Smith & Wesson Forum

Go Back   Smith & Wesson Forum > >

Notices

S&W Antiques S&W Lever Action Pistols, Tip-Up Revolvers, Top-Break Revolvers, and ALL Single Shots


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 10-19-2020, 06:42 PM
wpboatr wpboatr is offline
Member
New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems!  
Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 5
Likes: 16
Liked 3 Times in 1 Post
Default New Model #3 Disassembly Problems!

Trying to disassemble my New Model #3 is giving me worry and angst! I can unscrew the hinge screw on the left side just fine. However the pin on the other side wonít come out. Iíve tried tapping thru from the left side using a punch but it wonít budge and I donít wanna damage anything. Is there some special trick to removing the barrel/frame hinge pin?
Thanks! Wyatt
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 10-19-2020, 06:46 PM
Wiregrassguy's Avatar
Wiregrassguy Wiregrassguy is online now
SWCA Member
New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems!  
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Ashford, AL
Posts: 4,969
Likes: 20,682
Liked 5,657 Times in 2,095 Posts
Default

Welcome to the forums from the Wiregrass! You might want to PM model3SW or RCT269. They might be able to tell you something quickly. I have some reference materials that I could go through and see if I can answer your question if you can't get one quickly.

Guy
__________________
Guy
SWHF #474 SWCA #2629
Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Like Post:
  #3  
Old 10-19-2020, 06:58 PM
deadin's Avatar
deadin deadin is offline
US Veteran
New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems!  
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Ocean Shores, WA, USA
Posts: 5,308
Likes: 165
Liked 4,124 Times in 1,453 Posts
Default

Soak it with Kroil (or other penetrating oil of your choice) Give it a couple of days to work, then back off the slotted screw about a half to a full turn, lay the frame on a piece of hardwood with a hole in it that will clear the stud. Take another piece of hard wood , lay it on the screwhead that is protruding and whack it with a hammer.


Never has failed for me.......
__________________
Dean
SWCA #680 SWHF #446
Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Like Post:
  #4  
Old 10-19-2020, 07:22 PM
rct269 rct269 is offline
SWCA Member
New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems!  
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Pikeville, Tennessee
Posts: 3,847
Likes: 260
Liked 5,202 Times in 2,066 Posts
Default

I can't tell you something quickly because I tend to run my mouth just for something to do in my spare time.

First of all, I know of no special trick.

My gunsmith would tell you "It's amazing what a little heat will do."-----after he got it out in about 5 minutes----for $25. I don't know how much heat---also don't know where.

That's pretty much the end of what I don't know.

My first inclination would be to very certainly support the hinge area surrounding the joint pivot (as well as the rest of the gun), and no more tapping---smack it one.(!!) It's either moved or it hasn't. Assuming it hasn't, I'm going to submerge the gun in whatever your favorite penetrating solution is, and go play with my children's mother.

I'm going to leave it submerged for at least three times as long as I think it's necessary, and smack it again.

My favorite solution is Kroil. A lot of folks in this hive are fond of a brew I've never tried---a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone (Don't be breathing the fumes!!)

Patience is a virtue.

Ralph Tremaine

And Dean's suggestion above is certainly viable---as long as you have a spare joint pivot and joint pivot screw.

Last edited by rct269; 10-19-2020 at 07:28 PM.
Reply With Quote
The Following 3 Users Like Post:
  #5  
Old 10-19-2020, 08:13 PM
rct269 rct269 is offline
SWCA Member
New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems!  
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Pikeville, Tennessee
Posts: 3,847
Likes: 260
Liked 5,202 Times in 2,066 Posts
Default

And as an aside, good on you for using a punch---just so long as it was a brass punch---and not a steel punch.

Ralph Tremaine
Reply With Quote
The Following User Likes This Post:
  #6  
Old 10-19-2020, 08:19 PM
deadin's Avatar
deadin deadin is offline
US Veteran
New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems!  
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Ocean Shores, WA, USA
Posts: 5,308
Likes: 165
Liked 4,124 Times in 1,453 Posts
Default

Quote:
as long as you have a spare joint pivot and joint pivot screw.
Haven't bent or stripped one yet and I've used this method for at least 50 or 60 years.......


Heat always makes me nervous, especially if there is a nice finish involved. Usually these jammed hinge pins are the result of someone not aligning the witness marks on the stud/frame when reassembling.
__________________
Dean
SWCA #680 SWHF #446
Reply With Quote
The Following User Likes This Post:
  #7  
Old 10-19-2020, 10:45 PM
mmaher94087 mmaher94087 is offline
SWCA Member
New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems!  
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Arizona
Posts: 2,654
Likes: 4
Liked 1,498 Times in 840 Posts
Default

I use the whack-a-mole process too and I'm a fan of Ed's Red (50/50 acetone and ATF). As stated; only back the joint pivot screw out 1/2 - 2/3 turn as this minimizes bending or stripping the screw.
__________________
Mike Maher #283
Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Like Post:
  #8  
Old 10-19-2020, 10:49 PM
opoefc opoefc is offline
US Veteran
New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems!  
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Southern California, USA
Posts: 9,737
Likes: 2,544
Liked 5,260 Times in 2,231 Posts
Default

I'm assuming you have a valid reason for wanting to disassemble your Model 3 and , if so, I vote for Dean's method as that has always worked for me, however heat can work if carefully applied . When you put the gun back together be sure that witness mark is aligned correctly. Ed
Reply With Quote
The Following User Likes This Post:
  #9  
Old 10-20-2020, 09:17 AM
glowe's Avatar
glowe glowe is offline
US Veteran

New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems!  
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Michigan Western UP
Posts: 9,965
Likes: 1,363
Liked 7,665 Times in 3,430 Posts
Default

They often don't fall right out and after 140 years may need some soak time with penetrating oil. My method is to take a piece of pine and drill a hole in it bigger than the hinge pin head. After soaking, lay the gun over the hole and back out the screw just a bit, leaving most of the threads in the hinge pin. Give it one good tap with a proper fit screwdriver fit into the slot and check for movement. Then back out the screw a little more and tap it again. Should be enough to remove just about any hinge pin. I find that a flat punch can deform the head of the screw and close up the slot, so the screwdriver works best for me.
__________________
Gary
SWCA 2515
Reply With Quote
The Following User Likes This Post:
  #10  
Old 10-20-2020, 10:22 AM
gmborkovic gmborkovic is offline
SWCA Member
New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems!  
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: VA & SoFL
Posts: 6,087
Likes: 290
Liked 3,539 Times in 2,040 Posts
Default

Just be careful with the grips. Better yet, remove grips and place in a safe
place.
__________________
Mike 2796
SoFo Bunch member
Reply With Quote
The Following User Likes This Post:
  #11  
Old 10-21-2020, 12:33 AM
Oyeboteb Oyeboteb is offline
SWCA Member
New Model #3 Disassembly Problems!  
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,318
Likes: 1
Liked 545 Times in 270 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wpboatr View Post
Trying to disassemble my New Model #3 is giving me worry and angst! I can unscrew the hinge screw on the left side just fine. However the pin on the other side wonít come out. Iíve tried tapping thru from the left side using a punch but it wonít budge and I donít wanna damage anything. Is there some special trick to removing the barrel/frame hinge pin?
Thanks! Wyatt
Why are you dis-assembling it?

Last edited by Oyeboteb; 10-21-2020 at 12:34 AM.
Reply With Quote
The Following User Likes This Post:
  #12  
Old 10-22-2020, 02:40 PM
wpboatr wpboatr is offline
Member
New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems!  
Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 5
Likes: 16
Liked 3 Times in 1 Post
Default

Oyeboteb and opoefc , I’m disassembling it because
1. I want to give it a good cleaning
2. I intend to fire it with blackpowder loads and want to make sure I’ll be able to disassemble it afterwards!

All, good suggestions on the Kroil (never heard of that) and the “Dean” method! I actually considered something like that but hoped I could get a hold of an alternate longer screw with identical Shaft and thread dimensions!
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 10-22-2020, 07:32 PM
Oyeboteb Oyeboteb is offline
SWCA Member
New Model #3 Disassembly Problems!  
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,318
Likes: 1
Liked 545 Times in 270 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wpboatr View Post
Oyeboteb and opoefc , Iím disassembling it because
1. I want to give it a good cleaning
2. I intend to fire it with blackpowder loads and want to make sure Iíll be able to disassemble it afterwards!

All, good suggestions on the Kroil (never heard of that) and the ďDeanĒ method! I actually considered something like that but hoped I could get a hold of an alternate longer screw with identical Shaft and thread dimensions!
There is no need to ever dis-assemble the Revolver, let alone to do so so such extremes, merely with firing Black powder loads.

The most one would ever do is to just remove the Cylinder, then warm Soapy Water and a Nylon Bore Brush through the Barrel Bore and through the Cylinder Chambers/Bores. dry with a hand-held hair Drier with the Revolver propped on a rumpled Towel.

Use right lube ( Beeswax wafer between Bullet and Powder ) for the Bullet, and with any good grade of BP, the Revolver will stay cleaner than Modern Revolvers do with 'Unique'.

I've fired thousands of rounds of 3F with no cleaning at all, and I have no fouling, no Cylinder binding, and no trace of anything to even suggest the Revolver is dirty.

There is no need to ever do what you are doing.

Even the worst grades of BP ( like 'Goex' ) will never make for fouling which would get in to the Rule-Joint of the Frame.

Last edited by Oyeboteb; 10-22-2020 at 07:48 PM.
Reply With Quote
The Following User Likes This Post:
  #14  
Old 10-22-2020, 11:53 PM
mmaher94087 mmaher94087 is offline
SWCA Member
New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems!  
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Arizona
Posts: 2,654
Likes: 4
Liked 1,498 Times in 840 Posts
Default

".. but hoped I could get a hold of an alternate longer screw with identical Shaft and thread dimensions!". S&W has proprietary threads. Unless you find another S&W screw with longer threads for your project, I'm afraid you are out of luck.
__________________
Mike Maher #283
Reply With Quote
The Following User Likes This Post:
  #15  
Old 10-23-2020, 03:00 PM
wpboatr wpboatr is offline
Member
New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems!  
Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 5
Likes: 16
Liked 3 Times in 1 Post
Default

Good to know about S&Ws proprietary threading!
I like the tip on using a hair dryer. I've always used an oven but I think I'll try the hair dryer method as I like the idea of that.

Also good to know I can remove the cylinder without removing the barrel assembly; however... how do you do that? Even with the top latch assembly removed the cylinder does not come off. I thought the barrel needed to come off in order to free the cylinder.
I guess I'm missing something. Can you help with that too?
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 10-23-2020, 03:26 PM
Wiregrassguy's Avatar
Wiregrassguy Wiregrassguy is online now
SWCA Member
New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems!  
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Ashford, AL
Posts: 4,969
Likes: 20,682
Liked 5,657 Times in 2,095 Posts
Default

WPboatr, the cylinder is kept from being pulled off the center pin by a flat plate with a lip found under the latch. The lip is pointing downward and serves as a stop when the cylinder moves backward. On the top strap of the gun just in front of the latch is either a round head screw or a knurled knob depending on which issue of the #3 you have. That has to be loosened to let the cylinder catch move upward to allow the cylinder to clear. You can see it from this picture of my Russian #3, 3rd Model.


__________________
Guy
SWHF #474 SWCA #2629
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 10-23-2020, 03:48 PM
model3sw's Avatar
model3sw model3sw is offline
SWCA Member
New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems!  
Join Date: May 2006
Location: South Florida, USA
Posts: 3,573
Likes: 7,948
Liked 4,623 Times in 1,599 Posts
Default

Hi, Wyatt.

Anyway ... use a good penetrate oil, let it soak in. Then, remove the joint screw with the barrel snapped closed.

Put the screw back in, appx. 2 turns then tap the head of the screw gently with either a plastic tip "gear hammer" or a brass hammer, very carefully. Just enough that it is raised from the threaded pin. Too high and you'll likely blow the 120+ year old threaded parts.

Once it lets loose from the part it is stuck to ... finish removing the screw, then it should come right out.

Well that is if no one tampered with it. I've seen heads of some screws that broke off, put back on with crazy glue just for the cosmetic affect to make it look like it's OK.

While yours is just likely stuck from age and crud ... it happens.

Remember "gently" If you want to lightly clamp it in a vise I would recommend you either use hard nylon / plastic jaws (more like a jewelry vise) or a HEAVY piece of leather to line the jaws of the vise if the jaws are serrated as most normal, mechanics' type vises.

Heavy leather ... I'm talking about a piece of an old thick belt or what I use are the leather interior seat covers / hides from cars that I had replaced the leather sometime in the past. I keep a few skins around to use for this and many other devices. They come in handy.

Best Regards, Sal Raimondi, Sr.

Many years ago, I had a special tap and die custom made for the sideplate screws. It was expensive back then but worth every penny as the screws on a Model 3 are not any SAE or other type standard thread. I don't recall if the hinge screw and threads are identical thread and pitch as the sideplate screws however, IIRC, they are not perfectly identical.
__________________
ANTIQUESMITHS
LM1300 SWHF425

Last edited by model3sw; 10-23-2020 at 03:56 PM.
Reply With Quote
The Following User Likes This Post:
  #18  
Old 10-23-2020, 05:10 PM
wpboatr wpboatr is offline
Member
New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems!  
Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 5
Likes: 16
Liked 3 Times in 1 Post
Default

Hey there again Guy! That's kind of what I thought and I actually completely removed the latch assembly but the cylinder still 'bumps' against something or is otherwise blocked by something else from being removed. Maybe it has to do with the model type I have (I'm pretty sure it's around a turn of century release). I would attach a picture but I can't figure out how; however the latch is actually completely removed.
Thanks! Wyatt
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 10-23-2020, 08:06 PM
ChoochContrino's Avatar
ChoochContrino ChoochContrino is offline
Member
New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems!  
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1
Likes: 1
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wpboatr View Post
Hey there again Guy! That's kind of what I thought and I actually completely removed the latch assembly but the cylinder still 'bumps' against something or is otherwise blocked by something else from being removed. Maybe it has to do with the model type I have (I'm pretty sure it's around a turn of century release). I would attach a picture but I can't figure out how; however the latch is actually completely removed.
Thanks! Wyatt
OP, be careful if you take the extractor cam out. Itís a three piece assembly with one of the pieces being a very small flat spring, maybe 5/16Ē long x 0.0625 wide. This spring holds the latch in the cam. If you want to see similar top-break revolvers completely disassembled visit my Instagram page for several S&W revolvers documented through the cleaning process. The page is @maryland_cerakote on Instagram. I frequently work on many revolvers and show the parts laid out. Iím not selling anything, just trying to help, Iím not looking for work. My webpage photos also update off of Instagram if you donít have an Instagram account. MarylandCerakote.com but Instagram would be better. Be careful, as others have discussed, these parts are old and hard to get. Even if you can get them they are not plug and play.

Chooch
__________________
Maryland Cerakote & Gun Works
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 10-23-2020, 09:25 PM
Wiregrassguy's Avatar
Wiregrassguy Wiregrassguy is online now
SWCA Member
New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems!  
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Ashford, AL
Posts: 4,969
Likes: 20,682
Liked 5,657 Times in 2,095 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wpboatr View Post
Hey there again Guy! That's kind of what I thought and I actually completely removed the latch assembly but the cylinder still 'bumps' against something or is otherwise blocked by something else from being removed. Maybe it has to do with the model type I have (I'm pretty sure it's around a turn of century release). I would attach a picture but I can't figure out how; however the latch is actually completely removed.
Thanks! Wyatt

Wyatt, try this. Reassemble the latch. Loosen the cylinder catch so the lip is above the rim of the cylinder. With the barrel pointed down to close the ejector star, lift the latch up like you are unlatching the barrel and hold it up. Grasp the cylinder and turn it to the left (right hand threads) to unscrew it from the center pin. Reverse to reinstall.
__________________
Guy
SWHF #474 SWCA #2629

Last edited by Wiregrassguy; 10-23-2020 at 09:27 PM.
Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Like Post:
  #21  
Old 10-23-2020, 10:47 PM
Oyeboteb Oyeboteb is offline
SWCA Member
New Model #3 Disassembly Problems!  
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,318
Likes: 1
Liked 545 Times in 270 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wiregrassguy View Post
WPboatr, the cylinder is kept from being pulled off the center pin by a flat plate with a lip found under the latch. The lip is pointing downward and serves as a stop when the cylinder moves backward. On the top strap of the gun just in front of the latch is either a round head screw or a knurled knob depending on which issue of the #3 you have. That has to be loosened to let the cylinder catch move upward to allow the cylinder to clear. You can see it from this picture of my Russian #3, 3rd Model.


Hi Wiregrassguy,


I am pretty sure OP said he has a 'New Model 3', not a 'Model 3'...and, if so, then it's a different Ballgame with Cylinder removal for these two!

NM3, just lift the Latch and out she comes! Much easier..!

Last edited by Oyeboteb; 10-23-2020 at 11:05 PM.
Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Like Post:
  #22  
Old 10-23-2020, 10:51 PM
Oyeboteb Oyeboteb is offline
SWCA Member
New Model #3 Disassembly Problems!  
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,318
Likes: 1
Liked 545 Times in 270 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wpboatr View Post
Hey there again Guy! That's kind of what I thought and I actually completely removed the latch assembly but the cylinder still 'bumps' against something or is otherwise blocked by something else from being removed. Maybe it has to do with the model type I have (I'm pretty sure it's around a turn of century release). I would attach a picture but I can't figure out how; however the latch is actually completely removed.
Thanks! Wyatt
To remove the Cylinder on a 'New Model 3', all one needs to do, all one does do, is to have the Revolver open, lift the Latch up, and then the Cylinder unscrews from it's Axel-Stem and comes off, comes out.

Nothing needs to be taken apart, no screws are involved...no Tools are needed.

"Model 3" was a different Revolver from the 'New Model 3'.

Viz:

Hosted on Fotki


Hosted on Fotki


Hosted on Fotki

Last edited by Oyeboteb; 10-23-2020 at 11:03 PM.
Reply With Quote
The Following User Likes This Post:
  #23  
Old 10-23-2020, 11:45 PM
mmaher94087 mmaher94087 is offline
SWCA Member
New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems!  
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Arizona
Posts: 2,654
Likes: 4
Liked 1,498 Times in 840 Posts
Default

"To remove the Cylinder on a 'New Model 3', all one needs to do, all one does do, is to have the Revolver open, lift the Latch up, and then the Cylinder unscrews from it's Axel-Stem and comes off, comes out."

Hold the latch up while lifting up on the cylinder and turn it counterclockwise. The threads are called interrupted threads which allows the cylinder to thread on to the "quill" and, due to the interrupted threads, spin freely when fully seated. The replacement is the same (hold the latch up) and screw the cylinder clockwise until it spins freely.
__________________
Mike Maher #283
Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Like Post:
  #24  
Old 10-25-2020, 04:06 PM
wpboatr wpboatr is offline
Member
New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems!  
Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 5
Likes: 16
Liked 3 Times in 1 Post
Default

Welp, that worked! This was my first venture into the S&W type top break revolvers (reproduction or original) All I had to do was lift up and hold the latch, then pull up gently on the cylinder as a rotated counter clockwise and it came right now. If I decide to keep trying to work at that hinge pin I'll try the trick with the kroil and see how that pans out!
Reply With Quote
The Following 3 Users Like Post:
  #25  
Old 10-25-2020, 04:07 PM
model3sw's Avatar
model3sw model3sw is offline
SWCA Member
New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems! New Model #3 Disassembly Problems!  
Join Date: May 2006
Location: South Florida, USA
Posts: 3,573
Likes: 7,948
Liked 4,623 Times in 1,599 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mmaher94087 View Post
"To remove the Cylinder on a 'New Model 3', all one needs to do, all one does do, is to have the Revolver open, lift the Latch up, and then the Cylinder unscrews from it's Axel-Stem and comes off, comes out."

Hold the latch up while lifting up on the cylinder and turn it counterclockwise. The threads are called interrupted threads which allows the cylinder to thread on to the "quill" and, due to the interrupted threads, spin freely when fully seated. The replacement is the same (hold the latch up) and screw the cylinder clockwise until it spins freely.
Wyatt,

In response to your PM to me, see Mike Maher above, describes it accurately. Thanks, Mike.

Remember hold the latch up high and hard or you'll make the dreaded "cork-screw"-like scratch damage in the side of the cylinder.

Best Regards, Sal
__________________
ANTIQUESMITHS
LM1300 SWHF425
Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Like Post:
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
M&P 9mm Disassembly Problems. Mick Small OAM S&W-Smithing 1 02-08-2017 09:24 PM
Model 442 Disassembly desertratr S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the Present 3 01-24-2015 07:42 PM
629-6 Disassembly Problems cgspapa S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the Present 8 06-29-2014 09:57 PM
BG380 disassembly problems Bane311 Smith & Wesson Semi-Auto Pistols 3 06-11-2011 01:36 PM
Disassembly of a Model 22-4 Armyphotog S&W Revolvers: 1980 to the Present 8 09-24-2010 06:07 PM

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3
smith-wessonforum.com tested by Norton Internet Security smith-wessonforum.com tested by McAfee Internet Security

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:22 AM.


Search Engine Optimisation provided by DragonByte SEO v2.0.42 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Smith-WessonForum.com is not affiliated with Smith & Wesson Holding Corporation (NASDAQ Global Select: SWHC)