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S&W Hand Ejectors: 1896 to 1961 All 5-Screw & Vintage 4-Screw SWING-OUT Cylinder REVOLVERS, and the 35 Autos and 32 Autos


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  #401  
Old 06-29-2016, 02:26 PM
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image.jpg32 wcf ctg serial # 78945 , what year was it made , I was thinking 1916-17
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  #402  
Old 06-29-2016, 02:44 PM
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Yea I'm new to this and not sure how to upload pictures, and was just wanting to know how tight should the 32-20 bullet fit in the cylinder, ?
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Old 06-29-2016, 03:59 PM
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"...how tight should the 32-20 bullet fit in the cylinder?"
Can you elaborate on your question? I have no idea what your statement means. Yours probably shipped in 1917, at least I show one with a nearby SN which did.
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Old 06-29-2016, 07:55 PM
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What I was meaning is does the bullet supposed to fit pretty snug or kinda loose to where if you turn it upside down they can fall out freely or should they be snug enough to where you'd have to use the extracter to push them out , unfired ones that is , the pistol looks like it's practically new , was well taken care of or never hardly used , but I just noticed that when loaded the shells aren't real snug fitting in the cylinder, is it supposed to be not to snug fitting for maybe expansion after firing , thanks
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Old 06-29-2016, 08:24 PM
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Factory ammo should chamber easily, and if the loaded cylinder is inverted, unfired rounds should fall right out. Fired cases would probably not fall out on their own but require at least a little nudge from the extractor.
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  #406  
Old 06-29-2016, 09:55 PM
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My first 32-20.
After finding a 1905 4" Target in 38 Special and then another 1905 38 with a 5" barrel, my gun budget was shot.

But then, I found this 32-20 Target lingering on the web. How could I not put it on layaway ?
Serial range 133XXX




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  #407  
Old 08-06-2016, 02:41 PM
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Default Second model 1902 .32-20

Hello I am new to the forum but I have a Smith & Wesson Second Model 1902 .32-20. I bought it in a sealed case it has a trade mark on it. Very nice gun. Just wanting some info on what it is worth if anything at all. Thanks so much
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  #408  
Old 08-06-2016, 03:48 PM
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Default new to me

Here's one I picked up yesterday for 399. Numbers match but not the grips. 1905 First change.
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Old 08-07-2016, 05:07 PM
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Default Model ID and Date help

Hi, I need help Identifying the specific model number and manufacture date for this gun. SN is 144xxx it appears to be all original as everywhere I look has the same SN i.e. cylinder, underside of barrel and even under the wooden handles. It does have the paten numbers on top of the barrel, Smith & Wesson on the left barrel and 32-20 CTG on the right. It also has the trade mark stamp on the left side of the frame. Its in kinda rough shape finish wise but feels smooth as glass mechanically. I do not plan to sell it as it was my grandfathers, I just want to know for my own curiosity, and maybe a value for insurance purposes.
I read somewhere not to shoot modern factory loads through it, Of course I want to shoot it, any thoughts?

Thanks
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Old 08-07-2016, 05:44 PM
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Dmc21,

The last known serial number for this model is 144,684. I understand caution, but it would be very interesting to know the full SN of your gun. It is generally accepted that the last year of production of the cal. .32-20 "Winchester Model" hand ejector was 1929 or 1930. They were catalogued until 1940 or 1941 though. It is pretty safe to say yours was made in the final production year.

The caution to "Not shoot modern ammunition" is completely unfounded. ALL currently manufactured .32-20 ammunition is perfectly fine to shoot in any firearm of any type chambered for this cartridge.

At one time, there was a "Hi Speed" or "High Velocity" load for Model 1892 and '92 Winchester and equivalent rifles only, but this has not been loaded for some 50 years. It was loaded with a full-jacketed, round nose, hollow-point bullet so if you do find some old ammunition it is easy to identify! Any cartridge with a flat-point bullet, either jacketed or Lead, is perfectly safe to shoot in revolvers.

Nice 5"! Finish is pretty average, hardly "rough". Value should fall somewhere around $400-450.
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  #411  
Old 08-07-2016, 05:56 PM
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Welcome to the Forum.

You have a .32-20 Hand Ejector Model of 1905-4th Change. Model numbers weren't assignd by the factory until 1957 and this model was discontinued prior to WW II.

.32-20s are fun guns. Yours probably shipped in the 1930s. The last known serial number is 144684.
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  #412  
Old 08-07-2016, 06:44 PM
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Thanks for the info guys, the SN falls in line before the last known.
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  #413  
Old 09-01-2016, 11:08 PM
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Saw a listing on GB a few hours ago for a 32 Hand Ejector Second Model. Usually not a big draw for me, but something didn't look quite right.



Upon closer examination, I saw the caliber stamped on the barrel.



Never had a nickel gun, and not fond of refinishes, so I looked a little closer.




Hmmm, now my interest is piqued, so I check the bids. Starting bid of $100 and Buy It Now of $150 !

I just want to thank all who contribute here for sharing their knowlege and giving those of us just starting out in the wonderful world of S&W an idea of what to look for.

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Old 09-01-2016, 11:56 PM
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A Model of 1902, ca. 1908. .32 Winchester = .32-20. Not the prettiest girl at the ball, but worth $150 as a shooter assuming the bore is not rusted out. Probably re-plated at some time.

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Old 09-02-2016, 05:56 AM
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Is it listed as a 6" or as a 6 1/2"? Hard to tell, but it looks like original nickel to me.
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Old 09-02-2016, 06:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muley Gil View Post
Is it listed as a 6" or as a 6 1/2"? Hard to tell, but it looks like original nickel to me.
It's listed as 6, but I'm guessing (hoping) 6 1/2".
I couldn't see a "B" on the barrel and the ejector star looks blue, so I took it to be original.

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Old 09-02-2016, 07:31 AM
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Hi
c. 1908 is about right.
Both the 6" and 6 1/2" barrels were offered at the time. I can't tell from the pic either.
I'm with Muley - I don't see anything that would indicate a refinish, at least not from these pictures.

I'm sure you know the stocks are not original.

At $150 I would be all over that one. It could be a very fun shooter. Go get it!
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Old 09-02-2016, 10:04 AM
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Hi
c. 1908 is about right.
Both the 6" and 6 1/2" barrels were offered at the time. I can't tell from the pic either.
I'm with Muley - I don't see anything that would indicate a refinish, at least not from these pictures.

I'm sure you know the stocks are not original.

At $150 I would be all over that one. It could be a very fun shooter. Go get it!
I might have sprained my finger when I hit that BIN button.
I was hoping to use it as trading fodder for a 5" Target 32-20The .32-20 Hand Ejector Thread

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Old 09-02-2016, 09:46 PM
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^^^^^^^^

What Jack said! I see nothing in your photos that gives the slightest indication that your gun has been re-finished. A good photo of the sideplate would be definitive.
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Old 09-03-2016, 08:42 AM
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^^^^^^^^

What Jack said! I see nothing in your photos that gives the slightest indication that your gun has been re-finished. A good photo of the sideplate would be definitive.
Best I can do until I have it in hand.

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Old 09-03-2016, 09:10 AM
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Looks good to me.
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Old 09-03-2016, 09:30 AM
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Looks good to me.
Thank you. It is only due to all the good advice and the lessons I have learned from participating in this forum that I felt confident in my decision to jump on this. You guys rock !

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Old 09-09-2016, 09:26 PM
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Hi all,
This is a great thread. I've been a 32-20 fan since shooting my Grandfather's Colt revolver as a teenager in the 50's but I put off acquiring any until recently. Others have posted Colts so I'll show my 32-20 family - a 1923 Remington Model 25 pump, a 1920 Colt Army Special, a S&W 32-20 HE (Model of 1905, 4th Change I think) and a 1980's Jager Dakota SAA clone. I shoot a light load of Unique with 85gr jacketed bullets in all of them.

The S&W HE is SN 84107 with all matching numbers including stocks. I think the SN would place it around 1920. 6" barrel. Only about 50% blue on the frame but it locks up solid and shoots well. Much better trigger than the Colt in my opinion. Am I correct in identifying it as a 32-20 Hand Ejector Model of 1905, 4th Change?

Left side of barrel: "SMITH & WESSON"
Right side of barrel: "32 WCF CTG"
Top of barrel (as near as I can tell):
"SMITH-WESSON SPRINGFIELD MASS USA PATENTED" "OCT.3.01.DEC.17.01.FEB.6.06.SEPT.14.09.DEC.29.14"
No visible markings on the frame
Diamond stocks with gold medallions.

Thanks for all the 32-20 pix, Tom

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Old 09-09-2016, 09:46 PM
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"The S&W HE is SN 84107"

849xx shipped in 1/20; 850xx shipped in 3/20. Those are the closest SNs I have listed. Yours may have shipped in late 1919. Cylinder heat treating started at SN 81287 in 9/19. It would be a .32-20 Military and Police Model (M&P). S&W did not use the "Model of 1905" terminology that late, but some collectors still do. Do the stocks have a matching SN? They could well be original at that time.
-----------------
PS - You might want to tighten the hammer spring strain screw. It shouldn't stick out that far.

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Old 09-10-2016, 10:26 AM
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Thanks for the info DWalt. The stocks do have the matching SN written in pencil diagonally across the right stock near the top. Faint but readable. I tightened the hammer spring screw a few turns - what's the best way to determine the correct setting?
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Old 09-10-2016, 10:30 AM
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Thanks for the info DWalt. The stocks do have the matching SN written in pencil diagonally across the right stock near the top. Faint but readable. I tightened the hammer spring screw a few turns - what's the best way to determine the correct setting?
It should go in all the way. Some loosen the screw to get a lighter DA pull, but that is not a good idea.
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Old 10-03-2016, 11:04 AM
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Default 32-20 HE Question

I recently inherited a 32-20 HE and am trying to get a handle on what grips to try to find. Serial number is 127XX and it has 32 Winchester CTG on the barrel. Any help in id or manufactoring date will be appreciated. It has been poorly reconditoned, so I will make this one a shooter. I would like to find a set of wood grips.
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Old 10-03-2016, 11:14 AM
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Your Model of 1902 (or second model, first change) probably shipped in the 1904-05 period. Unfortunately, I don't have any SNs very close to yours listed to be more precise. The correct grips for that time would be black hard rubber. You might find a pair of originals on eBay, and there are numerous replicas available. If you don't care about having the original type, wooden and rubber round butt K-frame grips to fit it abound, both new and used.

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Old 10-03-2016, 12:14 PM
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Thanks Dwalt
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Old 12-09-2016, 06:10 PM
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Quote:

Who on the Forum has the lowest number and who has the highest number. Any information from factory letters or connections with family histories or law enforcement would be welcome. Model revisions and changes in markings could be noted as well. Those who still shoot theirs regularly could post tales and fi
According to the Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson, I have a Mo del of 1902. It has a serial number of 7xxx. Could sure use a new barrel. Kind of rough looking on the inside. Will have to load up some nice mild cast boolit loads & take her out and see how it does. I'm stuck working now for awhile. As soon as things let up a bit, I'll get to it. I'm in the market for another one of these soon!
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Old 01-09-2017, 06:44 PM
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Default My latest addition .32-20

Posted in HE thread but I spent a lot of time lately reading this entire thread and wanted to include her here.
Mine is SN 977XX from around 1921, Model of 1905, Fourth Change. Looks and feels great. Has two repair dates stamped in grip frame '48. Possibly replated but fine job as all stampings are crisp, no nickel on hammer, trigger or star. It's a 5" barrel. Bore and action are great, no hammer push off. It should have a heat treated cylinder as it appears that started with #81287. All numbers match on frame, barrel, cylinder, on star, and on yoke as seen through charge hole. Stocks appear to match but the penciled number is too difficult to read but correct grips with very good checkering.
Got some 115gr Ultramax ammo and may get her to the range this week or next.
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Old 01-09-2017, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
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Posted in HE thread but I spent a lot of time lately reading this entire thread and wanted to include her here.
Mine is SN 977XX from around 1921, Model of 1905, Fourth Change. Looks and feels great. Has two repair dates stamped in grip frame '48. Possibly replated but fine job as all stampings are crisp, no nickel on hammer, trigger or star. It's a 5" barrel. Bore and action are great, no hammer push off. It should have a heat treated cylinder as it appears that started with #81287. All numbers match on frame, barrel cylinder and on yoke as seen through charge hole. Stocks appear to match but the penciled number is too difficult to read but correct grips with very good checkering.
Got some 115gr Ultramax ammo and may get her to the range this week or next.
Have you checked the grip frame, under the grips, for a date stamp? Something like 8.54 would indicate a trip back to the mother ship in August 1954.
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Old 01-09-2017, 08:51 PM
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Have you checked the grip frame, under the grips, for a date stamp? Something like 8.54 would indicate a trip back to the mother ship in August 1954.
Looks like 7/48, 2/49. I know it should have a mushroomed ejector rod knob so that must be one job.
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Old 01-09-2017, 09:03 PM
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Yup, it made two trips back to Springfield MASS.
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Old 01-11-2017, 05:51 AM
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Post .32-20 HE M&P "Warhorse"

Gentleman, I am posting this very rough .32-20 WCF 1902, as a tribute to Smith & Wesson, and the amazing quality of their pre-war revolvers. This revolver was listed on GB, as simply Antique Smith and Wesson Six-shooter. I have four .32-20 Smiths, and one 1892 Winchester, in .32-20, and love this caliber. BIN was $119.00, and seller was unsure of the caliber. Serial # put it in .32-20 range, so I took a chance.Upper side plate screw was missing, Stock on the left side had a very large chip, and old goo from duct tape.Two fingers off the star extractor, are missing. The good news. Still very tight, exceptional trigger pull, single and double action, all numbers match, including the grips. Wiil get it to the range soon.
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Old 09-04-2017, 09:02 AM
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In honor of its 110th birthday, I would like to present this little 32-20 5" Target. No letter yet, but according to Roy, it shipped in September, 1907.
Since it lacks a "B" on the underside of the barrel, I assume it was an original nickel gun. Judging by the nickled hammer and trigger, I am going to say it has been refinished once. It has outlasted the refinish and has only the tiniest bit of nickel left on the cylinder, along with the hammer and trigger.
The bore is pitted and has a ring, but it is still a good little shooter.

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Old 09-06-2017, 01:31 AM
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Here's one I picked up about 6 months ago at a local auction.

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Old 03-24-2019, 02:27 PM
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Hello,
I have read all of this thread. I learned a lot!
This is my first post on this forum. I usually just lurk on all forums. But I was amazed at the knowledge available here and even more amazed at the willingness of the experts to share that knowledge. So, I thought I would try to post pics of my hand ejector and and see what I can find out about it. I apologize for my boldness, but I sensed that the experts on this forum enjoyed sharing their knowledge. (Very different from most of the forums on the net).
Mine is nickle plated (I do not know if original).
Serial 93502 on barrel and bottom of frame. I have not found that third serial mentioned on the cylinder. I could find no number inside the grips. Bore looks mostly good.
Was there supposed to be the S&W symbol on the side plate?
I intend to shoot this gun. I have brass on order and am looking for a deal on dies. I have a .32 bullet mold which I use use to cast bullets for my other .32's.
Anyway, thanks ahead for any info you wish to share.
Dan
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Old 10-07-2020, 12:34 PM
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So, I am helping a young man ID his grandpa's 32-20. I think I have it nailed down, but would love some verification.

The serial number is 3666X but under the barrel there is a B stamped off to the left of the serial number. The numbers match on the butt, cylinder and barrel. The gun works really well and is smooth in DA but will not lock back in SA. He would like to get that fixed at some point. The bore is in amazing condition.

Thanks Matt
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Old 10-07-2020, 01:43 PM
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The B indicates the gun is originally blue when it shipped new from the factory.

He'll want someone versed in S&W action fitting, not just any gunsmith. And may need a replacement trigger or hammer, but not always.
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Old 10-07-2020, 02:06 PM
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The B indicates the gun is originally blue when it shipped new from the factory.

He'll want someone versed in S&W action fitting, not just any gunsmith. And may need a replacement trigger or hammer, but not always.

Is there a suggested person that does this kind of work? These guys are becoming lost gems. I have not found any that I would trust in central IL or IN.
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Old 10-07-2020, 02:57 PM
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I don't know anything about them, but have you tried Civic Duty Gunsmithing? They seem to be good enough to build their own parts. But, before you take it to a gunsmith, doing a good cleaning of the action may resolve the issue. That gun is 100 years old and may have a varnish or crud buildup on the SA sear. The best way to clean it is to remove the sideplate so you can get a brass brush in there to scrub it. Just be sure to not mix up the sideplate screws as the lower forward screw MUST go back into its hole. Also, don't pry the sideplate to remove it. Rap the bare grip frame with the wooden or plastic handle of a tool like a hammer and it'll vibrate free. The sideplate is swaged to the frame and fits very tightly.

Pardon my rudeness. Welcome to the forums from the Wiregrass, mlward!

If you don't feel comfortable doing that, then a soak in auto trans fluid for about a week followed by a flush through the hammer and/or trigger openings with aerosol carb/parts/brake cleaner until the effluent runs clear may do it. Just take the grips off before you soak the gun. For extra crud removal, mix the ATF half and half with acetone and put everything is a sealable, chemical resistant container. After flushing, lightly lube the action with a good gun oil...about 5 drops is plenty and a drop on the yoke arm and ejector rod. She'll probably last another hundred years.
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Old 10-07-2020, 04:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wiregrassguy View Post
I don't know anything about them, but have you tried Civic Duty Gunsmithing? They seem to be good enough to build their own parts. But, before you take it to a gunsmith, doing a good cleaning of the action may resolve the issue. That gun is 100 years old and may have a varnish or crud buildup on the SA sear. The best way to clean it is to remove the sideplate so you can get a brass brush in there to scrub it. Just be sure to not mix up the sideplate screws as the lower forward screw MUST go back into its hole. Also, don't pry the sideplate to remove it. Rap the bare grip frame with the wooden or plastic handle of a tool like a hammer and it'll vibrate free. The sideplate is swaged to the frame and fits very tightly.....
.
That's what I had to do with mine. Full of dried grease. Toothbrush, fingernails and a couple of cans of Remcleaner fixed her right up.

I've had good luck with Frank Glenn. Frank Glenn-Glenn Custom Complete Gunsmithing Service Glendale AZ

Gratuitous photo:
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Old 10-07-2020, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wiregrassguy View Post
I don't know anything about them, but have you tried Civic Duty Gunsmithing? They seem to be good enough to build their own parts. But, before you take it to a gunsmith, doing a good cleaning of the action may resolve the issue. That gun is 100 years old and may have a varnish or crud buildup on the SA sear. The best way to clean it is to remove the sideplate so you can get a brass brush in there to scrub it. Just be sure to not mix up the sideplate screws as the lower forward screw MUST go back into its hole. Also, don't pry the sideplate to remove it. Rap the bare grip frame with the wooden or plastic handle of a tool like a hammer and it'll vibrate free. The sideplate is swaged to the frame and fits very tightly.

Pardon my rudeness. Welcome to the forums from the Wiregrass, mlward!

If you don't feel comfortable doing that, then a soak in auto trans fluid for about a week followed by a flush through the hammer and/or trigger openings with aerosol carb/parts/brake cleaner until the effluent runs clear may do it. Just take the grips off before you soak the gun. For extra crud removal, mix the ATF half and half with acetone and put everything is a sealable, chemical resistant container. After flushing, lightly lube the action with a good gun oil...about 5 drops is plenty and a drop on the yoke arm and ejector rod. She'll probably last another hundred years.

Thanks for the reply. I have taken many smiths apart exactly as you describe. I had not even given that a bit of thought, I certainly will work on that with him.



Thanks for the welcome. Have not posted much, but have watched for years as I collect and shoot many of the pre-hillary 600 series smiths. BTW, my default cleaner is 1/3rd of each, Pro-Shot (red), ATF and Kroil. Often a good soak works very well indeed.
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Old 10-07-2020, 04:50 PM
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Didn't mean to patronize you. But we often get new posters that are unfamiliar with how to maintain a Smith. Sounds like you got it well in hand. I'll bet you got some really nice guns to show us. Let's see them.

Guy
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Old 10-07-2020, 06:39 PM
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I enjoy the 32-20 ctg so I have a few. From left to right the first 2 are of a nice shooter the third picture is a refinished 32-20 I bought to shoot and it lives in the range bag then the last 2 pictures are of a rather nice shape gun that does not get shot near as often. They all are a real joy to shoot and very accurate. Enjoy
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Old 10-07-2020, 07:02 PM
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I love the 32-20 and now I have Smith to go with my rifles. I will definitely be adding a few more.
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Old 10-19-2020, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
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Didn't mean to patronize you. But we often get new posters that are unfamiliar with how to maintain a Smith. Sounds like you got it well in hand. I'll bet you got some really nice guns to show us. Let's see them.

Guy

You know, I do need to do that. I will make the true collectors cringe, but if I own it, I shoot it with 2 or 3 S&W exceptions. I have most of the 610's and 657's and they are my favorites. Love the little 3" unflutted Hortons. Yes, I shoot all of them. I did keep a 631 in the box unfired and a 627 new in the box... I think I have an unflutted 625 LC new in the safe also. But, for the most part it gets shot, I cannot look at them with out shooting them. Now, most have never seen a jacketed round in their life.



But, I really like the older revolvers. Have been chasing a good example of a blued 32/20 for years and can't say no to a pre-10 in decent shape. I would also not mind a 44/40. What I don't own, other than a Horton are any 629's. I got hooked on 41 mag early and never went to the 44.


I love this site, have lurked for years and never felt that I had any value that I could contribute... still do not but value the info and most replies to posts.
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Old 10-19-2020, 07:33 PM
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I have a question:
I have a full box of Remington High Performance Rifle 32-20 ammo.
This is exactly what it says on the box.
Can this be shot in a pistol safely??
I used to have the rifle, but sold it several years ago when we lived back in Texas.
There is a Gun Show coming up on Nov 7 in Gardnerville, Nevada.
I will take this full box of ammo to it and trade or sell it.
I paid 51.95 for it.
Any interest here on this forum??
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Old 01-10-2021, 10:00 AM
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Hi there,
I guess this thread is dead now, but you asked who had the earliest 32-20 Hand Ejector?
I have .32-20 first model (model of 1899), serial number 90, lettered as October 26 1901, 6.5" barrel, nickel finish, Black hard rubber grips.
She's pretty rough, but all there.
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