I recently bought a very nice 1903 .32 hand ejector at a local pawn shop. It had a $249 price tag on it. When I asked to look at it the first words the pawnbroker said were "All prices are negotiable." I offered him $220 out the door, equivalent to about $203 before our 8% sales tax. He accepted immediately. I'm very happy with the deal I got, but his immediate acceptance makes me think I should have begun with a lower offer.

So, what % of the tagged price is a good initial offer? What's high enough to show I'm not some idiot who has no interest in really buying and low enough to provide some negotiating room? Would be interested in hearing from anyone who buys from pawn shops regularly.

si--------

In my area each pawn shop has its own personality. Some are gold mines and some guys are running a museum. Many shops here use codes on the tags of merchandise so they know what they paid for things when they are talking to customers. The most common are:

BLACK HORSE and MARY LOUISE

In each case the first letter of the code represents "1" and the last represents "0". So if you are looking at a revolver and somewhere on the tag it says BKEEE that means he paid $150 for it if he is using black horse.

I have gotten some great deals on some great guns at pawn shops but some shops are impossible to deal with. If you develop a relationship with one and you can start calling dibs on things before the come out then the gravy train will be rolling.

Don't get hung up on the "immediate acceptance". It's entirely possible that you "synced" immediately with the dealer.

In many instances, deals get queered by haggling. If you lowball an offer too much, the seller may take this as an insult, and dig in the heels in response.

If you think you got a good deal, so be it, and get on with the enjoyment of your acquisition.

It really depends on the shop as mentioned. Some won't negotiate for anything, some are flexible. The easiest thing you can do is ask for a cash discount, or to include the "out the door" phrase on your offer as you did, saving you tax.

I have bought many guns in pawnshops over the years. Some pawnshops price what they are selling unrealistically high and will never budge. In some shops you are dealing directly with the owner and in some you are dealing with employees. An employee is usually authorized to lower the price by 10 percent or some predetermined amount.An owner is better to deal with.
Most pawnshops only pay a seller 10 percent of what they think that an item can be sold for.
I have found that most pawnshops set a monthly goal of how much income that they wish to bring in.
Negotiating is most successful by dealing directly with an owner near the end of the month.
If the owner is way under his goal for the month he will be more likely to negotiate.
Also, never show any appreciation for an item being offered for sale.
Always display the attitude that you don't care whether you get the item or not.

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Old revolvers are works of art

There are a lot of folks who know more than I do about haggling, and many have posted or will post here, but one of the basics is to actually know what the item is worth. I understand that there are some places (some of the Arab countries come to mind) where both buyer and seller already know what the final price will be, but the interaction has its own purpose and nuances, and is some kind of social event.

Point? Do your homework. Of course, this is not always possible when you walk in on a surprise.

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Formerly Model520Fan

adowns,
I had the same experience a couple of months ago.
A pawn shop had a High Standard Sport-King with both barrels marked $495. I looked at it and handled it and offered $400 out the door. He whispered to his boss a few seconds and said OK. I wondered if I should have went lower.
However, I really like to shoot the gun, so I decided I was satisfied.
Also, thinking maybe, since we were both satisfied with the deal, and they know I am a buyer, not a looker, they will be good to deal with in the future.

Lots of good points in the replies.

From them I've learned
*know the value beforehand.
*both parties probably already know pretty much how the negotiation will come out.
*dealers often sell for twice what they paid. As I left I asked if he had about $100 in the pistol. He said "A little more than that."
*a successful negotiation without rancor may lead to a good deal in the future.
*don't obsess over not getting it $10 cheaper.

Thanks for the advice. Here's a picture of the pistol.

I always offer cash and a concealed carry permit up front so they know that the sale is a slam dunk once we come to a price and I discount by 35%. I assume they paid 50% and need to make something to keep the lights on and the doors open. I will go up to 30% but no higher, I'll walk..... I have a couple of shops where I have made multiple deals and they will quote me a different price than whats on the tag....

Nice looking .32. You got a good buy. I actually don't like "haggling". I will compare the asking price to what I feel it is worth, and offer about 10% below what I feel it is worth. If he's in it right I can usually buy for my price, but if he's in it too heavy he won't. Depending on just how much you want the item, make a 2nd offer for what you would pay, and if he still turns it down, walk. I do believe that if you are a buyer a few times it does enhance your status with the shop and will result in more deals

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

adowns, that looks like a somewhat used but well cared-for .32 -- you got a very good price on it.

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David Wilson

If you got it for a price your happy with then you won. You named the price you were willing to pay and he accepted. Don't worry about the what ifs. What if I could have got it a little cheaper? You'll never know. He could have counter offered and you might have had to pay more or take a pass on the gun. It never matters what they paid for it, only what your willing to pay. Just be happy and let them worry what if they could have got you for more money. Congratulations on the gun.

I have bought many firearms as well as other items in pawn shops over the years and have learned the following.
I ask them how firm they are on the price which almost always means them looking it up. I usually set a price in my head of whatever is the most I am willing to pay them for the item.
As mentioned earlier...you must know you product and pricing, just because it is in a pawn shop doesn't mean it is a great buy.
The pawn employee will usually come back to me with a price of which I will either decline, accept or make a counter offer. ie. maybe they have it priced at 400.00...they look it up and tell me $325.00....If I have $300.00 in my head, I will tell them $300 and they have a sale. More often than not it is mine, sometimes it leads to their counter-offer, perhaps they counter at $310, many times I will offer a coin flip, if they win I pay $310, if they lose I pay $300, usually fun for both parties as well....
My technique has them starting the process instead of me which almost never works....They often will say or ask "What is your offer?" So I learned to ask how firm they are on the price....might work for you. Have fun with it!
Randy

A couple years ago I severely overpaid at a pawn shop for a beautiful pre-war .38-44 Outdoorsman with magna grips and I fretted for weeks. Today it is worth twice what I paid ! A few dollars here or there will always wash in the end !

Jerry

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.38/44 Outdoorsman Accumulator

To me it is more important to find a pawn shop that is willing to deal and sell at fair prices. The technique of haggling really does not work if the pawn shop is not realistic on their pricing. Out of about 10 pawn shops around me there is only 1 that has fair pricing in my opinion. That 1 pawn shop has 10 times better firearms for sale then all the other 9 combined.

I have bought my fair share from them and although I cannot say I have walked away with any "steals" I always get a fair deal. I have never sold them anything but with the good quality used firearms they have I can just assume they probably buy at a fair price as well and thus they get the better stuff.

Just my 2 cents.

Later,

Person

In my experience over the years, most sellers are willing to come down around 10%. I usually ask the Seller, "What is your best price?" or I simply state, "I would be willing to pay $350". The latter assumes an asking price of $400 or so. I don't try to devalue the gun by pointing out all of the flaws as many times this merely insults the owner and closes out any negotiations. On the other hand a general statement like, "I would rate this gun around 80% condition so I would be willing to pay $X", is usually less confrontational.

I am not aware of too many pawn shops in my area, so these are just general negotiating tips.

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James Redfield
LM #497

You have a long way to go in your negotiating skills.

My first thought when I read the first post in this thread (echoing the comments of many others here) was "Heck, you did pretty darn good as it is".

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Old revolvers are works of art

A couple of weeks ago I found a very nice older M49 dash nothing with one small area of roughness on the right in front of the trigger guard in a pawn shop tagged $399. I had no real need for it but I made an offer of $300. He studied it a while and said that the best he could do was $375. I imagine I might have gotten it for $350 if I had pressed it but since I was just shopping and didn't really need another carry piece, I walked on.

Bob

The latest mod 63 I got was from a pawn shop. I must of had the look in my eye that I wasn't leaving without it. After the deal was done I asked him how the pawn business worked. So he told me he had $125 in the gun and held it for 3 months thinking that the guy would come back for it. He did the math and made $100 dollars off me buying it. I certainly don't begrudge someone that has a business to make a profit. Story 2 went to local gun shop found a nice mod 12 w/ box and cleaning kit. Salesman says $450 because he paid $400 for it. Number 1 mistake is telling a lie to me so I walked out. I have bought many guns from them, all smiths, at far prices the mistake they make is thinking I would pay more because I love the product. So now it's time to low ball and play the game. They should have made thier money off selling in volume to me. This would have been my sixth gun from them. Doeboy

The one thing I've learned over the years is, you always wonder if you could've gotten it for less. Just try to remember the moment you sealed the deal. You thought it was a great deal, so it most likely was. I always try to contain myself though. I generally try to decide what I'm willing to pay, then offer a little less, not a ridiculous amount and see what happens. You can usually haggle to your price point. I recently worked a deal on two handguns, priced at $295 & $495. I decided I would like to get them for $700 OTD. I offered $650 and he came back with $700 and I knew I had made the best deal I could AND it was what I wanted to pay. It doesn't alway work out that way though. Sometimes you'll find something priced way lower than it should be and you can still get if for less with the cash in hand. It really is a **** Shoot!

I've been on both side of the counter. When it comes to wheeling and dealing remember this little bit of advice.

Charm. Yes, you need to charm the sales person. Don't go in there with a horrible attitude. Be friendly, polite, and nice. Don't spend thirty minutes talking about guns and how you were a Delta Navy Marine Space Shuttle Door Gunner. Talk about the product that they have and that you want. Show interest in the item in question but do not show interest that "IT IS" the item you want. If they believe that they have some competition for you business then they will treat you better.

Know the market of the product. Know what the general market price is and also know what the general wholesale price is. Knowing that will pay a long way off.

Try to deal with management if you can. The local sale monkey behind the counter usually doesn't have the authority to modify prices. And 9 out of 10 times, since they can't they'll loose the sale instead of having to bring in the boss. Because in the employee's mind.... having the boss come is worse then not making a sale.

Know the local competition. Business owners know each other and know what they all do. If Bob's Guns & Ammo has GLOCKs for $450 because his distributor sells them to him at $375; then George's Gun Supplies will try to make a similar sale. How will that happen? He might not be able to sell the pistol for the same price but he might sweeten the pot with a free box of ammo or a discount on holsters. If you know what all the local places are doing.... then you can use it to your advantage.

Stick to your guns (yes, I made a funny) and if the place will not agree with you. Walk out.... You'll be surprised how often a place will suddenly change their mind when they see a potential sale walk out their door. When doing so... even a fib will work. Nothing is wrong with saying that "So and So" has it for a cheaper price but you don't want to drive the two hours north to get it. That, a lot of the time also works towards your advantage.

I walked into a local pawn shop simply to window shop. A very nice S&W Mod 15-4 was under the glass. They wanted $450.00... I wouldn't pay a cent over $375 for it. I talked them into dropping the price down to $350 by getting a couple of Walther P22 Mags. I was looking for some magazines for my suppressed P22 and they had it. The mags were priced at $25 a pop. I told them that I'd buy four mags at $20 a pop and the 15-4 for $350. They went ahead with the sale and I went home a happy customer. I never intended to do business with them, never knew they existed, etc.... But in the end they made a sale and I went home happy.

What made the sale for them was the magazines. I know that they pay $10 a mag. They went to $350 for the 15-4 without much of a fuss. They more then likely paid $250-$300 for it. They made 50% profit on the mags. In a sale.... that is major.

When I work the gun shop, I don't make money off the gun. I make money off the accessories. A good gun shop will run their business much like a good movie theater. The tickets are not the money maker. The tickets are what bring in the customers. The sale of popcorn and soda is what makes the money. Little investment into the product but a big market percentage wise. Same deal in the good gun shop. When I sold GLOCK pistols. I would only make about $30 in profit per sale for that gun. But usually when someone buys a pistol; they'll buy a holster, ammo, spare magazines, cleaning kit, targets, ear/eye protection, light/laser, night sights, etc.... If a holster only cost me $20 but I sold it for $70. I made more off the sale of the holster then I did the gun.

JBT very good insight, thanks for taking time to enlighten.

Wait, so he sells them @ full retail?

I have a good reputation with a couple of local places. When the price is right I buy always. So they know if they can reason with me they get to sell a gun and enjoy a little banter as well.

Asking for "no tax" here means nearly a 9% discount. I usually do better than that and they hold things for me if they know I'm interested.

That being said, I know the guys have to make money and I don't try and chisel every nickle on every sale. Being a good customer has benefits.

He tries to!

This is my approach as well. I frequently walk away empty handed but sometimes get a pretty good deal. I have also noticed that they are less likely to discount Glocks, 1911s, ARs and the like than revolvers, rifles and military surplus stuff. I guess that they sell easier.

Ok, so if I understand this right, BKEEE would actually be $15,000 and $150 would actually be BKE? Unless you mean $150.00 but I don't see a point to that. I got confused

Good posts in this one. Theres nothing wrong with negotiations as people sometimes think. We live in a capitalist country...

They usually put all the letters on there. So it is $BKE.EE. They just don't put the decimal.

Haggling is a lost art, or becoming one. Maybe they should find some old horse trader to teach it. So much going on, and that you should be aware of. Remember both of you have pride (and should be allowed to keep it.)

A big part includes the idea that you are a regular customer, or if you're a first time buyer with that seller. I've avoided the pawn shop venue because I'm not a customer. But the rules are the same as in a gun shop or with a gun show seller. If you are a repeat customer, the rules are just a little different. And you bring along all the baggage from prior negotiations, just as he does. Being courteous and polite isn't very expensive, so do it. And if you want or expect a continuing course of business, don't be overly concerned with making that last dollar. Once you get a reputation for being overly cheap, others won't respect you. Nor will they respect you if you pay way too much (you're a patsy.)

Some hard negotiators will bargain for every last cent. Maybe they're better at the game than me. I just don't care. If I get the price down to where I think its fair, I'll buy.

Don't bargain if you don't have the funds or aren't serious about buying. Nothing pisses someone off more than coming to a fair deal after 5 or 10 minutes of talk, then have the "buyer" walk away. There are times at gun shows where I've just asked a person who seems interested if he's really interested in buying, or just talking! One time I even got such a bad feeling after way too much talk I even made a pretty rude comment. I said you've had the chance to look at my gun, you've opened it, you've dry fired it, you've even looked down the bore with my borrowed bore light. Now lets look at the color and sizes of your money.

It staggered the poor guy. The essence of what I was asking was it's time to talk turkey. Talk is fine, but if you don't want my gun (or you run it down needlessly), walk away or buy.

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Dick Burg

I've read this thread with a lot of interest.

The comments re: offering $300 on a gun priced at $400, then when they come down by a full $90, suggesting a coin flip over the last $10! That must be a regional thing. In my area, YOU would be flipped, out on the sidewalk on your butt, accompanied by the crudest language you've ever heard, the cleaned up translation of which is "Don't ever come back!"

I agree with knowing what you consider a fair price and are willing to pay. Then make your initial offer a little on the low side. If he will not budge off a price you consider too high, simply pass on it, nice and polite.

I never start to negotiate if I don't have the money. That is a good way to wind up on your butt on the sidewalk (see paragraph two, above). I never even ask to them to get a gun out of the display case if I am not really interested or I know there is no way I can afford it. The world already has enough dreamers and tire kickers...

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You're shy a few manners.

OK, I've finished supper so now back to the thread...

A big part of how the dealing will turn out is how motivated the parties are to it. I'm kind of a jerk at times and I often just don't care if I sell or not. Some of my guns just travel with me. I only have them up for sale because I feel I've got to have "wares" on my table to sell. If I sell them, I've got to select some other peach from my tiny collection to put up for sale. And it won't be pretty if I want to keep it!

My gun show table pard always over prices his stuff. He does it because he knows the buyers will try to skin him. He's finally convinced me to do the same on some items. But in the negotiations I see, no matter what price you list, the guy asking (many not serious about the gun) will toss you a lowball, just to see. Back when I was flush with guns and money (before retirement), once or twice my contrary streak got the best of me and I would just accept their offer. Mostly it wasn't an offer and they turn tail and run off. Occasionally they retreat to think about it (hey, they made the offer, and it was a lowball). But if they came back, we started at the original price and not at their first offer. Once I even told such a guy to "move along".

Sometimes such a buyer gets a really good price on an item. When they leave, the seller can get an attitude. At an antique show a few years ago (its this weekend, so I'm assuming it was 2 or 3 years ago) I walked up to a silver vendor (Vi Walker out of Indy). He'd just experienced one of those situations. He had some great water "glasses" made of sterling, by a silversmith in Japan (Hirata). It was a full service of 12 of them. They had negotiated for almost an hour, but the lady and her mother just couldn't pull the trigger. I took one look and realized they were works of art, in perfect condition. When I asked the price, he smiled and said "I'll give you the benefit of the last lady's haggling". So I bought them for that amount. He finished up by saying one of his favorite things is to have an indecisive buyer come back and find the item sold.

Which brings up the idea that such negotiations don't always happen in a vacuum. Others may even overhear the dealings and wish they could buy at the suggested price. Once a potential buyer puts an item down, it becomes a different show. You can walk up and try your hand at the deal.

And in the gun show circuit, there are just conventions we kind of adhere to. Trying to get another $5 or $10 off a $500 or $5000 item will probably tell the seller he's dealing with an idiot.

I've got a really nice M12 I've been shipping around for a long time now. Its too nice a gun to just give away. I've priced it at what I think is a fair value of $450. I've had a few offers of $400, but I always return with a counter offer of $425. Its basically the bottom price (unless some other factor, like someone is a repeat buyer from me. If they don't want to pay, I don't care. I'll just lug it around until someone pays the price. It fills a spot on our empty table.

I'm not under any pressure to sell. Buyers don't know that. I'll eat tomorrow regardless. I even kind of like the gun. Its a difference from a pawn shop, where you can pretty much assume there is a pressure to sell something.

Part of negotiating, be it a gun or a car, or a piece of jewelry, is understanding what motivates the seller. It also helps to get an idea of what the cost on the item is. It won't make the seller happy, or gain you a deal if you're trying to skin him (buy from him and make him lose money.) If you want to own the item, but absolutely won't allow him any kind of profit, I predict an unhappy future for you.

Realizing you have a family to feed might make you want to fight for every cent. But he has a family, too. Once you make it clear you're trying to beat him to death, he just might harden his stance and make you pay more than you would otherwise.

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Dick Burg

Another couple of codes I've used/seen used before are:

CLEAN BRUSH and MAKE PROFIT.

All it takes for a person to make up their own unique code is to find ten letters in, a word or two, that do not repeat . . . and are only used once.

A couple of observations. First, it's only money. I know that's heresy, but it's still true. I recently bought what appears to be a very nice XP-100, in a state where, according to the law, there are very few coming in that weren't already here in 1998. But only a few months ago, I sold a .416 Rigby rifle and didn't get burnt, partly because prices are rising, but partly because the dealer who sold it set a reasonable price and the buyer didn't bicker. In the case of the XP-100, the seller had had it on the market for a while, and reduced the price slightly once or twice. When I went to see him, the only question in my mind was whether the custom stock fit my hand, and whether there was anything wrong with the pistol. If the guy who bought my .416 paid the asking price and left me undamaged in my Rigby experience, would it be so terrible if I did the same to my fellow Masshole?

The other point that fits into this discussion (not necessarily right here) is that what the seller bought the gun for is not only irrelevant, it's probably not even any of your or my business. If he bought well, that's his gain, not yours. If he bought poorly, that's his problem, not yours. My dealer knows that I have a fair knowledge of the value of some firearms. He also knows that I do not begrudge him a profit. I once bought or traded for (can't remember which) a 6" Official Police for $200. Within around a year, he came into posession of a 4" Official Police in even better condition. I happened to be loitering around the shop, and he offered it. I was fence-sitting, and he said either "$100" or "$100 today," don't recall which. I thought, "Better do it - worth it for parts alone," and bought it. Another time, I saw him take in a 2" Model 15 with slight cosmetic problems and an ammo box and ammo worth probably $20 for $100. It took a few hours to sink in completely, but I gave him $175 for that, OTD. I have no idea what y'all think of his margin, but I know that I got one heck of a good deal. What he bought it for is his business. It's still one of my favorite guns.

I could add one more comment about the value of used S&W's vis-a-vis new, but I've probably beaten that to death elsewhere.

There are some great buys out there still, if you recognize them. These ARE the good old days.

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Formerly Model520Fan

Don't second guess. Be happy he accepted your price.

I always bring cash as you tend to get a better deal, but the first step is actually to be prepared and do your research on the item and price it commands. He probably felt your price was fair for both parties.

There's a pawn shop about 3 miles from my house that I stop in once a month just to see what's in the used gun case. His prices are so high that I would be embarrassed to even start negotiations. I would have to start at 50% of his asking price and not go past 60% to get any kind of a deal. I figure it would be an insult so I don't even try to buy anything from him.

Cash is King, but I have found out that an NRA Life Member card and a checkbook are just as good. I never get to the bank on Friday before Saturday's gun show. I have negotiated several deals, offered NRA card and check without any problems.

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S&WHF 366

You need to be like Dick Burg and go around with a wad of $100 bills stapled together.

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You're shy a few manners.

Most people would be highly offended if they knew how little Pawn Shops pay for used firearms. While a gun shop may only mark up a gun $50 to $80 over their cost they usually make 3 t0 4X the cost of a used gun. Buying a used gun will have much more lattitude on price break than a new gun.

The trick with any negotiation is to be willing to walk away from the deal if you can't get a price you are willing to pay. If they detect that you are weak in your offer they'll certainly see how much more they can get you to pay. Items like a .32 will usually be harder for them to sell than a .38/.357 or .45 so they should be willing to go down more than the more popular guns and calibers.

Wait...how do you know about that?

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Dick Burg

In my younger years I loved to negotiate everything I bought. If you had it and I wanted it I saw no reason we “could not talk about it”. Now if I see something I want I may or may not make a fair counter offer for it. I carry my cash in my left front pocket held in money clip. When I make my offer I simply hold my money clip in my hand were the seller can see it, a wad of 20’s or 50’s lets a seller know I'm ready to do business if he is.

Two last thoughts on negotiations, if the deal is not right for you WALK AWAY. Remember the old saw “money talks and s&*t walks.

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Always Stay Strong!

Engineer,

The problem with taking a check at a gun show isn't so much the risk of it being bad. It is that most of us who aren't dealers, but casual traders and collectors, depend upon that cash from a sale to "invest" in some trinket we have been coveting. (Can't say I've ever bought a gun by offering to endorse a just received check to the seller.) I've been known to send a potential buyer off to the nearest cash machine and I offer to put their prize under the table until they return in a reasonable time. Usually they come back with the required wampum but if they don't I still have control of the deck and will deal with the next player.

Bob

I would say the "art of hoss-trad'en" has been pretty well covered. Only one more point to make.

Never, I say NEVER brag about how good a deal you got or gripe about being taken (keep it to yourself). The gun-nut fraternity is a small group & all tales will come back around. If a seller/dealer thinks you are belittleing him behind his back, all bargains will stop.

Jim

Aw Jim, no "brag" or "gripe"...where's the fun? If we took all the "How'd I do" threads out of this forum, it would die on the vine

Bob

The last 4 or so firearms I have bought have been from a local pawn broker...
I'll stop by at least once a week on my way home from work to check out what they have.With the economy the way it is now there are a LOT of tools there that tradesman have been dumping as there is no work.
Anyways, back to firearms...
The shop is part of a regional chain, I mostly deal with the manager who knows me as a regular customer. Once I showed him how to date a Garand rile by racking the bolt and exposing the date of manufacture on the barrel. Another time I explained that 1903s often had barrells put on during the war years 1940s.We even had a discussion about Mitchels Mausers vs. Russian pick ups vs. bring backs from Grandpas days as a grunt in WW2...
So, I would recommend building a relationship. I have shown him stuff he did not know about firearms and he has recipricated by giving me a fair price. He will even give me a heads-up to say that he has a S&W coming out and would I be interested? I'll swing by and either say no or buy it...
I usually pay cash and he'll knock off the sales tax.
There is no "code" as far as what is on the tag, he'll get on their computer and see what the paid out for the loan. I worked at a place and their "secret" code was "CONQUESTRY" so I'd look for a 10 digit letter code....
After watching the show Pawn Stars I have realized that the pawn brokers need to make a profit (usually 100%+).I honor that, as a business has to make a profit to keep the doors open.
Some of the deals have included, a Glock 19 for $300.00, a S&W Victory for 250.00, a1980s Ruger Single Six .22 for 200.00, a WW2 era German bayonet for 20.00,etc.
He most often has some **** for sale like a Jenning 9, or other pot metal throw-downs, but being halfway savy and educating him I have walked out of the store with both of us being happy...

[/IMG]i buy almost all my guns at pawn shops, it helps to get to know the people that you are dealing with. the secret to a good buy is to buy two guns at once. i went in a while back and was interested in two guns, a model 30 snubie like new, and a model 88 win. 243 the smith was marked 275.00 the 88 was marked 587.00 i made them an offer of 500.00 for both and they countered with 525.00 i went home with both guns. i sold the 88 to a friend for 550.00 the moral of the story is free model 30 made in 1965 32 s&w long.........

I don't get it... why even bother to go in...??


Edit: Ooppss... sorry dredged up an old thread.

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I'm too windy for 30 chrctrs!

Auto Mag
Thread was dead for nearly 6 years. Do you also go into cemetaries at night and dig up old graves?

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Jack
SWCA #2475, SWHF #318

You can't pay too much you can only buy a little too soon. I learned that HERE! One man owns 4 really big pawn shops in this county. I go to all. There is NO rhyme or reason to anything they price as concerned by value. Everything is priced by what they have invested. One of my men recently bought 4 Winchester 94 Commemoratives. Absolutely stunning wood and octagon barrels. All 4 for $800. I stopped in 3 days later they had a plain Jane 94 they had marked $695. Pawn shops are strange places to me, but I can't stay out.