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  #1  
Old 07-19-2018, 01:56 PM
drknstrmyknight drknstrmyknight is offline
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S&W No. 1 2nd Issue Ejector Pin S&W No. 1 2nd Issue Ejector Pin S&W No. 1 2nd Issue Ejector Pin S&W No. 1 2nd Issue Ejector Pin S&W No. 1 2nd Issue Ejector Pin  
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Default S&W No. 1 2nd Issue Ejector Pin

My pistol is missing its Ejector Pin, and I was wondering if it was the same part as the 1st Issue and / or if anyone knows a source.
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Old 07-20-2018, 07:33 AM
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Try Numrich (Gun Parts Corp) or Jack First (do internet search for Jack). Also, about 20 year ago I reorganized the old, used parts at Sarco in New Jersey but it seems the original owners are gone and the company moved. They had everything but didn't know where or what most of the old parts were until I organized the parts. Would be worth a try as #3 on the list.
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Old 07-20-2018, 08:32 AM
drknstrmyknight drknstrmyknight is offline
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Tried then, Jack has what they describe as a 1st issue pin, but I don't know if they're interchangeable. I also don't see how the pin is retained on this second issue, one parts list describes a screw but this look like a blind hole.
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Old 07-20-2018, 10:02 AM
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I am not an expert on these guns but if the hole in the frame is not threaded which is how I interpret your term "blind", perhaps the extractor rod is threaded and the screw tightens by using the rod threads??????
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Old 07-20-2018, 10:22 AM
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Default S&W No.1 2nd issue ejector pin

From what I recall, The Model 1-2nd issue revolvers the ejector pin is fixed in place. Model 1-3rd issue, model 1-1/2 and Model 2, the ejector pin screw may be removed and the ejector pin may be withdrawn from the barrel. Hope this helps.
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Old 07-20-2018, 11:52 AM
mmaher94087 mmaher94087 is offline
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The 1st Model, 1st and 2nd issue ejector rods are a press fit to the barrel. No screw is present. First Model, 3rd issue has a screw through the rod that is threaded into the bottom of the barrel.
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Old 07-20-2018, 02:15 PM
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This is one of the easiest parts to make and it only takes a long shaft #1 wire drill. Heat the drill to take the temper out of the steel and cut it to length. Fashion the head to match the originals and either tap it into the frame or use JB Weld to secure it in place. Many of those old tip-ups that have lost their ejector rods have an enlarged hole so adhesive is your best bet. They are about 1 1/4" exposed measured at the bottom of the rod have one Model 1 2nd that has a slightly longer rod, so I think that there was some leeway in manufacture.

I have a couple of images that might help.
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S&W No. 1 2nd Issue Ejector Pin-model-1-jpg   S&W No. 1 2nd Issue Ejector Pin-p4040006-jpg  
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Old 07-21-2018, 03:48 AM
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I have a Model 1 ejector rod that has the hole for the screw. That would be for the 3rd issue according to Mike. It would be available for sale if that is what you need. You can PM me for further information.

Keith
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Old 07-21-2018, 08:48 AM
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Assuming that the screw hole in the rod lines up with the hole in the frame on the 3rd models, couldn't one use a rod from any of the three models? The frames that are designed for a press fit rod would hide the rod hole of the third style when it is inserted and epoxied into the frame.

Using a rod from a first or second model in a third model would produce a different problem if I am understanding this difference correctly.
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Old 07-21-2018, 10:12 AM
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The hole for the screw would be visible on the 2nd Model, since they were exposed on the 3rd. The rod goes into the frame of the 3rd as well, so cannot hide the hole. Making a rod is a simple process and a very nice reproduction can be made quickly.
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Last edited by glowe; 07-21-2018 at 10:15 AM.
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