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S&W Antiques S&W Lever Action Pistols, Tip-Up Revolvers, Top-Break Revolvers, and ALL Single Shots


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  #1  
Old 10-13-2021, 07:33 PM
Teddydog Teddydog is offline
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Brought home a .32 Top-Break Model "1 and 1/2" Brought home a .32 Top-Break Model "1 and 1/2" Brought home a .32 Top-Break Model "1 and 1/2" Brought home a .32 Top-Break Model "1 and 1/2" Brought home a .32 Top-Break Model "1 and 1/2"  
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Default Brought home a .32 Top-Break Model "1 and 1/2"

Broke a string of Colt purchases last week to bring home this .32 S&W Model 1 1/2 single action.





The finish is pretty good for a gun over 130 years old. The grips are in outstanding condition and are of the 2nd pattern described in the SCSW which fits for a SN of 27016.

Unfortunately the action is bound up. Though I can feel good spring pressure on the hammer, it will not draw all the way to full cock. I'm hoping it is something simply mis-installed and can be readily corrected. I have not yet attempted removing the side plate.

This is my third antique S&W currently, along with a DA .38 Top-Break and a Tip-Up .32 RF (I also previously owned a .44 Russian New Model #3).

Rob
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Old 10-13-2021, 08:11 PM
mmaher94087 mmaher94087 is offline
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Brought home a .32 Top-Break Model "1 and 1/2" Brought home a .32 Top-Break Model "1 and 1/2" Brought home a .32 Top-Break Model "1 and 1/2" Brought home a .32 Top-Break Model "1 and 1/2" Brought home a .32 Top-Break Model "1 and 1/2"  
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Before removing the side plate; many times the binding is the mainspring contacting the back of the hammer. This sometimes is caused by a prior owner backing out the strain screw or shortening it. Carefully remove the stocks and check the hammer to mainspring clearance. Try to tighten the strain screw. If the strain screw is tight and the mainspring contacts the rear of the hammer then MAYBE the spring has been replaced.
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Old 10-13-2021, 08:16 PM
Teddydog Teddydog is offline
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Brought home a .32 Top-Break Model "1 and 1/2" Brought home a .32 Top-Break Model "1 and 1/2" Brought home a .32 Top-Break Model "1 and 1/2" Brought home a .32 Top-Break Model "1 and 1/2" Brought home a .32 Top-Break Model "1 and 1/2"  
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Update: I removed the grips and sideplate and have the action partly sorted out. The hammer mainspring stirrup was hitting the spring connected to the trigger, preventing full hammer travel. I repositioned that and it allowed the hammer to have full movement.

NOW it will cock when the barrel is open, but will push off the sear with almost no pressure. When the barrel is latched closed, it will not cock because the cylinder stop is stuck in the upward, or locked, position.

What I suspect is the problem is that the trigger and bolt spring is installed incorrectly, leading to it being able to interfere with the stirrup and not putting proper pressure on the bolt and trigger. I need to remove the bottom plate to correct this, but unfortunately its screw doesn't want to move. I put some oil on it and will soak it for a while. If I can get that to move, I think I can correct the problem with the action.

Note that the mainspring was not contacting the hammer. Thanks for the suggestion.

Rob
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Old 10-13-2021, 10:36 PM
mmaher94087 mmaher94087 is offline
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Brought home a .32 Top-Break Model "1 and 1/2" Brought home a .32 Top-Break Model "1 and 1/2" Brought home a .32 Top-Break Model "1 and 1/2" Brought home a .32 Top-Break Model "1 and 1/2" Brought home a .32 Top-Break Model "1 and 1/2"  
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".. will not cock because the cylinder stop is stuck in the upward, or locked, position." Yup, the cylinder stop is preventing the hand from rotating the cylinder which locks up the revolver. Try taking out the cylinder (hold the barrel latch up when removing or installing) and see if the action functions in the SA mode. I suspect that the cylinder stop function may be your problem.
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Old 10-17-2021, 09:24 AM
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glowe glowe is offline
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Brought home a .32 Top-Break Model "1 and 1/2" Brought home a .32 Top-Break Model "1 and 1/2" Brought home a .32 Top-Break Model "1 and 1/2" Brought home a .32 Top-Break Model "1 and 1/2" Brought home a .32 Top-Break Model "1 and 1/2"  
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You probably know that the tip-up line used the term Model 1 1/2, so collectors and most S&W books name your revolver simply as a 32 Single Action, so as not to confuse the issue. That revolver was never named the Model 1 1/2 by the factory, but rather a New Model 32 No. 1 1/2.

Try to operate the mechanism with the barrel/cylinder open to eliminate that assembly as being the problem. If the action still sticks, it is best to disassemble the revolver, inspect all parts for wear or breakage before reassembly. If all is good, a reassembly may be all that is needed to put the gun back into proper function.
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Last edited by glowe; 10-17-2021 at 10:56 AM.
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Old 10-18-2021, 12:47 PM
Teddydog Teddydog is offline
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Brought home a .32 Top-Break Model "1 and 1/2" Brought home a .32 Top-Break Model "1 and 1/2" Brought home a .32 Top-Break Model "1 and 1/2" Brought home a .32 Top-Break Model "1 and 1/2" Brought home a .32 Top-Break Model "1 and 1/2"  
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As I indicated in my second post, the hammer fully cocks when the barrel is open and the cylinder is out of the way. That's also how I observed that the bolt is stuck in the locked position...doesn't move down as it should when the hammer is cocked.

Sounds like you guys agree with me that the revolver was assembled incorrectly when someone else had it open before. I just need to be able to remove the bottom plate screw so I can check out what is going on down there.

Thanks.

rob
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