I was given a 32 hand ejector. It has a 4 digit serial number of 65XX. From previous threads I see this to no younger than a 1905 build. The last patent listed on the barrel is 1902. The revolver has been stored in cosmoline for the last 25 years, so unless cosmo attacks nickel, then the damage to the finish must have happened earlier. Can any one give me the exact year of build and why does this model not have the 5th screw in the front of the triggerguard?
Is this gun safe to fire with modern 32 ammo. From it's condition I would think firing it could not hurt it any more unless it physically breaks. Every thing on it seems to function normal. There is a slight slop in cylinder rotation when the trigger is pulled and the cylinder gap appears to be wider than the gap on my modern smiths.

Attached Images

	32 HE 004.jpg (56.5 KB, 125 views)
	32 HE 003.jpg (71.8 KB, 156 views)
	32 HE 002.jpg (69.4 KB, 151 views)

I am sure you'll get more specific info from other posters but the top screw behind the cylinder on the right side plate is the "5th" screw. There may be a screw in the front aspect of the trigger guard, but I believe there were some models that didn't have that screw. Anyway, the pistol pictured would be considered a "5 screw." Someone correct me here if I am wrong.

The finish is hammered but those grips, if true pearl, look really good and may be worth the majority value of the pistol.

I am thinking this may be a .32 Hand ejector Model of 1903 or 2nd model.

Yes, if the gun is mechanically sound, it's perfectly safe with any modern off-the-shelf .32 S&W Long (or the older, shorter .32 S&W).

That would be consideded a pre-5 screw, 4-screw. The only way to get an exact date is from a factory letter. I have an early 4-digit (with factory target sights) that shipped in 1903. It's odd that your gun has a pinned front sight.

As to value, given the nickel loss, it isn't going to be highly collectable. They also made a ton of them. Those factory pearl grips are awesome, though. They are worth as much as the gun is. Probably in the $200-300 range (gun or grips) if sold separately.

__________________
Chris
SWCA #2243 SWHF #292

Bought a box of Mag tech .32 Long with 98 gr. lead round nose. At 10 feet it shoots 2-3" left of point of aim. Is there a way to adjust the sight? I was thinking about giving the front sight a slight bend as again this gun has not much numeric or sentimental value for me.

I have large hands and would like to get a set of of target grips for it . I found a possible replacement set on a site called gun grips for $30. Does anyone have any familiarity with them?

I have seen a couple of other threads about this model and mine also has the double main spring arrangement. I tried to get the sideplate off, but one screw is frozen and I did not want to bugger up the threads.

Thanks for the info. about the gun and I will probably give the Mother of Pearl grips back to the original owner as they have a value above what we thought it was worth. I will check with him to see if he wants to sell if any one is interested.

Cosmoline can cause pitting, if its left on too long. Something about
moisture either getting under it, or it has some in it. Either way, its a
well-known phenomenom, to find pitting under the stuff. Maybe that is what happened to this finish.

The gun is an early 4-screw, like before 1906. The fifth frame screw was introduced in about late 1905 - early 1906 . All the models of 1899 and 1902, in K-frame, are 4-screw frames.

Soak the frame in a good solvent, like Kroil, for a day or two, without
the grips. Then, with the gun squarely on a flat surface, and the proper
size screwdriver, put the blade in the screw and rap the screwdriver
sharply with a piece of wood. The shock should travel into the screw,
breaking up the rust. You can also try rotating the screwdriver a very
small amount, both ways, to break up the rust.

The pined front sight blade is a curiosity. Could be factory , in which case the gun becomes a bit more interesting.

Later, Mike Priwer

Mike,
Thanks for the help. The Kroil did the trick on the stuck screw. That's the first time I used Kroil for it's inteneded purpose, I usually mix a 50/50 blend of it and Hoppes for a bore cleaner that gets under lead and makes the barrels easier to clean.