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01-19-2011, 03:46 PM
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What Smith Have I Found Here?
Haven't been able to actually put my hands on it yet, but a local college kid has listed it for sale, asking $150 (due to the condition of the finish).
Serial number is 258214.
I'm guessing an old K frame, but don't know for sure. I think I see a barrel pin, but this is the only photo I have to work with at the moment.
Anyone here have the correct scoop?
Thanks
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01-19-2011, 04:43 PM
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That is an old pre model 10 and worth the $150 asking in my opinion. Scads of them out there but that one looks like it will clean up nice.
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01-19-2011, 04:52 PM
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Thanks, Ken.
I'll check the lock up and see if it cycles ok.
Might make a good truck gun.
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01-19-2011, 04:55 PM
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It looks like it has been nickeled over blue or re nickeled to me, hammer and trigger appear to be nickeled, side plate screw holes dished by aggresive buffing (Behind trigger and just above trigger). Then it just may be the lighting throwing shadows. Still worth the $150 asking price.
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01-19-2011, 04:59 PM
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Looks like a pre model 10 or a prewar M+P. If you are correct on the serial number and there is no letter prefix that is.
Also appears to have been nickeled after the factory as the hammer and trigger appear to be nickel. These were originally case hardened at the factory.
And I agree it's well worth the $150.
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01-19-2011, 05:02 PM
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Gentlemen, I really appreciate your responses.
Just another example of why this forum is an asset to uninformed people like myself.
I did ask twice for the owner to confirm the serial number with no prefix.
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01-19-2011, 05:09 PM
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Very early 4th Model, like 1917-1920.
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01-19-2011, 05:13 PM
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And if I do acquire it and shoot it, I should only shoot standard pressure ammunition, correct?
Does Winchester White Box FMJ qualify as safe for this gun (assuming it's in good condition)?
Or should I just not intend on making it a shooter?
thanks again
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01-19-2011, 05:17 PM
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Std velocity 158 gr LRN would be the right load for that old fellow.
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01-19-2011, 05:37 PM
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I would like to run onto that old fellow for 150.00
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01-19-2011, 06:28 PM
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It may be my imagination or the shadow in the photo, but it appears that the front sight may have been modified a bit.
Grips are probably after market.
That sure wouldn't dissuade me from buying it at the price mentioned.
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01-19-2011, 06:33 PM
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I looked up the pistol in my 3rd Edition Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson and found on page 139 that it looks to be a .38 Military & Police Model of 1905 - 4th Change. It lists the serial number range 241704 - 1000000 with 758,296 manufactured c. 1915 - 1942. Price is $75 for poor, $135 for fair, $200 for good and up to $1200 ANIB. It does say that the square butt is scare. It's about a third of a page of information and I'm not that good at typing so I'm cutting it short.
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01-19-2011, 07:17 PM
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I would buy that one just for the coolness factor. It is worth it. Standard velocity for shooting.
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01-19-2011, 08:33 PM
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Thanks for the info.
I bought it.
The kid was savvy and held to his price.
I even tried the old "Well, this is all the cash I brought" trick.
Ended up going inside the hardware store nearby and getting another $20 cash with my debit card.
Serial number on the cylinder matches the frame.
Grips say: "Sports Inc. Chicago"
Barrel appears to have been shortened, front sight's been reinstalled, probably refinished in nickel.
Somewhere in the past someone fancied up their Smith. Imagine that?
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01-21-2011, 01:19 AM
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I'm looking at the hammer, and the way it is set in the frame, as well as the barrel. Are you sure it's a .38? could be something else. Flapjack
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01-21-2011, 01:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amazingflapjack
I'm looking at the hammer, and the way it is set in the frame, as well as the barrel. Are you sure it's a .38? could be something else. Flapjack
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Gee, I hope so.
The barrel's marked ".38 S&W Special" and I've loaded it with .38 Specials but have yet to shoot it.
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Last edited by doc540; 01-21-2011 at 01:35 AM.
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01-21-2011, 01:46 AM
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Nice score.
Grips look interesting. What are they made out of?
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01-21-2011, 05:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dump1567
Nice score.
Grips look interesting what are they made out of?
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Plastic....
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01-21-2011, 07:21 PM
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Not an expert on this but the stocks look a little like the seldom seen 'tuskoid' stocks S&W offered during the prewar years. Or, they could be Franzite?
Chuck
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01-21-2011, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 29-1
Not an expert on this but the stocks look a little like the seldom seen 'tuskoid' stocks S&W offered during the prewar years. Or, they could be Franzite?
Chuck
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Franzite with the Chicago logo inside
Haven't had the thing a week, and already I've bought a set of correct period stocks and a grip adapter.
That's just what we do, isn't it?
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01-21-2011, 09:07 PM
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That's just what we do...
Right on, man. Nice Score.
I'll bet you will enjoy that one.
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01-21-2011, 09:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Targetslayer
I looked up the pistol in my 3rd Edition Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson and found on page 139 that it looks to be a .38 Military & Police Model of 1905 - 4th Change. ... It does say that the square butt is scare.
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That was an error that I've seen pointed out here. The square butts are not scarce.
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01-24-2011, 09:48 PM
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Got a set of correct stocks today, but the grip screw didn't interchange with the Franzite's. That's my next project.
And, I think, I have a grip adapter coming that will fit. (crosses fingers)
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01-24-2011, 11:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doc540
Got a set of correct stocks today, but the grip screw didn't interchange with the Franzite's. That's my next project.
And, I think, I have a grip adapter coming that will fit. (crosses fingers)
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Already a huge improvement. Those look good.
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01-28-2011, 09:34 PM
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Found an old grip adapter, so let's go shootin'!
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01-29-2011, 12:03 AM
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If you get bored with it I'll drive down from Tyler and take it off your hands.
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01-29-2011, 12:17 AM
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I don't know what I'm going to do with it, so you get dib's.
Why didn't you experts tell me there was a serial number under the barrel?
It has a "B" for "blue" in front of it.
So, it was originally blued and not nickel.
Learnin' something everyday about these fine old Smith's.
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01-29-2011, 03:41 PM
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I'm sure someone did since you posted about this gun all over the place. Its common knowledge and for $150 its essentially does not matter. If this particular gun didn't function, it wouldn't have been worth $150 but it did function, which is why you bought it. Original finish means little with the barrel issue.
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01-29-2011, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goring's S&W
I'm sure someone did since you posted about this gun all over the place. Its common knowledge and for $150 its essentially does not matter. If this particular gun didn't function, it wouldn't have been worth $150 but it did function, which is why you bought it. Original finish means little with the barrel issue.
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Do you, by chance, work in a pawn or gun shop?
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01-30-2011, 12:49 PM
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old guns that have used hard and have been altered to fit their owners needs have a certain "i dont know what" about them. if the price is right. i snapped up this cut down triple lock last year for $250. not much blue and a re-attached front sight and a rear sight that has been ground out a bit. but beleive it or dont it still makes cans dance at 15-25 yards
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01-30-2011, 01:53 PM
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Quote:
Do you, by chance, work in a pawn or gun shop?
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No, I simply stated the obvious.
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01-30-2011, 04:42 PM
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The friendly, helpful information is much appreciated since this is my first, vintage Smith.
Those attitudes are great examples of what makes this forum such a valuable resource, and they're a motivator for members who haven't made a financial contribution to the Forum.
The unfriendly attitudes, not so much.
And major props to a member who generously offered to send a grip screw!
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01-31-2011, 07:44 PM
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Grip screw arrived and installed.
I think we're done here.
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02-09-2011, 07:17 PM
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Your thoughts on a Pre10 2inch.
Hi guys/gals, ...... Need some feedback. Have a Pre 10, 2 inch (5 screw) which I picked up used. It's aftermarket nickled. Gun is tight with no signs of abuse. Had it to the range(100 rounds) of stnd. pressure put through it. Shoots great and very acc. w/ 158gr. ammo. Trigger very smooth due to use/age I assume. Only problem was ejector rod loosened up & backed out during some rapid DA drills and could not open cyl. due to this. Smithie at range got it opened & re-tightened the rod. (said if it continued he could remove and apply some clear nail polish to threads & re-install. This would keep tight without using "Lock-Tight"). My "question" is this! Gun is 60-63 yrs. old and I would like to ccw with it at times. Do you feel it's safe to carry for def.? Can age alone cause intern. parts to weaken and break down?? Aside from age, gun seems to be in very good cond. Thanks for your expertise in advance. Gapper 1
SORRY ... MEANT TO POST AS NEW THREAD.
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02-09-2011, 07:34 PM
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Actually, the nail polish is probably more permanent than the removable type locktite. I forget which color is which, red or blue, but one is permanent and one holds things but can be removed with heat I believe. Before using it for CCW, I would want to be sure that the rod/cylinder issue was solved. Probably not much fun being in a gun fight with a gun that won't index.
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02-09-2011, 07:36 PM
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I would have no hesitation in carrying that gun. There would be no fear of it discharging or accidentally firing even if dropped. These guns had changes made to the internals to avoid such problems after one of them was dropped on a naval ships deck and discharged. This gun you speak of was produced post that change, I beileve, and should prevent that very rare occurrence from happening.
Having said that, as a CCW gun you may depend on it firing one day and you may want to be certain that the rod is tight and doesn't lock up the gun again as it would be unfortunate to have it dysfunction when you needed it to function the most.
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02-09-2011, 07:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSR III
Actually, the nail polish is probably more permanent than the removable type locktite. I forget which color is which, red or blue, but one is permanent and one holds things but can be removed with heat I believe. Before using it for CCW, I would want to be sure that the rod/cylinder issue was solved. Probably not much fun being in a gun fight with a gun that won't index.
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