s&w model 3

woden · #1 06-23-2022, 12:02 PM

Hey guys, had rescue this piece, but it has 2 screws stuck and very damage (was lucky that side plate was not damage at all), mechanically is in very good condition, but finished is very bad shape, was able to dissemble and took years and years of dirt of it. Has mother pearl grips age yellowed

Now, have few questions that will like to address

1.- is model 3 American or Russian? because grip shape and top break does not look like Russian, but trigger housing looks like

2.- how to remove those screws without damage it

3.- is worth all the headache to replace those screws?, of course will not match on the finished but at least won't be damage at all

Please share ur thoughts on this

Thx and Regards

glowe · #2 06-23-2022, 02:41 PM

That is called a New Model 3 made from 1878 to 1912, in serial number range 1 to 35,796. There are many examples of this revolver with the a spur trigger guard. That guard was originally made for the Model 3 Russian revolver, but believe that they fit this frame as well. This model was made in many calibers, with 44 Russian being most plentiful.

Damaged screws are often next to impossible to remove, but you should follow this procedure before drilling them out. Take a mixture of acetone and Automatic Transmission Fluid and soak the gun for a week. Try the screws. If they do not turn, some will soak it more, but I feel that process gives diminishing returns. I have had luck with the use of diamond dust. Using a good quality screwdriver, dip it in contact cement and remove excess. Roll it in diamond dust and try the screws again. You can increase the grip significantly using this process, but maybe still not enough. Last option that has worked for me is laying a soldering iron on the screw head. Heat it up until the ATF starts to smoke and try removing the screw. Sometimes putting the frame in a frezzer will break the bond between the frame and screw. If nothing works, your best bet is to drill out the screw head. There are several options to remoce the threaded section, none of them foolproof. There are taps out there for these screws but hard to find. Replacement screws are sometimes hard to find as well. The gun is not in that bad condition with the images you show and the NM3 has some value in the market so your work would be the right thing to do if you can do it. Obviously, a skilled machinist can help you out, but the cost will go up substantially. What is the caliber? Can you measure the cylinder length? Depending on length, we can narrow down the age and maybe even caliber. Photographing the chambers will help also. Lastly, maybe the most important is giving us the serial number. Good luck.

woden · #3 06-23-2022, 03:23 PM

Thank a lot for all those tips, 11566 is the sn, yes found that also at Jim's catalog, now, the brass on the pics is 44 spl deprimed and resized, don't have a caliper handy to give u an exact mesure on the chambers, will see if can get one

Thanks in advance

glowe · #4 06-23-2022, 04:30 PM

The 44 Russian cylinder was 1 7/16" long and the 44 Winchester Frontier cylinder was 1 9/16" long. Both had their own serial number range, so if 44 Russian, it would have shipped around 1880. If you have a 44 Winchester (44-40) that revolver would have shipped around 1887-1888. Look for two rings in the chamber if a long cylinder and only one ring for the 44 Russian.

woden · #5 06-23-2022, 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by glowe

The 44 Russian cylinder was 1 7/16" long and the 44 Winchester Frontier cylinder was 1 9/16" long. Both had their own serial number range, so if 44 Russian, it would have shipped around 1880. If you have a 44 Winchester (44-40) that revolver would have shipped around 1887-1888. Look for two rings in the chamber if a long cylinder and only one ring for the 44 Russian.

Awesome information Glowe, let me get my hands on a caliper and will share here

Cheers
~W

woden · #6 06-23-2022, 05:50 PM

Got a cheap caliper, and looks like is Russian, am I right ?

Tnx in advance
Regards
~W

mmaher94087 · #7 06-23-2022, 09:00 PM

Gary's advice is spot-on. ATF and Acetone in a 50/50 mix makes a great penetrating oil. Mix it and put it in an aluminum turkey roasting pan and seal the lid. Keep it outdoor as it is very flammable.

Before you drill out the screw(s), support the revolver frame, place a well-fitting hollow ground screwdriver in the slot and whack it with a mallet. The shock of the hit will also help break the bond and loosen the screw. S&W screws are proprietary (oddball) threads that are not available through normal channels and usually need to be custom made so preserve them if possible.

iby · #8 06-23-2022, 11:13 PM

nice looking early NM 3
the t/G spur is uncommon.
Try to save the screws and have them rebuilt

woden · #9 06-24-2022, 10:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iby

nice looking early NM 3
the t/G spur is uncommon.
Try to save the screws and have them rebuilt

yes, that's my intention, transmission fluid and one was done, other one is lose, but slot is to damage, need to figure it out how

Thanks to all for all the tricks on this issue

Cheers
~W