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02-03-2010, 09:04 PM
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NIB pre model 37, Chief's Special Airweight value?
What would be the estimated value of a NIB pre model, Chiefs Special Airweight, with a square butt? Everythings there-except for the missing paperwork inside the original gun box. Serial number is 53xxx. This appears to be an late 1954 vintage? Was the upper side plate screw also eliminated in late 1954? Everything I've read shows 1955 for this to have occurred.
Hopefully, someone here can offer this information to me before my hold on this pre-37 is removed tomorrow afternoon? I'm strongly considering buying this revolver-but, I'd like to obtain this information first-since I'm not up to date on this early gun? It's certainly, pristine!
Last edited by bigun; 02-04-2010 at 03:11 AM.
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02-04-2010, 01:11 PM
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Maybe, I should have just asked how sought after a pristine Chiefs Special Airweight would be in terms of acquiring it only for the purpose of collecting, rather than as a "shooter"?
I'm surprised that none of the J-frame experts have come forward to reply to this thread? Based upon this, am I to assume that too many Chiefs Special Airweight revolvers were made, to make even the pre model 37's not very collectible-nor, valuable? I only wanted to get some idea of their value to know how much I should be spending to acquire this 1954 vintage C.S. Airweight? To be clear, despite liking this particular specimen, I wouldn't wish to acquire it if it's not that collectible. My intent would not be to shoot it!
Last edited by bigun; 02-04-2010 at 01:14 PM.
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02-04-2010, 01:39 PM
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I'm answering your question by not answering your question, with an example from a local shop. They had an S&W 37-no dash, no box or papers, and in reasonable shape, not new-looking, but some honest wear along the left side top strap, for $399.00. I passed on it in favor of a better-shape 36 (I do not have one of these yet) at $415, also no box nor papers, and the action felt very good. Just an example from the Northern NJ area... HTH...
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02-04-2010, 02:19 PM
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bigun:
I would say a truly NIB pre-37 would be in the neighborhood of $6-700, more if the original cylinder is an aluminum one. Here is the latter and I wouldn't take under a grand for it if I had to sell it.
Ed
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02-04-2010, 02:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NMPinNYC
I'm answering your question by not answering your question, with an example from a local shop. They had an S&W 37-no dash, no box or papers, and in reasonable shape, not new-looking, but some honest wear along the left side top strap, for $399.00. I passed on it in favor of a better-shape 36 (I do not have one of these yet) at $415, also no box nor papers, and the action felt very good. Just an example from the Northern NJ area... HTH...
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1)I appreciate your response! Thanks!
2)I've been unable to find any information on this forum as to the collectibility or the value of a NIB pre model numbered Chiefs Special Airweight? Hopefully, some collector's of these guns will come forward to clarify this more accurately? Now, I'm wondering if any of you collector's even have a NIB specimen like this in their collection-since I've only found photo's of 95% condition C.S. Airweight's?
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02-04-2010, 02:20 PM
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It the one you are looking at in a red or starburst box?
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02-04-2010, 02:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smith17
bigun:
I would say a truly NIB pre-37 would be in the neighborhood of $6-700, more if the original cylinder is an aluminum one. Here is the latter and I wouldn't take under a grand for it if I had to sell it.
Ed
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1)Well, I spoke up too soon! You've just presented a beautiful specimen for me to admire!
2)What is the significance of the red box compared to the blue boxes I've seen for some of the pictured Chief's Special Airweight's on this forum?
3)What is the vintage year of your C.S. Airweight?
4)Is the square butt rarer and/or any more valuable than the round butt C.S. Airweight's?
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02-04-2010, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smith17
It the one you are looking at in a red or starburst box?
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No, the C.S. Airweight I'm considering is in the blue Springfield box with the white label on the end-just like your gun-except, that it doesn't say "aluminum" and just says "Airweight".
Last edited by bigun; 02-04-2010 at 02:31 PM.
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02-04-2010, 06:44 PM
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I too love the Airweight snubs.
Bought a beautiful 3" M37 SB and a 2" M38 rb both w/ matching diamond grips & no box or docs for $350.00 each in the last few months.
The topic of these pieces worth comes up every so often.
Many collectors will pay a premium for an original aluminum cylinder gun especially with box and docs.
Reportedly any sent back for repair or inspection were returned with steel cylinders.
The laws of supply and demand take effect and a collector willing to pay the most will set what a gun is worth.
Shooting an aluminum cylinder gun might cost an arm and a leg but worse yet may cost an eye or a finger tip.
Just my .02 cents worth and more than you paid for it.
Last edited by Engine49guy; 02-06-2010 at 11:37 AM.
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02-04-2010, 06:45 PM
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bigun:
The gun I posted is early 1953. I am not sure there is a premium for a RB over a SB but I sure like the aesthetics of the round butt. The serial number you quoted is likely late '54 or early '55. By that time, they were shipping in the blue box with the 'sun rays' running from the top left to the bottom right. The 2 line address on the top of the box in the lower right corner can be horizontal or diagonal; I have seen both.
I think brother J.C. has some nice pics that he might add of his if he runs across this thread.
Email me if you want a pic of a sunray/starburst box. I pm'd you earlier with my address.
Ed
Last edited by smith17; 02-04-2010 at 06:47 PM.
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02-04-2010, 11:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smith17
bigun:
The gun I posted is early 1953. I am not sure there is a premium for a RB over a SB but I sure like the aesthetics of the round butt. The serial number you quoted is likely late '54 or early '55. By that time, they were shipping in the blue box with the 'sun rays' running from the top left to the bottom right. The 2 line address on the top of the box in the lower right corner can be horizontal or diagonal; I have seen both.
I think brother J.C. has some nice pics that he might add of his if he runs across this thread.
Email me if you want a pic of a sunray/starburst box. I pm'd you earlier with my address.
Ed
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smith17:
I just pm'd you since I couldn't reach you via your email address! Yes, I'd like to see a picture of the sunray/starburst box. Thanks! The gun I'm looking at must have fallen into the 1955 time frame whenever the upper sideplate screw was dropped-but, I'll have to check this gun out again in the morning to be sure? If this upper screw has been dropped-then, would the value of this gun take a dive? I know that in the SCSW the serial number for this gun was indicated to fall into late 1954. This is why I thought that this gun should have had the upper sideplate screw?
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02-04-2010, 11:43 PM
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Smith17, that is a nice 37 you got there. I love the old school, light weight snub's.
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02-05-2010, 11:45 AM
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2 versions of the starburst box.
Last edited by smith17; 02-05-2010 at 11:49 AM.
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02-05-2010, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smith17
2 versions of the starburst box.
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Smith17:
1)Thanks for the nice photo of the starburst boxes. The second box is the style that comes with the Airweight that I'm intending to purchase.
2)Did you receive any paperwork with your Airweight? If not-then, do you know what paperwork should have been included with these guns from the factory?
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02-05-2010, 04:27 PM
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The only paperwork that came with mine was a Helpful Hints brochure, plus the vapor paper.
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02-05-2010, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smith17
The only paperwork that came with mine was a Helpful Hints brochure, plus the vapor paper.
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1)Thanks!
2)I'd guess there'd probably be no chance to find a source for the original paperwork? Or, at least some photo's of what this paperwork looked like?
3)I went to inspect the Airweight I'm interested in more carefully today and I was correct, in that the gun has a square butt. I had read that the square butt Airweights were less common than the round butt Airweights. Also, there's not a mark or any other defects at all anywhere on this gun! Never fired either.
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02-05-2010, 06:36 PM
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Correct box?
Hey bigun
One thing to look for on this purchase is the serial number on the bottom of the box written in white grease pencil. Also the right grip panel should have the serial number stamped in the back side, probably in two lines. If all is correct with this package and it shows NO wear on the Al. frame. I would agree the price is $700+/- a little, as stated above!
This is an Airweight with the upper side plate "bug" screw.
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02-05-2010, 06:53 PM
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bigun:
If you buy it and post pics of it, I will send you a Helpful Hints brochure for it.
Ed
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02-06-2010, 04:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcelect
Hey bigun
One thing to look for on this purchase is the serial number on the bottom of the box written in white grease pencil. Also the right grip panel should have the serial number stamped in the back side, probably in two lines. If all is correct with this package and it shows NO wear on the Al. frame. I would agree the price is $700+/- a little, as stated above!
This is an Airweight with the upper side plate "bug" screw.
jcelect SWCA#LM723
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1)Thankyou very much for the helpful information-as well as for the great pictures of your sweet looking Airweight! I'll check for the serial number on the bottom of the box in the morning before I'll be confirming the deal on this gun?
2)I'm certain of zero wear on the gun at all-it's perfect!
3)I was hoping for the Airweight in question to have had the upper sideplate screw but, such was not the case. Of course, having the aluninum cylinder too, would have been icing on the cake!
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02-06-2010, 04:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smith17
bigun:
If you buy it and post pics of it, I will send you a Helpful Hints brochure for it.
Ed
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Well, I'll certainly appreciate receiving the Helpful Hints brochure-and, will post some pictures of my Airweight here too! Unfortunately, I'm no photographer-but, I'll do my best to post some worthy photos! Thankyou very much!
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02-06-2010, 04:25 PM
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Well, the serial number is written in white grease pencil, on the bottom of the box and the serial number is correct, and is stamped on the back side of the right grip panel. So, now it's a done deal! But, I gotta wait through a long 10 day waiting period before I can pick up this C.S. Airweight!
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08-03-2015, 10:38 AM
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question regarding this model
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcelect
Hey bigun
One thing to look for on this purchase is the serial number on the bottom of the box written in white grease pencil. Also the right grip panel should have the serial number stamped in the back side, probably in two lines. If all is correct with this package and it shows NO wear on the Al. frame. I would agree the price is $700+/- a little, as stated above!
This is an Airweight with the upper side plate "bug" screw.
jcelect SWCA#LM723
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Hi JCELECT, sorry for replying to this old post but I thought you might be able to help me. I own a revolver that is exactly the same as the one you pictured. It has the tiny screw on top of the larger one. I have never disassembled it and figured it is about time to give it a good maintenance so I would like to open the side plate and give it a good cleaning. How do you recommend I do it? Really appreciate your help
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08-03-2015, 04:10 PM
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disassembly!
Sir, I have never taken the side plate of a gun with the bug screw. However I would say it is the same as gun without the bug screw. Remove all the screw, using a tight fitting screw driver, then thump the grip frame on the side with a dead blow hammer or the plastic handle of a screw driver. DO NOT pry the side plate off! The side plate will pop off!
Good luck, jcelect
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08-03-2015, 04:56 PM
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I really wish all you guys intent on removing side plates, would go buy an old common Mod-10 and remove the side plate to your hearts content and study the function of all the internal parts.
If the line between the frame and side plate looks like a human hair, fight the urge. Just remove the grips and spray down in the hammer area and up in the trigger area. Shake and oil.
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08-03-2015, 09:40 PM
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Thanks for your replies jcelect and gmborkovic. I have a couple model 10's and no problem there opening up the side plates. The problem is with this particular model due to the bug screw and since there is not much literature on how to open them. In any case, I follow the recommendation of leaving as is since the line between the side plate and the frame does look like a fine hair. Mine is a 1955 model as I understand and wanted to check the internals.
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08-04-2015, 12:50 AM
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It would probably be wise to clean the internals of a 60-year-old revolver. The "bug screw" is merely a locking screw for the top side plate screw. Remove the "bug screw" and the top side plate screw unscrews just like ordinary. The rest of the removal and installation is exactly like a Model 10, just a bit smaller.
There is nothing special about removing the side plate from the alloy-frame models. Just remove the stocks, remove the screws with a properly-fitting screwdriver and strike the bare butt (!) frame sharply with a hammer handle or screwdriver handle until the side plate vibrates off.
When re-installing the side plate, begin by inserting the top end into the recess in the frame, being sure everything is lined up properly, and apply thumb pressure to seat the side plate into the frame as far as you can with thumb pressure. Try cycling the action to be sure the hammer block is properly located. If it cycles properly, finish forcing the side plate down with a few taps of a non-marring object (I use a soft-plastic-faced hammer), reinstall the side plate screws and you are done.
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08-04-2015, 11:22 PM
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Hey judgecolt!, thanks for the detailed instructions. After reading your post I went ahead and opened it up. The little screw was a bit tight but eventually I was able to turn it. No damage to the screws. I am glad I was able to as it was obvious it required some cleaning. Now it is pretty clean and feels a lot smoother. Ready for who knows how many more years
thanks again!
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