antique gun help!

[dmill]

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4.jpgCan you guys please help me in intifying the value of this antique revolver?

Smith & Wesson No. 3,I believe or correct me if im wrong??? I found the gun in a foreclosed house, we cleaned out and it almost went in the trash! rescued from the garbage bag, and it appears to be all original

also is it worth restoring?

thanks

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[Camster]

Not sure of the model, but 99% (100%?) of antique guns should not be restored.

[Babysitr]

Welcome to the forum, have it looked over before trying to shoot it! nice find..

[murphydog]

Welcome! The five shot cylinder and .38 S & W CTG stamping on the left barrel make this a .38 Double Action. The serial number puts it in the early-mid 1900 decade.

It looks to need a long soak for rust removal (with the stock panels off; they are fragile and may break, however). Many recommend a 50:50 mix of ATF and acetone in a sealed container.

If it cleans up and functions, it is perhaps a $200 gun. But good for you for rescuing it from the trash!

[jimmyj]

Restore it as a rainy day project

[glowe]

Welcome to the Forum. DO NOT use commercial rust remover!! It will strip any remaining bluing off the metal. Some of these condition guns have an amazing amount of bluing left under surface rust, so first wipe it down with an oil soaked rag. Rub hard and keep it up until no rust comes off on the rag. That and a good lubrication of the mechanism may be all you want to do. Take the stocks off and spray a synthetic oil up in the internals and oil all moving parts like the cylinder pin, top latch, and extractor star. You can remove the cylinder by lifting and holding up on the top latch and pull the cylinder to the rear and unscrew. Do not let the latch down until the cylinder is removed completely and do the same to reinstall it. Clean the barrel and chambers with a brass brush and some good old Hoppe's and take some more pictures to post.

[dmill]

thanks guys

[Velle]

Originally Posted by glowe

Welcome to the Forum. DO NOT use commercial rust remover!! It will strip any remaining bluing off the metal.

There's no bluing there. It's nickel plated or at least was.

[glowe]

Originally Posted by Velle

There's no bluing there. It's nickel plated or at least was.

Still, try the same thing on you nickel. Nickel can actually be polished with Mother's Mag Wheel Polish. Last resort is rust remover for nickel, since it is not known to attack plating, but if any nickel is loose or bubbled, there will be rust underneath and so some additional nickel loss is possible. Good luck.

[bk42261]

I notice that the hammer is cocked. Is that how you found it? Please be sure it's not loaded before you do anything else!!

[mmaher94087]

I'm a fan of the 50/50 mixture of ATF (Dextron II or III works) and Acetone along with a 7 day soak. As stated; gently remove the grips/stocks being careful not to chip the center bottom as there is a blind pin that aligns them. I recommend loosening the grip screw two-three turns and gently tapping the screwhead with the screwdriver handle to drive the offside panel loose. Tap the base of the remaining panel loose from the pin from the inside and soak the revolver for a weeks sleep in the brew. Fine Bronze wool (ACE Hardware) will not scratch the remaining nickel but will remove the loosened rust.

[Jason Demond]

Originally Posted by murphydog

Welcome! The five shot cylinder and .38 S & W CTG stamping on the left barrel make this a .38 Double Action. The serial number puts it in the early-mid 1900 decade.

It looks to need a long soak for rust removal (with the stock panels off; they are fragile and may break, however). Many recommend a 50:50 mix of ATF and acetone in a sealed container.

If it cleans up and functions, it is perhaps a $200 gun. But good for you for rescuing it from the trash!

Would it not be a .38 DA Model 2, 4th change?

[mmaher94087]

.38 DA, 4th. SN 322701 to 539000.