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  #51  
Old 11-17-2010, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by EdwardM View Post
To search for one of these - especially a target version - on one of the online sites or here in the "For Sale" section should I simply search for "Hand Ejector" or is there a specific model designation to use?
The Model is .32-20 Hand Ejector, sometimes seen as M&P .32-20 or 1905 .32-20. You can search on any of those terms. Sometimes uninformed sellers who know they have a .32 caliber gun but don't understand frame sizes will call it a .32 Regulation Police, so look out for mislabeled revolvers as well.
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Old 11-17-2010, 07:12 PM
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Gatorbaiter, I knew I liked .32-20s, but I had no idea such variety was available for the collector. Those are spectacular guns.

The double-cylinder gun is pretty cool; and anything with a King Rib sight on it makes my heart beat faster.
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Old 11-17-2010, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Green Frog View Post
I recently traded into a pretty early 4th Change... a brown (formerly blue) 6" with OK original style (no SN visible) walnut, no medallion diamond grips. I assume it is pretty early because the SN (matching all over gun) is 758XX. I assume further that I have the pre-heat treated cylinder, hence my first question. Is this a safe revolver to use with FACTORY pistol ammo? I will be reloading very mild loads based on Unique and the classic 3118 Ideal bullet as brass accumulates.

Another line of questions; in view of the rather sad cosmetic state of the gun currently, is refinishing or perhaps even customizing a reasonable plan for this piece? If I DO go about rebuilding it, can I use standard K-frame parts from a similar vintage .38 such as a Victory? Also, could I rebore a pre-war .22 cylinder (if I can find one) for a .32 long S&W? I'm thinking WonderSights for my sight upgrade and then grips based on whatever finish I finally settle upon. What think ye??

TIA ~ Froggie
As long as you don't try to fire the .32-20 rounds that are loaded for use in rifles, you should be OK. If it's labeled for revolver use, or if you load to those pressures, you'll be fine.

In general, M1905 lockwork is M1905 lockwork regardless of whether the guns are .38s or .32-20s. But remember that some parts are carefully fitted to the gun in which they find themselves, so expect a little work if you start mixing parts. Maybe you can just drop in a hammer or DA sear, or maybe not. You never know until you try.

Not all K-frame cylinders are the same length, so I don't know how easy it would be to convert a .22 cylinder to .32. Remember that the .22 K-frame cylinders were all counterbored to surround the cartridge rim, whereas the centerfire chamberings of the day (.357 Magnum excluded) did NOT go into recessed charge holes. Some artistry might be involved in making one of those work. Perhaps there would be an option to sleeve a .38 cylinder? You'd need to fabricate a proper star, however.
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Old 11-17-2010, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Green Frog View Post
I recently traded into a pretty early 4th Change... a brown (formerly blue) 6" with OK original style (no SN visible) walnut, no medallion diamond grips. I assume it is pretty early because the SN (matching all over gun) is 758XX. I assume further that I have the pre-heat treated cylinder, hence my first question. Is this a safe revolver to use with FACTORY pistol ammo? I will be reloading very mild loads based on Unique and the classic 3118 Ideal bullet as brass accumulates.

Another line of questions; in view of the rather sad cosmetic state of the gun currently, is refinishing or perhaps even customizing a reasonable plan for this piece? If I DO go about rebuilding it, can I use standard K-frame parts from a similar vintage .38 such as a Victory? Also, could I rebore a pre-war .22 cylinder (if I can find one) for a .32 long S&W? I'm thinking WonderSights for my sight upgrade and then grips based on whatever finish I finally settle upon. What think ye??

TIA ~ Froggie
I would not worry about standard factory loads, just beware that some older ammunition was marked for rifle use only. Don't use that!

Depends on how much money you want to put into it. By the time you get done, you may have spent close to or as much as buying a target sighted gun in average to decent condition. Nothing wrong with refinishing a gun with little or no original finish left. But if you do, have it done properly; not the local guy. Standard K frame parts of same vintage will interchange.

Reboring should be fine but K frame 22's were introduced late and probably hard to find, but a post war cylinder would probably work. Can't think of any reason it wouldn't off hand, but don't know for sure. Try to compare your cyl with a post war K22. Look for both, 22 and 32.

Wonder sights leave me cold. Can you even find one? If you go to the trouble to reblue and refurbish, why not have S&W target sights installed?

Hope that helps,
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Old 11-17-2010, 07:40 PM
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David,

I see we almost overlapped our responses. Good idea about sleeving a 38 cyl; much easier to find. A 22 ejector star might be the one to reconfigure. I would retain the recessed rim feature if for no other reasons than it might be easier to find and he could readily tell the cylinders apart.

I was thinking a phone call to Chicoine could get him some great advice and suggestions:

oldwestgunsmith.com
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Old 11-18-2010, 05:30 PM
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Thanks Jim and David! I was thinking along the same lines as you, Jim, on the WonderSight. Although it is still available new (they even have a website!) I'm still not convinced it is the way to go. I thought about milling the top bar of the frame for a post-War K-type sight, but was a little worried about strength issues. There isn't but so much "meat" there, and I assume the frame, like the cylinder, is less thoroughly heat treated than later issues(?) I may experiment on an orphan .32 HE I-frame I have also mentioned here from time to time, see how that works out first, then progress to the .32-20.

In a perfect world I would find an affordable K-32 and have a late K-frame cylinder rebored to .32-20, but that would really run into some (unavailable levels of) shekels!

Neither of these projects is likely to be a carry gun to bet my life on, but for the fine pastime of "woods loafing" either of these should suit the bill nicely for engaging targets of opportunity. All for now, but again thanks for your input.

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Charlie, the Frog
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  #57  
Old 11-21-2010, 10:28 PM
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So tell me who the maker of this one is, At 1st glance I thought S&W then I said no Colt then I just gave up. came with 100 rounds of factory Remington ammo for $150.00

think its belgian or Spanish but not sure

Dan





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Old 11-21-2010, 10:56 PM
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Looks like an Eibar special, made in Spain. A friend of mine had one. The chambers were horrible. Fired cases looked terrible! Never got more than 2 reloadings out of them.
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Old 11-21-2010, 10:59 PM
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I've seen similar markings on Spanish revolvers. That's my bet, but I'm not certain.

There's a book out there on Spanish revolvers I've been meaning to get- just rarely see enough Spanish made S&W and Colt copies for sale, since usually they are of lesser quality gunshops around me will not put them out or refuse to trade for them. There are actually some that are fairly decent in quality, but they are less commonly encountered.

What's that quality of that one Dan?
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Old 11-22-2010, 12:57 AM
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Considering we've had some exceptionally beautiful and outstanding pieces in this thread, I figured I needed to add some beaters *I mean character* to keep it well rounded.

Here's a late .32-20 2nd model (#9687), *that does have a good bore*:








.32-20 1905 1st, with a pristine bore and lots of finish left, with what I think is attractive "toning" in the bluing:






Here is another .32-20 1905 1st (#29,999), and although nowhere as nice, it does have a decent bore:






.32-20 1905 2nd, with a decent bore, but lackluster finish:





Finally, .32-20 1905 3rd. that someone chromed :



Group photo (except 1902) with a .32-20 speedloader!




Also, Hamilton Bowen is making some longer cylinders that might be suitable for .32-20's for around $300. Too bad no one is making replacement barrels- there are far more pitted barrels encountered in .32-20 than nice ones.
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Old 11-27-2010, 08:38 PM
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Well, I'm late to this soiree but only because I needed to get a group shot of my three.



The 6.5 inch barrel 1905 was my first. It shipped to Salt Lake City in 1912 (the only one I've lettered to date). The blue 4 inch I found in Columbus, GA for a half a song, I knew it had been refinished but it was unbelievable inexpensive. It also wears an importer mark under the grips, guessing it probably went to Mexico and found its way back north. The nickel 4 inch is my most recent pick-up and is pretty clean. They all shoot great.
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Old 11-28-2010, 06:03 AM
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Just signed up recently.I really enjoyed the large assortment of 32-20 revolvers. Thank you very much for sharing. If you ever come across 32-20 ammunition marked high velocity do not fire it in your revolvers. Think its a 60 grain bullet loaded to approximately 2000fps. And when did S&W start heatreating the cylinders of those revolvers in 32-20 caliber. Thanks again, Frank
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Old 11-28-2010, 09:06 PM
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Just signed up recently.I really enjoyed the large assortment of 32-20 revolvers. Thank you very much for sharing. If you ever come across 32-20 ammunition marked high velocity do not fire it in your revolvers. Think its a 60 grain bullet loaded to approximately 2000fps. And when did S&W start heatreating the cylinders of those revolvers in 32-20 caliber. Thanks again, Frank
The 1917 45 ACPs had the 1st heat teated cylinders. Other models began in 1920.
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Old 11-28-2010, 09:35 PM
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The SCSW, 3rd Ed, states that heat treated cylinders in .32-20s started at SN 81287
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Old 11-29-2010, 07:43 AM
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I knew I never should have read this thread. The one in my post above is now mine less the MOP grips. Anyone have a good source of 32-20 ammo?
32-20 ammo is still available new. It should run around $45 per 50 rounds. We carry a box or 2 in our shop at all times and the wholesaler currently has 45 boxes in stock. Your local shop should be able to aquire it for you.
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Old 11-29-2010, 08:38 AM
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Saddly, I couldn't convince my buddy to sell this one to me, but I cleaned it up for him and helped keep it from going too far down the long slow deadly path of rust. It is a 4th change variation with serial number 996XX and a 5 inch barrel. In a way, not being able to get this one is saving me from having to add another cartridge to my reloading list, but they certainly do seem to be nice guns, maybe I will try to pick one up anyway.
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  #67  
Old 09-05-2011, 08:05 AM
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I can not believe I haven't found this site before. What a wealth of knowledge. I have this 32-20, serial number 505XX that was my fathers and his fathers before that. I do not know if my Grandfather bought it new but I guess from reading this thread, I could apply for a letter from S&W which may tell me. This is a fun shooting gun, and I am now able to reload for it so the fun will continue. My wife enjoys shooting it and I can load a minimum load which will make it even better. My only problem is that my old eyes are having a very hard time with the sights. I've seen some mention of Wondersights which may work but I would also entertain putting a Crimson Trace laser grip on it if they make one that would fit. Would this be considered a "K" frame? Has anyone already explored this possibility? Well thanks for all the info on these fine guns and I'm glad that there are others enjoying them as much as I.
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Old 09-05-2011, 09:03 AM
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My 4 inch also went to Salt Lake City in 1912, Western Arms Sporting Goods Store on October 14th.

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Well, I'm late to this soiree but only because I needed to get a group shot of my three.



The 6.5 inch barrel 1905 was my first. It shipped to Salt Lake City in 1912 (the only one I've lettered to date). The blue 4 inch I found in Columbus, GA for a half a song, I knew it had been refinished but it was unbelievable inexpensive. It also wears an importer mark under the grips, guessing it probably went to Mexico and found its way back north. The nickel 4 inch is my most recent pick-up and is pretty clean. They all shoot great.
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Old 09-05-2011, 11:26 AM
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I can not believe I haven't found this site before. What a wealth of knowledge. I have this 32-20, serial number 505XX that was my fathers and his fathers before that. I do not know if my Grandfather bought it new but I guess from reading this thread, I could apply for a letter from S&W which may tell me. This is a fun shooting gun, and I am now able to reload for it so the fun will continue. My wife enjoys shooting it and I can load a minimum load which will make it even better. My only problem is that my old eyes are having a very hard time with the sights. I've seen some mention of Wondersights which may work but I would also entertain putting a Crimson Trace laser grip on it if they make one that would fit. Would this be considered a "K" frame? Has anyone already explored this possibility? Well thanks for all the info on these fine guns and I'm glad that there are others enjoying them as much as I.
RDG, welcome to the forum. With that serial number, your gun was probably shipped in 1911 or 1912. You should find the same serial number on the underside of the barrel and on the rear face of the cylinder as well as the underside of the ejector star and face of the crane that abuts the front of the cylinder. But you may not be able to see those last two without partially disassemblng the revolver.

Those stocks, however, date to the 1920s; we can tell because they do not have the S&W medallions at the top of each panel, a design characteristic found in that decade. You may find a serial number on the inner right panel, probably in pencil. But if there is no serial number on the stocks, don't worry about it.

A letter will tell you the exact date the gun was shipped from the factory and the destination. Usually that is a hardware store or regional distributor, but in rare cases a gun was shipped to an individual who ordered it directly from the factory. You pays your money ($50) and takes your chances.
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Old 09-05-2011, 03:17 PM
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RDG, welcome to the forum. With that serial number, your gun was probably shipped in 1911 or 1912. You should find the same serial number on the underside of the barrel and on the rear face of the cylinder as well as the underside of the ejector star and face of the crane that abuts the front of the cylinder. But you may not be able to see those last two without partially disassemblng the revolver.

Those stocks, however, date to the 1920s; we can tell because they do not have the S&W medallions at the top of each panel, a design characteristic found in that decade. You may find a serial number on the inner right panel, probably in pencil. But if there is no serial number on the stocks, don't worry about it.

A letter will tell you the exact date the gun was shipped from the factory and the destination. Usually that is a hardware store or regional distributor, but in rare cases a gun was shipped to an individual who ordered it directly from the factory. You pays your money ($50) and takes your chances.
Very interesting. I found all the same numbers at the locations you mentioned except on what you referred to as the crane and on the frame just above where the crane afixes. At those two locations there are the numbers 2513. I believe the frame is one piece, so I don't know why that number would be stamped there with a different number than on the butt.
I had noticed by all the pictures throughout this tread that the medallions were not on the grips but I thought it just had something to do with the different changes. I did find the number 391947 written in pencil on the inside of the grip. I guess this gun was damaged sometime along the way and the crane and grips where replaced.
You have provided all the information I really need and I will have to think about the $50 letter. This gun will never be sold - at least not by me. Sure do thank you for all the info.

Richard
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Old 09-05-2011, 03:30 PM
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My 32-20 4 inch nickel....all number match except the stocks...serial number 68158. Great little gun, fun to shoot...I haven't lettered it yet, but I will soon.....bought it about 6 months ago at a LGS, $250 OTD....great deal in my book
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Old 09-05-2011, 03:43 PM
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Picked up this one a few months ago. 6-1/2 inch bbl. She's seen some use, but still is pretty. Model 1905 1st change. I put the serial somewhere around 1907.
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Old 09-05-2011, 05:26 PM
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Very interesting. I found all the same numbers at the locations you mentioned except on what you referred to as the crane and on the frame just above where the crane afixes. At those two locations there are the numbers 2513. I believe the frame is one piece, so I don't know why that number would be stamped there with a different number than on the butt.
Richard
Richard, I think you may have misunderstood David about the crane serial #. It's on the back side of the crane facing the front of the cylinder. You can only see it by looking thru one chamber with a flashlight. I'm sure you have an all matching original gun. The other #s you observe in the crane are factory assembly #s and will match a number on the inside of the sideplate but are otherwise useless.
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Old 09-05-2011, 05:41 PM
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1905 3rd Change Model. Made between 1909-1915.

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Old 09-05-2011, 05:42 PM
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...and a peek under the skirt

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Old 09-05-2011, 06:02 PM
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1905 3rd Change Model. Made between 1909-1915.

what's the serial number on yours????
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Old 09-06-2011, 03:45 PM
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hi
here is my family photo of my 32.20,s 18 in this picture but there are two more targets that are not in this picture.
enjoy the picture.
Jim Fisher.

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Old 09-06-2011, 04:09 PM
mikepriwer mikepriwer is offline
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As long as we are doing this, here is a 4" target:





Dave Chicoine refinished it, and KB recheckered the grips. Otherwise
all original, with matching numbers - even the grips.

Regards, Mike Priwer
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Old 09-09-2011, 08:34 PM
ColbyBruce ColbyBruce is offline
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My one and only, a 1905 4th change that I traded for yesterday evening. The stocks are not numbered at all, the bore and chambers are clean. Lots of holster wear along both sides of the barrel, freckling over a good portion of it. Not sure what I will do with it at this point, but thought of having it nickeled. That thought did not go over real well.


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Old 09-09-2011, 10:30 PM
MJS5678 MJS5678 is offline
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#74885, shipped September 1917, caught and released this year.

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Old 09-11-2011, 09:32 PM
Chinajim Chinajim is offline
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May I presume that the 32-20 and the 32 long are the same cartridge? If not I will go hide my head in shame
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Old 09-11-2011, 09:36 PM
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May I presume that the 32-20 and the 32 long are the same cartridge? If not I will go hide my head in shame
Sorry, go stand in the corner and hide your head in shame....
.32-20 Winchester - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
.32 S&W Long - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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Old 09-11-2011, 09:37 PM
ColbyBruce ColbyBruce is offline
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No, these are two different cartridges.
.32 a.c.p.; .32 S&W; .32 S&W Long; .32 H&R magnum; .32/20 Win.

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Old 09-11-2011, 09:58 PM
Hondo44 Hondo44 is offline
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Chinajim,

There is a possible reprieve for you however: the 32-20 cartridge has two common names, 32 WCF (winch ctr fire) and 32-20 Winchester which have been the seeds for confusion for many people.
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Old 09-12-2011, 01:00 PM
Chinajim Chinajim is offline
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Default 32-20 vs 32 long

Thank you for the info The revolver I wish to purchase is a Spanish made SW 32 Lng in the police design The gunsmith who owns it said he would have no fear firing it A picture of the design is on the 32 cal thread under my name I figured it would make a good self defense gun since any shoot out over 50 feet I'm gonna run lol Found a few 32 S&W's for sale up in the 4 bill range. He wants 200
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Old 09-12-2011, 05:59 PM
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Some idle musings: Long ago (well, not that long) David Carroll had a "Franken-gun" for sale. I bought it. Its what appears to be a prewar K32, with a mix of parts. Probably done at the factory if only because I can't figure out where else the barrel and cylinder could come from. Its got a proper centerfire hammer, and it seems to function pretty well. The barrel isn't finished, but it is a prewar K32 barrel. The cylinder appears for all the world to be a genuine K32 cylinder, and its blued as it should be. The gun's frame is also unpoished and unfinished. Stocks look great, but not finish sanded to the grip frame. Roy says its on a page in a book inhabited by K22s. Its also open on company books.

But I just wonder if I borrowed the cylinder/star/extractor rod from the gun and test fitted them to my .32-20 target if it would work. It'd probably make it a very serviceable .32 long with a .32-20 barrel stamp.

OK, it was one of the other threads where someone came in and pointed out you can fire .32 longs in a .32-20 without any gun damage. It does swell cases, but there is enough rim to catch the cylinder and fire just fine. Long cylinder but the right diameter bore. Function is fine, but maybe the extraction is sticky with the bulged cases.

If my above cylinder will fit and time correctly, I've got an even better solution. The only problem being my pristine non-medallion grips would be wrong for the made-up K32. But I could swap in a nice set of 1930's K grips and I'd be good to go.
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Old 09-12-2011, 06:26 PM
Doc Watson Doc Watson is offline
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In reference to shooting .32 longs in a 32-20, the late Maj. George Nonte disagrees, he lists them safe to fire, in fact I have done it in one of my 32-20 a Colt Police Positive.
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Old 09-12-2011, 06:48 PM
ColbyBruce ColbyBruce is offline
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Personally, I would not give $200.00 for a Spanish copy of a S&W. I like Spanish guns, and have owned a few, but you can find a better handgun chambered in a more potent caliber for that price, or maybe a bit more.

If you are near Atlanta, GA I will be happy to take you shopping.


Chinajim, I had three or four former LE S&W 39-2 9mm's shipped over here last week. I have yet to view them, but if this might interest you drop me a P.M. These were tentatively priced around $250.00, but that is negotiable depending on condition. One of them had problems (it is apart in a box). Not sure if that one came here or not, LOL!!

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Old 09-12-2011, 06:56 PM
Hondo44 Hondo44 is offline
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But I just wonder if I borrowed the cylinder/star/extractor rod from the gun and test fitted them to my .32-20 target if it would work. It'd probably make it a very serviceable .32 long with a .32-20 barrel stamp.
Dick,
You certainly peaked my interest with your idea. It's too easy to do, not to give it a try. It wouldn't be a one of kind convertible since Gatorbait showed his in post #44, but you sure wouldn't find many. Yours would be different in that you'd be using the same yoke and swapping cylinders.

IMHO I don't think the timing will be an issue. The barrel cylinder gap may but very fixable. The ejector rods are going to both be right hand thread so you may want to use the 32-20 rod as it will be fitted properly to the gun for lockup. Also I think the heads are different shape; your 32-20 being the 'mushroom' style based on your description of your grips and the 1930's vintage 32 revolver has the barrel style.

Let us know if you try it.
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Old 09-17-2011, 05:38 PM
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So this morning early my oldest and I ventured way north, to the OGCA show. We do that every other month.....

No real expectation of finding anything good, but with a pocket full of money and a smile on my face, I tried. What I discovered was a gold mine of 32-20 ammo. OK, only 2 boxes for $40 total. To me that's a good price considering the $40 is what most shops want for one box.

I also picked up a box of 32 S&W for $10. Fodder for the .32 cal experiment on the .32-20.
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Old 09-17-2011, 06:27 PM
Hondo44 Hondo44 is offline
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So this morning early my oldest and I ventured way north, to the OGCA show. We do that every other month.....

No real expectation of finding anything good, but with a pocket full of money and a smile on my face, I tried. What I discovered was a gold mine of 32-20 ammo. OK, only 2 boxes for $40 total. To me that's a good price considering the $40 is what most shops want for one box.

I also picked up a box of 32 S&W for $10. Fodder for the .32 cal experiment on the .32-20.
Dick,
You did very well. I was at a local show last weekend and couldn't find any 32 L under $30/box so I counted my brass at about 250 and reloaded them for the 1st time. 32-20 is never less than $40/box.
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Old 09-17-2011, 09:15 PM
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I picked up #144509 at a local show today. I'd like to enter it in the highest serial number contest. According to Mr. Jinks, there were little more than a hundred more made after this one.
Wow! I didn't think about ammo for it being as expensive as it is.
Is the Blue Book close on the value of these things?

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Old 09-18-2011, 11:17 AM
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My only example, serial number 222xx.
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Old 09-18-2011, 11:30 AM
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I picked up #144509 at a local show today. I'd like to enter it in the highest serial number contest.
David Carroll has a 5" gun with 144583 on his web site for sale. Guess thats 72 guns higher than yours. I wonder if the short barrel examples were sold out by the time they made yours and his, so some went back into production to satisfy demand for them. Long barrel guns might have still been in stock, so they kept pulling those for sale instead of producing them.

So in the last produced game you're playing, maybe it would also help out to state barrel length along with the high serials.
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Old 09-18-2011, 11:41 AM
gregintenn gregintenn is offline
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David Carroll has a 5" gun with 144583 on his web site for sale. Guess thats 72 guns higher than yours. I wonder if the short barrel examples were sold out by the time they made yours and his, so some went back into production to satisfy demand for them. Long barrel guns might have still been in stock, so they kept pulling those for sale instead of producing them.

So in the last produced game you're playing, maybe it would also help out to state barrel length along with the high serials.
As you can see, mine is a 4". 144583 is sure enough a late one.
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Old 09-18-2011, 08:32 PM
ColbyBruce ColbyBruce is offline
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Default Ammo ?

I bought these two boxes of ammo yesterday for my revolver. I did not notice the "express rifle" notation until I put the ammo on a closet shelf a few minutes ago. Is this safe to shoot in my revolver?


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Old 09-18-2011, 08:42 PM
Muley Gil Muley Gil is offline
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"Is this safe to shoot in my revolver?"

Yes. The .32 WCF (.32-20) was designed as a rifle cartidge for the Winchester 1873. Around 1882, Colt chambered it in their Single Action Army. That's why it is listed as a rifle cartridge.

The only factory load to avoid is the 80 grain jacketed hollowpoint that has a "HV" (high velocity) headstamp. IIRC, that load hasn't been produced since the 1960s.
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Old 09-18-2011, 08:50 PM
ColbyBruce ColbyBruce is offline
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I got the info below off the Remington website. The velocity concerns me.

Technical Information

•Caliber: 32-20 WCF
•Bullet Weight: 100 Grains
•Bullet Style: Lead Flat Nose
•Case Type: Brass


Ballistics Information:

•Muzzle Velocity: 1210 fps
•Muzzle Energy: 325 ft. lbs.
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Old 09-18-2011, 08:55 PM
Hondo44 Hondo44 is offline
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The only factory load to avoid is the 80 grain jacketed hollowpoint that has a "HV" (high velocity) headstamp. IIRC, that load hasn't been produced since the 1960s.
Any idea what the ballistics are on the old HV stuff to compare?
Thx,
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Old 09-18-2011, 09:03 PM
Hondo44 Hondo44 is offline
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I bought these two boxes of ammo yesterday for my revolver. I did not notice the "express rifle" notation until I put them ammo on a closet shelf a few minutes ago. Is this safe to shoot in my revolver?
Those must be the double rifle African Safari loads.
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