Need Smith & Wesson New Model 3 Part

Hey Sal, here are those photos you asked for. Thanks,
- Joe

Joe, that looks good. How about the cylinder ? How does it look ? Can you post a few pix of the cylinder from rear (breech), side (profile) and front (discharge holes) ?

How does it feel if you manipulate the extractor shaft while the cylinder is out ? Sal
 
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model3sw

Hi Sal, here are some pics of the cylinder. All of the serial#’s match, and the recess is fully cleaned. The action worked fine when I got it, but stopped working after I cleaned it for the first time with Renaissance Wax. I took it to a new world gunsmith who didn’t have a clue, then an old world smith who diagnosed the problem. He was pretty baffled about how a cleaning could have such an effect. I’ve also uploaded a video to YouTube detailing the issue, the link is below:

Smith & Wesson New Model 3 Extractor Cam/Ejector Problems - YouTube
 

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I'll venture that the extractor spring has the missing gas collar pieces caught in the windings. Picture two and three of the cylinder appear to show those pieces.
 
I'll venture that the extractor spring has the missing gas collar pieces caught in the windings. Picture two and three of the cylinder appear to show those pieces.

Hi Mike, I’ll disassemble further and let you know what I find in there.
- Joe
 
Joe, that looks good. How about the cylinder ? How does it look ? Can you post a few pix of the cylinder from rear (breech), side (profile) and front (discharge holes) ?

How does it feel if you manipulate the extractor shaft while the cylinder is out ? Sal

Sal, the extractor shaft seems move pretty freely with the cylinder out.
 
Hey Sal, my serial # is 8297. I don’t have any 44-40 on hand, but I’ll be able to get my hands on one within the week. I’ll also be posting those photos you asked for in a few hours. For what it’s worth, I appreciate the depth of your responses. Thank you,
- Joe

Forget trying the .44-40. It is outside the serial number range for the Frontiers.

I feel those markings you showed, me, the A and P / L ? may be U.S. Inspectors markings which is very rare for New Model 3. These same letters / stampings are on the U.S. Schofields.

I am not "for sure" on those markings but I feel pretty good about them. I have forwarded the info to Col Pate. Got my fingers crossed for you !!
 
New Markings Found

Hey Guys, I discovered a few more markings on the #3. The serial is stamped on the butt under the lanyard ring. Also there is a “star” type marking in between the frame posts. Unfortunately my letter to Mr. Jinks did not have this information in it.. Any info? Thanks,
- Joe
 

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Updates

Hi guys,
I’ve decided to take it to a machinist to build up the cam arm so that the ejector drops properly. I’ll let you guys know when it’s finished. In other news, we got a letter back from Roy Jinks. I’d like to share it with you all. Thanks,
- Joe
 

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Cam repaired, problem solved!

Hi everyone, the NM #3 is up and running again. Charlie’s advice was to have a machinist build up the underside of the cam arm with a precise weld. After it was welded, I spent a few hours doing some careful metal polishing to get the built up spot to slip under the frame with the rest of the cam arm and drop the ejector down. I really appreciate all the input that you guys have given me over the course of this, thank you very much :). I’m posting a few pictures of what the repair looks like, the gears under the plate and here is a link to a short video of the mechanism working: Smith & Wesson New Model #3 Ejector Problem Fix - YouTube
 

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I understand that because this revolver was manufactured before 1898 it does not matter, But if this were a more recent gun how would drilling the hole for the lanyard ring through the serial number on the butt affect is legality. "And" if it matters are there any courses of redress. Can it be fixed. Can it be made legal.
 
If S&W pulled a gun out of inventory and obliterated the serial number when installing a lanyard ring; they would re-stamp the serial number under the left grip/stock on the frame. I do not believe that there is any mechanism for "fixing" an obliterated or 'altered' serial number.
 
It depends. There is a process for applying to BATF for a serial number. Some folks have reported success in getting one but I don't think anyone knows how many were applied for and denied.
 

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