Hi I was wondering if you guys can pin something down for me, the new model 3 targets seem to be a little more reasonably priced than any of the 44. Can you shoot 38 S&W (not special obviously) in the 38-44? Or 32 Long or Short in the 32-44? I know you can’t get the original loadings anymore. Thanks

Yes the 38 S&W will fit and function in the original 38/44 target but that's no fun! Match load very close to original using .357 mag shells or .357 maximum shells cut to correct length and original black powder loads using various .360 lead bullets or hollow based wadcutter in .358 I have found to be extremely accurate.

The 32-44 requires that you make the brass out of 32-20 brass cases and size to fit. Using original .323 diameter pure lead bullets. This is a custom job. Watch the post on the 32-44. I plan on shooting this custom round very soon and posting results.

Follow several threads regarding the 32-44 already posted previously..

BTW, Where exactly are you finding "cheaper" New Model 3 target Smith & Wessons?


Murph

You can chamber and fire .38 S & W in a .38 - 44 New Model 3 Target, but there would be a long nasty unsupported "Bullet Jump" allowing massive blow by, probable leading, and serious loss of any accuracy.

The .38 - 44 Cartridge, while being the same diameter as .38 S & W, is a lot longer, and the Cartridge Case is actually the length of the Cylinder ( at least on the earlier 'short' Cylinder examples ) and their Bullets fit entirely inside the Case.

I would not do it.

The .32 - 44 was a much larger diameter Bullet than .32 S&W or .32 S&W Long, and the Cartridge Case is a larger diameter also.

I believe the operative word is "CAN" this be done. The answer is yes - with a decrease in accuracy.

Reminds me of a story told by my Father told about an heirloom .32 RF, S&W Army (Model 2) revolver. As a youngster, he would place .22 RF ammo along the outer edge of the cylinder and stuff paper in the cylinder to hold the rounds in place. They would go BANG; but he never knew where the bullet went. Kids are easily amused.

__________________
Mike Maher #283

I’m not sure honestly.
When you think about it the 38 S&W basically represents a “short” when compared to the 38-44. Same bullet in fact!
Sort of like shooting a 22 short in a 22 Long cylinder or even a 38 special in a 357 Mag cylinder.

Sounds like another range challenge to me. I’ll put it on my list.
In fact I will load some 38 S&W rounds in full black powder and try them in comparison to my full loads already loaded. So we’ll see.

Murph

So long as it is a .361-ish Bullet, one ought to be good to go, so long as we are only talking about the Bullet itself, anyway..!

No...

.22 Short, .22 Long Rifle, these are heeled, outside Lube Bullets, and in a Revolver, the Cylinder is bored straight through, no 'step'. The Bullets are the same diameter as the Cartridge Case.

.38 S & W is an inside Lube Bullet, and Cylinders meant for it, have the 'step' between Cylinder Chamber, and, Cylinder Bore.

.38 S & W, .38 - 44, the Bullets are the diameter of the inside of the Cartridge Case, being then that much smaller than the outside diameter of the Cartridge case.

Revolvers meant for Outside Lube, 'Heeled' Bullets, where the Bullet is same diameter as the cartridge Case is, their Cylinders are bored "Straight Through" and no problem to fire 'short', 'medium' or 'long' Cartridges, since the Cylinder Bore and Bullet Diameter ( at least in theory ) are the same, so there is no Bullet Jump or remarkable 'Blow By' of Gasses.



In the .38 - 44, the Cylinder has only the Chamber, no Bore...and, the 'full length' Cartridge Case itself, assumes the role of Cylinder Bore.

Your .38 - 44 Cylinder Bores are likely about .384 ID...a usual .38 S&W Bullet tends to be about .360...some may be .361...off the shelf ones any more are likely .358.

Assuming your .38 S & W Bullets are say, .360, then this leaves about .024 of an inch play for some really nasty Blow-By of Gasses, tilting of the Bullet, and the Bullet having no support for it's travel from the end of the short .38 S&W Cartridge Case, on to leaving the Cylinder.

You would get a "Bang", but all else would be a mess, and you will be inviting Leading as well as terrible accuracy.

Revolvers intended for outside Lube Cartridges ( which can then do fine with short, medium or long Cartridges, when such exist for them, and when their Cylinder lengths can accept the longer ones ) are a different Balllgame from those meant for inside Lube..!

Well thanks everybody for the advice. Seems like another project. I usually see them go for less money then their 44 counterparts. I look all over gunbroker gunsinternational and individual shops. They still aren’t cheap but I’ve seen a couple go for 1500 Give or take where the 44s seem to start at 2k+. Sounds like it might be better just to cough up a little extra and get a 44. Although I liked the idea of shooting 32 Long out of a model 3, it seems it’s ill advised.

It's less expensive because of the ammunition being a little odd and not generally available. The good news is these guns can be used if you take the initiative to buy period casting and reloading tools. It's not all that hard and might even be fun.