Trigger Kick-Back

[Geezer7]

Colleagues

I have 2 different .38 DAs that have trigger kick-back when the trigger is pulled SA. DATP works just fine.

Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance
Geezer7

[wlw-19958]

Hi There,


I'm not an expert on these 38 DA's but I know there was a major
change in the lock work between the 2nd. and 3rd. models. Do
you know which models you have?


Cheers!
Webb

[Geezer7]

I have one 2nd and one 3rd model.

[mmaher94087]

I'm guessing that the SA sear (rear sear) or the SA hammer sear or both have been chipped and filed. Even an overzealous stoning will mess up the timing on these DA revolvers. A test (no grades given): slowly cock the revolver in Single Action. At the moment that the arm cocks, check the lockup of the cylinder. If the cylinder is not in battery but needs a small nudge to lock, then the most likely problem is/are those (or one) sear(s).

[Alk8944]

Just like all revolvers in the "Hand Ejector" series this is a symptom of "push-off", when the trigger is so light that merely touching it causes the hammer to fall. The double-action sear catches the trigger because the trigger spring pushes the trigger forward enough for the D.A. sear to catch the trigger as the hammer falls.

This can be a result of wear to the hammer sear notch, the S.A. sear, or both. Improper /in-judicious work on those parts can be the cause too.

It is realistic at this point to accept you have a double action only revolver unless you are lucky enough to find a replacement trigger and/or hammer. Maybe JP@AK can advise you on parts sources.

[wlw-19958]

Hi There,

Originally Posted by Alk8944

Just like all revolvers in the "Hand Ejector" series...

These 38 DA's are completely different internally from the Hand
Ejector series. I cannot speak to the 2nd model but I have 3rd
and 4th models to study.

The 3rd and later models used a double action (front) and single
action (rear) sears. The rear sear is not only used for the single
action hammer release but it also controls the timing of the cylinder
stop bolt. The underside of the hammer is the "cam" that the
rear sear follows to control the timing of the stop bolt.


Cheers!
Webb

[Exmilcop]

I had a pistol (and actually I have another one right now) with exactly the same problem. Granted, as I understand a proper fix (barring finding original parts) is to build up the worn parts with dab of weld and then file or machine back to original specs. Who's still around who can do that kind of old school gunsmithing on those lovely old pistols? I did find that in single action if you "pull through" the stutter then it'll let off normally. It's just a matter of not allowing the trigger to go forward as it wants to.

[BMur]

The best practice is to have in your collection an example that functions perfectly. Then match each part with the mal-functional example with mild welds as mentioned. It’s not that difficult.
Mig welders are cheap and practice makes perfect.
What is difficult is a cosmetic weld that has to look original such as a frame crack, exterior pitting fill, hammer welds, etc.
Internal welds don’t have to be perfect, only strong and functional.

My first welds were for SAA hammers that often have the safety and full cock sheared off. Very simple weld repair and extremely productive and profitable. The repair is strong and not visible when assembled.


Murph

[wlw-19958]

Hi There,

Originally Posted by BMur

Mig welders are cheap and practice makes perfect.

Murph

One would be better off with a Tig welder.


Cheers!
Webb

[merl67]

What Mike said would be my guess too either worn sear, or someone been trying to adjust to make a lighter trigger...

[mmaher94087]

Thank you, Randy. I've messed with these for 50+ years and there is no other item (or thing) that can cause this problem. I agree with TIG welding but I'm not capable of this. My best is a gas welder and I'm retired and not interested in pursuing the restoring of these antique Smiths, although I'll give out my experience for free.

[wlw-19958]

Hi There,


If it is the rear sear, a replacement is available from Jack First
Gun Parts (at $48.00 each).


Cheers!
Webb