · #1 10-05-2017, 01:22 AM

So I have a buddy that picked up this revolver for dirt cheap didn't fire didn't know why so he hands it to me and says "hey fix it for me would ya?" And one parts order later I'm irritated and have a box of wrong parts so I'm thinking its a first model top break ...a week ago I thought it was a 4th model but that's in the past he said is 32 S&W but I can't really confirm any advice or input would be astounding and thank you in advance

opoefc · #2 10-05-2017, 01:51 AM

Welcome to the Forum. Assuming it's a .32, what's the serial number? That would be your first clue as to what model it is. It's not a 4th model, as the cylinder is the style of the 1st, 2nd & 3rd models. It's not a 1st model as the side plate is incorrect style for a 1st model, so it is probably a 2nd or 3rd model. 2nd model serial numbers run 31 - 22172 and 3rd models run 22173 to 43405 approx. Small parts differ in all the models, so repairs can be iffy and frustrating. You will need to get a parts diagram and schematic from a parts dealer, or the original S&W parts catalog to identify correct parts, and even then something like a cylinder stop part can be different in each model, and parts suppliers are not that knowledgable as too which gun a part may fit. Now you know why your buddy for it cheap ! Ed. Good Luck.

Justthatdude · #3 10-05-2017, 02:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by opoefc

Welcome to the Forum. Assuming it's a .32, what's the serial number? That would be your first clue as to what model it is. It's not a 4th model, as the cylinder is the style of the 1st, 2nd & 3rd models. It's not a 1st model as the side plate is incorrect style for a 1st model, so it is probably a 2nd or 3rd model. 2nd model serial numbers run 31 - 22172 and 3rd models run 22173 to 43405 approx. Small parts differ in all the models, so repairs can be iffy and frustrating. You will need to get a parts diagram and schematic from a parts dealer, or the original S&W parts catalog to identify correct parts, and even then something like a cylinder stop part can be different in each model, and parts suppliers are not that knowledgable as too which gun a part may fit. Now you know why your buddy for it cheap ! Ed. Good Luck.

353xx so 3rd model
And honestly I need grips and a hammer spring I know how it all fits together but finding it for what i understand to be a 100ish year old revolver

Wiregrassguy · #4 10-05-2017, 04:24 AM

Welcome to the forums from the Wiregrass! The gun pictured in your first post is a 2nd Model, .38 S&W Double Action made from 1880-84, SN range 4001-119000. I can tell it is not a .32 by the size of the cylinder in the frame. Here is one I own.

Replica grips are available here. Replacement hard rubber grips are found on eBay as are mainsprings.

glowe · #5 10-05-2017, 08:59 AM

Yup - 38 S&W is the caliber. The 1st & 2nd Model 38 DA had the same internals, but the 1st had a straight cut sideplate that the factory found weakened the frame.

The gun has been re-nickeled as evidenced by the trigger and hammer, both were case hardened originally. Cheap is relative and in the condition the owner received the gun may or may not turn out to be a good buy. A non-working refinished 38 DA always sells cheap, since there in no collector demand. The 32 & 38 Double Action revolvers remain one of the lowest valued S&W ever made, partly due to the large numbers of both production and surviving. I do own a few and they are great fun to shoot at the range and will gather a group of plastic gun owners who have never seen one before.

Justthatdude · #6 10-05-2017, 08:43 PM

Ok so thanks to everyone for in advice so we as a group agree that it is a model 2 not the problem is I can't seem to find a mainspring /hammerspring on eBay my question is this comes up on under 38 top break da would these parts work or am I still looking at the wrong gun still

38 Double Action Revolver Schematic | Numrich

And just to Clarify my understanding was dude paid 50ish bucks for it

JSR III · #7 10-06-2017, 08:06 AM

Welcome to the forum.

It looks like you are missing the mainspring. Since I am relatively new to the study of the antiques, I am not sure how the mainspring attached to the hammer. There may be another part that attaches to the hammer bottom that engages the split fingers of the top of the mainspring but I am not sure and don't know what it is called.

Quote:

And just to Clarify my understanding was dude paid 50ish bucks for it

Not sure what you are saying here but if it is that your friend paid $50 for the gun then he probably overpaid. As you can see from the parts list, a mainspring and reproduction stocks will cost him around another $50 so he would have $100 into a refinished low demand 100 year old S&W.

As others have stated, thousands were made and this one has zero collector value due to the refinish. As a shooter, it may be a novelty but today most of the younger crowd wants black plastic guns that shoot a gazillion rounds. 38 S&W ammo is more expensive than .38 S&W special as the special ammo is more desirable so more is made which lowers the cost.

So all in all, many of us find great satisfaction taking a pile of old parts and adding whats missing to create a shooting example of a 100 year old gun. However, it is done for fun and many times the rebuilt gun exceeds any possible resale value.

Wiregrassguy · #8 10-06-2017, 08:09 AM

That is the correct schematic. You should be able to find parts because of the significant number of these guns that were manufactured. Often you can find them on eBay. And there are other sources including in our classifieds forum here.

Guy

Justthatdude · #9 10-13-2017, 03:01 PM

So can anyone give me a size on the hammer spring I've got on that's too long and I've got one that's too short the one that's too long is 3.125 and the one that is too short is 2.875 (or 2.7/8)