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S&W Hand Ejectors: 1896 to 1961 All 5-Screw & Vintage 4-Screw SWING-OUT Cylinder REVOLVERS, and the 35 Autos and 32 Autos


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  #1  
Old 04-25-2010, 01:55 PM
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Pook Pook is offline
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Default S&W .32 Auto

Hi all,

I just picked up one of the old Smith .32 autos, SN 5XX, in about 80 percent condition. Excellent bore and internals; no pitting, "freckling," or other corrosion; no scratches, dings, or gouges, just some bluing wear from handling. It is all original except for the right grip screw, but its patina matches the original on the left grip, so it could be an old replacement.

This gun has an odd design, which makes me think it was an attempt to get around some patent issue. Although the bore had been kept clean, after I took it apart I noticed the inside coated with old dirty oil and powder residue. This made me guess that whomever used it didn't know how to field strip it.

Although I know those of you who have these guns know how to take them apart, I thought I would explain how in case it could help someone.

1. Cock the hammer and remove the magazine (this gun does not have a magazine safety).

2. The slide has two pieces. On the left front of the piece with the serrated finger grooves is a wedge-like button; push it in and retract that part of the slide.

3. On top of the slide behind the rear sight is a small hole. Use a drift to push down the spring-loaded plunger; it releases the top part of the slide, which can be slid off the frame. Inside the top of that part of the slide is the recoil spring and guide; be careful that it doesn't drop out unnoticed (like what happened to me).

4. Lift the part of the slide with the finger grooves off the frame.

CAUTION: The ejector is a small part that sits on the left side of the frame. It is held in place by a spring-loaded plunger fastened to its end at the back of the frame. This part can easily fall out unnoticed (like what happened to me).

To Reassemble:

1. Set the spring and spring guide in the top of the slide. The guide rod goes against the front end of the slide (this simple task took me forever to figure out because I didn't pay attention when I removed the slide). When the pistol is assembled, the end of the guide rod goes through a ring-like eyelet above the chamber. It also trips the catch on the serrated piece of the slide to lock it when the slide goes in battery.

2. Place the serrated part of the slide on top of the frame.

3. Gently slide the top part of the slide, with the spring and guide rod, on to the frame. This can be tricky because of the way the slide fits to the frame. Slide it carefully toward the rear of the frame; if there is any resistance, stop because the either the spring is binding or the guide rod is not lining up with its eyelet on the frame. I thought this entire task was a real pain in the posterior; this gun doesn't have the same feel or touch for putting it back together as do many other semi autos.

4. When you can slide it easily toward the rear, stop and hold on to it when it comes in contact with the piece with the finger serrations. While holding the slide, push in the button on the serrated piece (the tab on top of the button aligns with a mating cut in the top part of the slide) and continue sliding the top piece to the rear. When it is against the spring-loaded plunger in the post on the rear of the frame, continue holding the slide, depress the plunger and slide to the rear until the plunger locks into the slide.

You are finished. wasn't that fun?

If you want to remove the grips, don't try to lift them off like those on other semiautos; you have to slide them off downward. The grips on this pistol are riveted to a metal retainer that slides into retaining grooves in the frame.

I hope this can be of use to somebody.

All the best,

Pook
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Old 05-15-2010, 12:44 PM
glenco941 glenco941 is offline
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Default Pook,where were ya??

Pook,last month I got a 32 auto for my collection,and I didn't have a clue about the dis-assembly .I posted two threads and got a few responses,but no help,so finally I called up S&W and explained my problem and they were so good as to put me in touch with Mr.Roy Jinks himself ,who read verbatim from the original manual basically what you have stated here. Maybe a little late,but appreciated just the same. Thanks and best regards ...gc
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Old 05-16-2012, 01:32 AM
rlee1976 rlee1976 is offline
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Default

Guys, please reply if you see this. The spring loaded plunger that I depressed to get the top part of the slide off did not spring back up after the slide passed over it, and hence now that I'm trying to reassemble the gun I obviously can't get it to pop back up and lock the slide back into place. What gives? Am I missing something here? To clarify, when I'm sliding the top part of my slide back into place, it meets no resistance at the plunger, because it's stuck in the down position, and also it won't lock into place because the plunger is in that down position. Aargh, please don't tell me it's because the plunger spring broke.
Ryan
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ejector, jinks, lock, s&w, serrated, serrations

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