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11-11-2009, 05:16 PM
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Hand Ejector 1896, First Model - Fresh Gun Porn 4 U
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11-11-2009, 07:25 PM
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Very cool! That top mounted cylinder stop is a show stopper! Somewhere in a magazine I think, I saw a training set up to teach how to install those shims in the cylinder notch's, it showed each step in the process, now that was old world craftsmanship! Thanks for shareing.
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11-11-2009, 07:27 PM
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Very nice pictures of their unique mechanics
Makes me want to go home and take some pics of my first year nickel '96!
Is that a Colt ejector rod tip?
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Chris
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11-11-2009, 07:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgt4570
Is that a Colt ejector rod tip?
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I think it's original S&W, but I'm not sure, and I originally figured it was a replacement.
There were two different styles of ejector rods -- one piece and two piece -- and I believe this is a one piece assembly. On close examination it appears to be part of the same component (as the ejector rod). Actually - does anyone know.
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11-11-2009, 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vulcan Bob
Somewhere in a magazine I think, I saw a training set up to teach how to install those shims in the cylinder notch's, it showed each step in the process, now that was old world craftsmanship!
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Well - they do include that in Jinks book Smith & Wesson: 1857-1945. They have demo cylinders from the factory that show all 6 steps in the process of peening in the shims. That's where I got the information I put in the post about 1896-1908.
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11-11-2009, 08:46 PM
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Now that's a real 5-screw!
Neat revolver.
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11-11-2009, 08:58 PM
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I need a bit of education. Since there isn't a cylinder release, and I don't see anything holding the extractor rod in place on the barrel, what is keeping the cylinder in place? How does it lockup and how do you open it?
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11-11-2009, 09:17 PM
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davidj:
Model 1896's are difficult to find in any condition. I'm lucky to see maybe one or two a year.
I have one just like yours, a 4-1/4" barrel. Mine is nickeled and has the black hard rubber extension grips. It factory lettered as being correct in all details. And believe it or not, mine was originally shipped to New York.
Pictures of my gun and facory letter are at this thread:
S&W 32 Hand Ejector 1st Model (Model 1896)
jsmith
Last edited by jsmith; 11-11-2009 at 09:19 PM.
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11-11-2009, 09:37 PM
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I have two of these that are also pictured in jsmiths thread listed above.
The earliest of the two (1896) also has the extra screw at the top of the sideplate. I don't think they made too many of them with that screw.
These are great guns. I feel fortunate to have the two I have.
They are rather uncommon.
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11-11-2009, 10:39 PM
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Man those first models are funky looking with the old style barrel and forward mounted front sight. Still way cool though! Some day I will find a short barrel shooter grade gun and grab it.
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11-11-2009, 11:00 PM
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Quote:
what is keeping the cylinder in place? How does it lockup and how do you open it?
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The cylinder is kept in place the same way a modern M&P is, via the cylinder pin. The difference is instead of pushing the cylinder pin out of engagement with the thumb latch, you pull it out of engagement by pulling forward on the ejector rod. The barrel lug wasn't added to Hand Ejectors until the M1902. The "pull forward" latch was also used on the 2nd and 3rd Model Ladysmiths.
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11-12-2009, 12:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 45Wheelgun
I need a bit of education. Since there isn't a cylinder release, and I don't see anything holding the extractor rod in place on the barrel, what is keeping the cylinder in place? How does it lockup and how do you open it?
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I guess that is really the third unique feature of the third model. The ejector rod and center pin are slightly different from a "modern" S&W revolver. Pulling on the front of the ejector rod pulls the center pin forward:
When the center pin is forward, it is no longer engaging the hole in the recoil shield. At that point, nothing is holding the cylinder in place and it can be pushed to the side. If you look in this picture you can see where the center pin has made a curved drag mark on the recoil shield from the action being opened:
The center pin is in the center of the rachet. It is spring-loaded and moves rearward as soon as the ejector rod is released:
The "collector" significance of the HE 1st Model is that it is the first S&W built with a solid frame, and from a developmental point of view it brings together the basic design components of a "modern" S&W revolver. When S&W brought out the second model, the added a thumbpiece cylinder release on the left side. But the only real difference was -- pushing this thumbpiece forward pushed the center pin forward, freeing the cylinder to open to the side. (So the center pin is now pushed from the rear instead of pulled from the front.) S&W then later began using an engagement for the forward end of the ejector rod. This required the center pin to move independent of the ejector rod, but the basic design was still the design that S&W first put forward in the 1st HE. (Pretty cool huh?)
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11-12-2009, 12:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsmith
I have one just like yours, a 4-1/4" barrel. Mine is nickeled and has the black hard rubber extension grips. It factory lettered as being correct in all details. And believe it or not, mine was originally shipped to New York.
Pictures of my gun and facory letter are at this thread:
S&W 32 Hand Ejector 1st Model (Model 1896)
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That is a very nice piece. I would love to have one in that nice of a condition. (It's also nice to have one that I can shoot guilt-free...)
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11-12-2009, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pontiaker
Man those first models are funky looking with the old style barrel and forward mounted front sight. Still way cool though! Some day I will find a short barrel shooter grade gun and grab it.
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Yeah I love my little 3 !/4 incher. I've actually never fired it for fear of hurting it with smokeless ammo. I'm probably being overly cautious though. I did fire a few rounds though my 4 1/4 incher without any ill effects. I'd love to see one done up as a snubnose. This gun would look great with a 2 inch tube. I like to know if S&W made any like this on special order. It would be a 1896 HE Bicycle gun..how cool would that be!
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11-12-2009, 01:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 45Wheelgun
I need a bit of education. Since there isn't a cylinder release, and I don't see anything holding the extractor rod in place on the barrel, what is keeping the cylinder in place? How does it lockup and how do you open it?
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You unlock them just like 2nd and 3rd model Ladysmiths - by pulling out on the ejector rod tip.
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Chris
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11-12-2009, 03:07 PM
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Model 1896
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Rush
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11-12-2009, 03:29 PM
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Brush,
Nice gun!
One thing to remember about these is the serial numbers alone do nothing to tell you the date of manufacture. One of mine has a 5 digit serial number and was shipped in 1896 (has the extra screw in the sideplate).
My other one has a 4 digit serial number and was shipped in 1901.
I have the Jinks letter for both revolvers. So the serial numbers are all over the place for these.
The only way to verify DOM is through a Roy Jinks letter.
Another interesting thing about these that wasn't mentioned above is that they have a cylinder hold open device. There is a spring inside the yoke somewhere that holds the cylinder open until you physically close it.
Last edited by twaits; 11-12-2009 at 03:34 PM.
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11-12-2009, 09:12 PM
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twaits:
Shooting modern smokeless powder in these guns will not hurt them. The .32 S&W Long cartridge has been a smokeless powder round for nearly it's entire existence. All the cartridges that were originally black powder loads are loaded to smokeless powder equivalents.
I shoot my Model 1896 with regular factory ammo and reloads. As long as you are not shooting any souped-up reloads, you shouldn't have anything to worry about. The .32 S&W rounds (shorts or longs) are not a very powerful cartridge.
jsmith
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11-13-2009, 02:05 PM
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Very interesting thread. Here is my 1st model. It was my Grandfathers, and I had it for several years before I realized what I had. It has had the ejector knob replaced, my dad lost it one time when he was cleaning it. I haven't shot it for years, but have several times with standard .32s. When I was a kid, about 12 or 13, whenever the folks would go to town, I would take it out and shoot it a couple times. I once shot a sparrow off my Dad's garage roof with it. I'm 70 now and know that was an extremely lucky shot in so many ways. The second shot shows it with three of my Grandmothers husbands pocket watches. She had 5 husbands and outlived them all. My Grandfather died in 1918 from the Spanish flu, at the ripe old age of 35.
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11-13-2009, 04:29 PM
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Wundudnee - Nice guns and history. With 5 Grandfathers I'm it looks like you were fortunate to wind up with the 1896 Model as well as the watches. Your Grandmother sounds like quite a gal.
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11-13-2009, 04:49 PM
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What a great thread! I love them early revolvers.
Rod
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11-13-2009, 10:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsmith
twaits:
Shooting modern smokeless powder in these guns will not hurt them. The .32 S&W Long cartridge has been a smokeless powder round for nearly it's entire existence. All the cartridges that were originally black powder loads are loaded to smokeless powder equivalents.
I shoot my Model 1896 with regular factory ammo and reloads. As long as you are not shooting any souped-up reloads, you shouldn't have anything to worry about. The .32 S&W rounds (shorts or longs) are not a very powerful cartridge.
jsmith
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Thanks for the info. I thought it would probably be ok to shoot them moderately. I know people talk about the different pressure curve of black powder vs smokeless but it seems like it wouldn't make too much difference in a cartridge such as .32 S&W or S&W Long. I wouldn't fire either of them much anyway.
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