Please excuse me if I am not in the correct forum, but am new to both the S&W Forum and S&W Revolvers.

Looking to buy 2 S&W .38s
I was recently offered 2 Smith & Wesson revolvers, but being new to revolvers I wanted to make sure I was getting my moneys-worth. (650.00 for both) Here are the two revolvers...

My favorite of the two

SMITH & WESSON
(USA) Model 36
.38 SPL
2" bbl
5 shot revolver Ser. J408XXX
On the frame is: Made in USA
Marcas Registradas

and

SMITH & WESSON
Model ??
.38 SPL
5" bbl
E 71808 (stamped on frame forward of cylinder)
Ser. C 377177 (stamped on lower grip strap)
bluing loss on cylinder barrel etc.
Barrel stamped with 38 S&W Special CTG.
The barrel also has a weird (different "&" symbol between the S and W..it is more elongated compared to the other revolver.

Any information or assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in Advance
Bruce

Edited to remove my unhelpful and inaccurate coment!

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Old paratrooper in NC

The second gun is a .38 M&P, later called the Model 10. The serial number puts it in 1956 or 1957, just before model numbers were assigned and stamped on S&W products. Collectors would call it a "pre-10."

The Model 36 dates from the mid 1970s.

In good condition (completely functional and with little wear and tear evident on the surface), either gun would probably be offered in the $300-400 range at most gun stores.

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David Wilson

what part of the country too.. Cali prices, or kentucky price, prices vary depending on location

The $650 is at the high end of being "OK" . A better deal for you
would be $550 to $575 . Neither gun is in particularly high demand,
moreso the C-series .38 . Some like the model 36 becaues of its
small size. Personally, I don't find anything particularly exciting about
either one, which is why I think they are worth a bit less.

Mike Priwer

Thank you for your help..here are the pics of these two firearms.

Doe sthe CTG designation mean anything? Could this be a K-200?

Attached Images

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	DSC_3931.jpg (156.6 KB, 142 views)
	DSC_3930.jpg (178.4 KB, 193 views)

Is it just me or is there a screw missing on the Military and Police revolver's sideplate?

CTG is just an abbreviation for the word cartridge. The gun is a plain ol' Military & Police which began being stamped 'MOD 10' by around 1958.

Mark

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S&W Forum Member #721

looks like a screw broke off

$650 seems like the high end of prices to me

Around here the Model 36 snub nose would sell for around between $400 and $450 in that condition because we have a lot of concealed permits and they work great for woman with a purse and men in summer attire when it's 95 out.

I'd make an offer on the Model 36 and start at $350 and I would pass on the M&P because with the broken or missing screw in the side plate I wouldn't want it.

I'm going to guess missing or covered in gunk and the camera makes it appear missing/broken. How hard would it be to actually sheer off a sideplate screw....I just can't imagine it's broken...

Jeez, if it it's really broken you'll want to pass on that one.

Okay I'll ask. Is that sideplate screw broken off?

:-) No the sideplate screw (rearward toward grip) is not broken off, however, it is flush with the frame unlike the forward screw which is slightly convex. There are no tooling marks in either screwhead so I am going to guess that both are factory screws.

And the 36 is in incredible shape. The only wear that can be seen is in the grips, not marred but worn. I am liking that one.

Now if Remington would contact me about the Remington 1858 NAVY

That sounds like the screws for the sideplate have gotten switched around. Check under the grips and see if the screw under them is rounded on top. The flat head screw belongs under the grips. It is still a little worrisome that someone who didn't know what screw went where messed around with the gun, but if it is mechanically sound it is OK. That gun in that shape would bring about $200 around here.

No sir, there are only 4 screws on the frame (1 on front of trigger guard, 2 on the side plate and 1 on cylinder release. Also there are no screws under the grip, just one that goes through the grips from the left side to the right.

Here is an old hand ejector. With the style of grips that is on it you can see the third screw on the sideplate. Later model grips cover it. That screw has a flat head so the grips will lay flat. I could be wrong though.

Here is a better look at the screws

Attached Images

s&W.jpg (91.3 KB, 55 views)

Hi,

On the M&P, the screws are original but the flat-headed one actually has been switched with another rounded head one that you can't see without taking the right side wooden stock (grip) off.

Once you remove that stock, simply unscrew and swap the two screws and it will look "perfect" to all us Smith nuts.

Here's a photo of my 5" M&P, virtually the same revolver you are looking at but in original bright nickel. It is a tackdriver and quite fun to shoot. Last week at the range I was able to hit a 20oz. water bottle with it from the bench . . . at 100 yards! Great gun, those K-frame M&Ps (later called the Model 10).



Here's a ten yard target shot with this gun this past week. I had to straighten out the stick on florescent orange 1" round target, for the M&P had pretty much eaten out that 1" area before all shots were fired, so it had turned almost sideways!
(L to R) 1982 Model 19-5 .357 K-frame; 1950 M&P .38 Spl. K-frame; 1916 Model 1903 5th change Hand Ejector .32 Long . . . all great revolvers indeed!!!


I have a Model 36 too, made in 1964. Lots of 'em weren't carried or shot much and come on the market all the time as widows sell their late husband's nightstand gun.

Neither of em are rare, but all are great revolvers and can be had at very good values. Both are very accurate when we do our job.

The larger, heavier "K-framed" Model 10 will be easier to shoot well, and the longer barrel will add to accuracy and improved velocity. The small "J-frame" M36 will make a great CCW revolver. It is just as accurate but the very short distance between sights makes it more of a challenge to shoot accurately and requires more concentration. BTW, my Airweight version of the M36, the M37 is my "always" (always on me) CCW revolver and I feel quite well armed with it for emergencies.

Hope this helps, Tom

Here is an answer that is based only, and purely on opinion. I wouldn't mind the 36, but those prices are a bit high for me. I look around til I find a gun at my price (fair to both parties). There are so many Smith's to choose from, Therefor, personally, I would do some research on this forum if nothing else and look for better prices. However, If YOU feel that these are what you want and you're willing to pay those prices, Happy buying and shoot safe and in good health. Regards.....,Sprefix-----SEE THIS!!! For Sale Model 36 Mint NIB MUST SEE!! .......it is in the classifieds on this forum...Good luck

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Go big or stay home

Absolutely...thanks a bunch. I am slowing becoming a genealogist about guns. I love the research and info that others have to share and that I am able to find.

Bruce