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S&W Hand Ejectors: 1896 to 1961 All 5-Screw & Vintage 4-Screw SWING-OUT Cylinder REVOLVERS, and the 35 Autos and 32 Autos


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Old 11-13-2010, 07:58 AM
arg271 arg271 is offline
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Default S&W 32 Long "I" Frame Revolver Restoration

Take a look; you might enjoy it.

YouTube - S&W 32 Long "I" Frame Revolver Restoration

argon
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  #2  
Old 11-13-2010, 08:33 AM
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Great video for disassembly & assembly pictures. I did have to chuckle when he got to the "paint shop".
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Old 11-13-2010, 11:25 AM
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Argon, great presentation. How long did the entire process take you?
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Old 11-13-2010, 11:47 AM
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Very well done, with the exception of a couple of the screwdrivers used. Curious what type media was used for the sandblasting.
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Old 11-13-2010, 11:56 AM
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Well done. I enjoyed the video. Thanks for Posting it.
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Old 11-13-2010, 01:34 PM
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I enjoyed that very much. You have set the bar very high for others to follow. Great presentation and thanks for posting. -S2
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Old 11-13-2010, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhvaughan2 View Post
Great video for disassembly & assembly pictures. I did have to chuckle when he got to the "paint shop".
In the future this will be equated with the buffed and hot blued "restoration" we see today.
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Old 11-13-2010, 03:04 PM
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If I had known it take less than ten minutes to restore a beater, I would have become a gunsmith long ago.

Really great job on the video, the revolver looks good.

How did you precisely clock the barrel?

How is the before and after action feel.

Outstanding post, thank you.
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Old 11-13-2010, 03:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhvaughan2 View Post
Great video for disassembly & assembly pictures. I did have to chuckle when he got to the "paint shop".
We make do with what we have down in South Florida

argon

Last edited by arg271; 11-13-2010 at 03:51 PM.
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Old 11-13-2010, 03:24 PM
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Argon, great presentation. How long did the entire process take you?
Approximately 10 hours. Including making the tool to remove the barrel (had to think about that one).
We did it in about 3 sessions.

argon
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Old 11-13-2010, 03:28 PM
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Very well done, with the exception of a couple of the screwdrivers used. Curious what type media was used for the sandblasting.
Agreed, we did not have all the proper tools.

We used 70 grit aluminum oxide at about 75-80 PSI. This was recommended by the moly resin manufacturer (John Norrel).

argon

P.S> I originally posted 100 PSI, that was in error.

Last edited by arg271; 11-14-2010 at 08:00 AM.
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Old 11-13-2010, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by gaucho1 View Post
If I had known it take less than ten minutes to restore a beater, I would have become a gunsmith long ago.

Really great job on the video, the revolver looks good.

How did you precisely clock the barrel?

How is the before and after action feel.

Outstanding post, thank you.
My buddy and I are not gunsmiths. With that said...

...since we used the original barrel, we figured it would not be a problem.
We "precisely" (pretty much) eyeballed it, as you see in the video, and then the barrel pin went in easily. Looks straight. =-|

We did not shoot it before the restoration. We haven't shot it since then. We got some ammo ready, though.
It does feel tighter, opening and closing the cylinder. Probably the result of the paint thickness.

But, before we take it for a spin, we want to check for: cylinder play, cylinder gap (barrel/ cylinder), cylinder timing (to bore).

We just haven't had the time. Work, kids, wives; you know, the same old sappy story.

argon

Last edited by arg271; 11-13-2010 at 04:03 PM.
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Old 11-13-2010, 03:56 PM
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I enjoyed that very much. You have set the bar very high for others to follow. Great presentation and thanks for posting. -S2
Glad you all enjoyed the video; thought you would.

Thanks for the kind words.

argon
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Old 11-13-2010, 04:27 PM
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Argon, is that a 'teens gun? '20s?

I gather that the action and timing were sound, and that it needed only a cosmetic overhaul to make it handsome as well as reliable.
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Old 11-13-2010, 04:53 PM
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I noticed a third hand in the video. You must be the envy of all craftsmen who have pined for an extra hand in doing projects!

Seriously, Mega-kudos for a great restoration job and a fun video to watch.
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Old 11-13-2010, 07:17 PM
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I noticed a third hand in the video. You must be the envy of all craftsmen who have pined for an extra hand in doing projects!

Seriously, Mega-kudos for a great restoration job and a fun video to watch.
COne:

You made me go back to take a look at the video.
I was holding the camera with two hands, my buddy was using his two... I have no idea where the "fifth" one came from... weird...

argon
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Old 11-13-2010, 09:41 PM
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Thanks for the video. Lots of fun and something to consider when we are working on a pistol that looked really bad. Thanks!

Charlie
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Old 11-13-2010, 10:00 PM
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Quote:
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Thanks for the video. Lots of fun and something to consider when we are working on a pistol that looked really bad. Thanks!

Charlie
We tried NitreBlue from Brownell's, but it did not come out right. Maybe we did not prepared the metal right (we sure tried). Maybe the steel wasn't right for it. A few pieces came out OK and I have to tell you, that blue is awesome.

We also tried nickel plating it with a small plating kit, but the layer of nickel wasn't thick enough, rust started to show.

Moly Resin was our fall back plan.

argon
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Old 11-13-2010, 10:45 PM
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Well done. I enjoyed watching the restoration.
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Old 11-13-2010, 11:56 PM
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argon,
That was an excellent video! I've got one of those projects coming
up. You sure did a nice job.
TACC1
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Old 11-14-2010, 07:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DCWilson View Post
Argon, is that a 'teens gun? '20s?

I gather that the action and timing were sound, and that it needed only a cosmetic overhaul to make it handsome as well as reliable.
We don't know the year. The barrel states "patented Feb. 8. 08. Sep. 14. 09. DEC 29. 14." We gather it was made after 1914.

We'll be checking all that next; cylinder play, cylinder gap (barrel/ cylinder), cylinder timing (to bore).

Just need to find the time.

argon

Last edited by arg271; 11-14-2010 at 08:01 AM.
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Old 11-14-2010, 11:49 AM
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With some of those tiny parts, "fat fingers" would be a huge problem.
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