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12-20-2019, 11:12 AM
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Thoughts on Refinishing a 4th Model
Hello All
I recently acquired a nickel plated DA .38 top break 4th model (pre-1898) for 100 bucks. The finish defiantly has signs of wear on it. Id say 65 to 75% of the finish is still left. What are your thoughts of getting it factory refinished? I know that it strips a lot of value away but right now there isn't much value to begin. and I don't know if factory refinishing makes a difference vs normal refinishing.
The action also has a problem where the hammer doesn't springback after firing which in turn doesn't let the trigger return. Snapping back the hammer once or twice fixes it. Anyone know what spring might that be? Rebound spring? Firing pin spring?
Thanks
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12-21-2019, 06:46 PM
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Photos required
Welcome.
Please provide photos. The more the better the forum can evaluate your collectible without guessing. You can use the camera on your phone? And simply post them using “ manage attachments “ on the bottom of the post.
Murph
Last edited by BMur; 12-21-2019 at 06:47 PM.
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12-21-2019, 07:47 PM
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Pictures are helpful, but to answer your questions about refinishing one the factory won't touch it, two the cost of a quality refinish will far out strip the value of your gun absolutely no good reason to do it. A careful cleaning then polishing with mothers mag or Flitz will greatly improve the look. As to the function issues carefully remove grips do not pry them they will break first loosen the screw until it is almost out tap the screw head with hammer handle pushing off the opposing grip then push the other grip off from the inside. Using break parts cleaner flush out the inside of the gun and re-oil this may be all that is needed to get it working properly.
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Randy
Last edited by merl67; 12-22-2019 at 12:47 AM.
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12-21-2019, 07:56 PM
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Even though it has little value, I would leave it alone. Not to mention the cost of refinishing, 65 to 75% original finish is better than the 0% original finish left after refinishing.
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12-21-2019, 10:20 PM
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Does your DA, .38 have an exposed hammer? Or, alternatively, no visible hammer (which would use a firing pin spring). A good cleanout (grips off) might fix the problem.
A refinish is not recommended as it isn't cost effective and destroys all originality. There were thousands made and if you want a nice finish I recommend buying a nice example.
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Mike Maher #283
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12-21-2019, 11:37 PM
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I attempted to refinish a nickel plated 1st model M&P 32-20. I had no idea how much damage can exist under an originally nickel plated firearm. It is truly amazing, I would never again attempt to refinish any nickel finish that wasn't just worn, if there were any deep pits scarred with rust I would leave it be and do everything I could to stop the existing rustification including the possibility of deep bathing in anything that kills rust, then scrupulously cleaning and a final cover of wax. My effort left me with a parts gun that functions, if the rust had not been a serious I could have finished it in something that provides enough of a surface cover to fill some of the damage. Good lesson as it wasn't much of a value going in.
Last edited by Kinman; 12-22-2019 at 04:59 PM.
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12-22-2019, 12:27 AM
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Throwing darts blindfolded
Of course a photo or two would be a good thing?
Murph
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