I have a .38 k-frame snub nose that is pre model 10. I wanted to replace the extractor rod (because the color didn't match it was nickel and the pistol was blued). I purchased the 2' rod from Brownells with no problem. No problem till I unscrewed the stock rod and the whole thing came out (center pin, screwed in rod and from looking at a diagram of the pistol I believe a spring). Should the original center pin unscrew from the extractor rod, or am I looking at a design change? Just as importantly if I contact Brownells to purchase the remaining parts, what in addition to the center pin do I need to purchase? (the diagram shows it as item 7 but I just don't see anything for sale as a 7). Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Regards, bib

Welcome to the forum. The center pin is not threaded and rides inside the extractor rod. Here is a photo of the parts I borrowed from the Smithing forum. Put the small spring on the short end of the rod, insert the extractor with star into the cylinder, put the rod with smallspring onto the open end of the extractor, place large spring over extractor inside cylinder, screw short knurled rod onto extractor, put whole assembly into yoke and attach to gun frame. Just as a caution the new rod may require fitting if too long.

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John. SWCA #1586

You say you have a pre model 10 which would have been made before 1957. In 1961 the factory changed the extractor rod from a right hand to a left hand thread. If you're having difficulty reassembling with the replacement from Brownells, you might check the thread.

Good luck,

Russ

The threads on your 'pre Model' are right-handed. In around 1961 S&W changed to left handed threads. I'm not sure that Brownell's would mention that detail....

Mark

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S&W Forum Member #721

Just to give everyone another opportunity to show everyone how little I know, then, the extractor rod is held in place to the center pin by friction? Thanks for the advice, and oh yeah patience. bib

The center pin is actually held in place by the raised 'ring' you can see in the photo posted by hsguy. When the thumb piece (cylinder latch) is pressed forward, the center pin is pushed foward to disengage it from the frame so the cylinder will open. The small spring in the photo is what holds the center pin in the rearward position so the center pin will engage in the hole in the frame to keep the cylinder in the closed position.

Hope this helps a little....

And of course, welcome to the forum.

Mark

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S&W Forum Member #721

I don't think there is hard and fast date as to right or left hand thread .I had a 686 shortly after they came out and the rod was right hand thread . Yes , it did back out and cause problems .

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Idaho , Elmer and Milt

I won't pretend to know the exact date, but it's a well known fact that that change came about in 1961. On K & N frames the model number followed by -1 is the clue. Incidentally, this was 20 years before the introduction of the L frame guns.

Mark

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S&W Forum Member #721