I’m currently in the process of cleaning mine and found out I need one spring and of course it has to be the barrel latch spring

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Hey guys !

I finally received my Factory Letter from the S&W Historical Foundation today !

Well, I don’t know why Roy called me Mr Branton but anyway...
I’m a little disappointed because he made a mistake on the last digit of the serial number but I guess it’s not very different (a 3 instead of a 2), hopefully

So, it was shipped from the factory February, 16, 1865 and delivered to J.W. Storrs Co. in New York. 6 inch barrel, blue finish, smooth rosewood grips. The shipment was for 75 units.

I don’t think it was used during the civil war unfortunately.

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French Pollywog

My letter was dated 2/14/2020

Most likely it is how hard you pull back on the hammer. Pulling slightly faster or slower will change where the cylinder stops. For me, the best method is to index each chamber by very slowly pulling the hammer to full cock. If that chamber locks into battery, it is good. Proceed to the next chambers to determine which ones do not come to battery.

If you identify the chambers that do not lock properly, next determine if the cylinder comes up short or skips beyond the notches? If too short, use a flat nose punch to slightly flatten the tops of the star, then try until it comes to battery using the slow pull method.

As for your revolver Civil War use, it is usually thought that any Model 2 shipped before serial number 30,000 could have made it into service before Appomatox - April 9, 1865. Logistics being what they were, horse and wagon or train, were quite slow. Roy has always said that almost all these revolvers went to distributors, so this letter holds true. My guess is that your revolver was destined for the European market and probably sent to one of S&Ws distributor in England or France. That meant that it was shipped to Storrs and then maybe shipped to Europe out of New York.

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Gary
SWCA 2515

MAGNIFIQUE!!

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Retired Dep Sheriff & Armorer

Thanks. Maybe you’re right or maybe it was sold in the U.S and then imported at some point in its life. We will never know.
There are a lot of sellers over here that go to the U.S, buy antiques guns and bring them back to Europe for selling them.

I sent an email to the SWHF one week ago or so about the mistaken serial number but don’t have any answer yet. Maybe I should better write and mail a letter to the Warren address once again...

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French Pollywog

Below are some additions and more detail on my original post that might help with your cylinder issues.

First thing I would determine is if there is any excessive cylinder shake? Is the cylinder loose in the frame? If so, since these old guns that will rarely if ever be shot, mix epoxy and fine steel filings and partially fill the hole where the cylinder seats in the barrel assembly. After setting, take a small drill bit, slightly smaller than the diameter of the protrusion on the front of the cylinder. By hand start removing the epoxy until your cylinder has only the slightest forward and backward movement and rotates freely without resistance. Try the revolver again and if it indexes, that was the issue. I have one Model 2 (shown below) that I have probably shot a few hundred rounds through it and the cylinder is still perfectly tight using the epoxy fix. This procedure is easily reversed, whereby the epoxy is easily removed without any damage to the gun if desired.

It should not be necessary to pull hard on the hammer to index the chambers, and if there are still a couple cylinders that come up short, try this next option. Locate any chambers that are still not coming up to battery and at the same time determine which ratchet locations are the cause. Take a flat-nosed punch and, with the cylinder secured off the gun, tap the problem ratchet points, then keep trying the cylinder until it indexes properly. By hitting the top of those ratchet points with the punch, you are making it fatter and helping remove the excess play if the hand is not too short. Slow and easy can provide a fix on those chambers that are coming up short.

Forgot to comment on the letter issue. I believe replies and letters are running a month or so from the request date.

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Gary
SWCA 2515

Send me the original letter to P O Box 669, Warren, MA 01083. You can fold it and put in a #10 envelope. I'll get it to Mr. Jinks for correction.
Don

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Don Mundell

It’s very true! I’ve seen foreign buyers at several shows. They are “very aggressive” and carry large shoulder strapped carry all’s. Filled up with antique guns.

I mean I think it’s a great thing that it’s becoming more of an international Market? Great also for our collection values. I just find it hard to deal with when someone is breathing down my neck when I’m holding an antique that I’m ready to buy from the dealer and they keep asking me if they can see it? Then after I buy it “ Do you want to Sell”? “Give you a better price”. I try to be nice but when they start following me I get kinda spooked and turn back on them with a very clear “ No”.

So, The language barrier and culture can be an issue.

Murph

Thank you.
Should I really have to send the original one and not just a copy ?

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French Pollywog

Yes, why would you want an incorrect letter?

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Don Mundell

In case for any reason I don’t receive the new one. I'm always wary of what could happens with the mail.

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French Pollywog

I am a newby here, been reading a while, but not posting. Very interesting discussion about the Number 2, thanks for all the knowledgeable replies. Two questions, is there a fee for the factory letter, and since I have two of the #2's I was going to ask about them both in the same request. Second: is this a good thread to post pic's of my #2's? Is there interest in seeing others?

raylesworth, you need to start your own thread. Go back to the Antique start page. In the upper left is a button for starting a "New Thread". This way your thread doesn't get mixed in to the replies and lost.

There is a fee for the letters. I believe the cost is $100 per serial number. Check the top of the Forum for the 'Down Load' section. The form should be there.

Google: The #2 Project. There is a boatload of information there. There are several reference books available too.

Oh, Welcome to the Forum.

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Mike Maher #283

Thanks, will do. BTW Dennis Olson of Plains MT is a very qualified microwelder/ gun smith of many years practice. The best with metal that I have run across in my 40+ years of messing with old rusty arms.

"Google: The #2 Project.". Try Model 2 Project. Ron Curtis.

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Mike Maher #283

If you email Roy, with a scan copy of your letter, to advise him of the typographical errors (name, SN, etc) ... he will send you a corrected letter at no charge.

I had once received a batch of 3 letters for 3 x pre-39s from Roy ... all of them had my name and address correct but then said Dear Mr. XXXXX ( cannot remember the name he typed but it wasn't mine ).

It happens !

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ANTIQUESMITHS
LM1300 SWHF425

I sent him an email about mine to add it at the database but no response. Very interesting website though.

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French Pollywog

Lady Smith,
I believe there is a link or 'button' on that site that will allow one to inter their information directly to the database on that site. I believe it might say "Take the Survey". It has been a few years since I added my information so things may have changed. I, too, like that site.

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Mike Maher #283