good day everyone. i traded for an S&W model 32 in .38 s&w and was wondering on the date: serial: 483xx.

Is it stamped Model 32 in the yoke? That's a prewar s/n you provided so it can't be a M32 because it's from 1937.

If you left off the R prefix part of the serial # it would be from 1971 but is a Model 32-1.

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Jim
S&WCA #819

it is on the yoke,but there is a "32" stamped inside the frame. there is no R prefix. i do not have pix atm and won't be able to pick it up till Wed. the bluing on it is very nice as is the stocks.

By the way, welcome to the forum.
That 32 is an inspector mark, not a Model stamping, it has to read MOD 32 in the "yoke cut" of the frame. It didn’t become the Model 32 until after 1957.

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Jim
S&WCA #819

Welcome to the forum!!! We love Terriers!! We also love pictures.

Best Regards, Les

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SWCA 3084, SWHF 495, PGCA 3064

thank you hondo for the info. pix will be incoming les.b when i pick her up on wed.

alrighty, so i picked up my revolver today. it IS model 32-1 and the serial is in the 483xx range (there is no R prefix mr. hondo). can't post pics because.......for some reason it won't let me....

Darxeid:

Are you getting the serial number off of the butt of the gun? Sometimes there is an assembly number in the yoke area which is not the serial number. If your gun is a Mod 32-1 the serial number you are quoting seems to me to be far too low. Post war serials run from 54474 to 132678 according to the "book".

I'm not an expert on these little guns, but Hondo44 is, and he will no doubt be along soon. In the meantime, check the butt of the gun just to make sure.

If you PM me the pics, I will post them for you.

Best Regards, Les

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SWCA 3084, SWHF 495, PGCA 3064

Hondo stated in an earlier post that depending on some things it's either from 1937 (which now i know is not the case) or 1971 which does make it an M32-1. there is no serial on the butt, which i don't know why. but there is a number inside the gripframe that matches the number on the yoke.

Something doesn't compute:

A Mod 32-1 is Jan 1961 or earlier.

The #, if it is the serial # is from pre 1940 and has a round front sight and no barrel rib.

That can't be. Are you taking the serial # from the gun butt and are you sure you're reading it correctly?
Are you sure there's no R on the other end of the butt?

Which of these does it look like? Especially compare the trigger guards to yours:

Top gun is like a pre war:

Photo by les.b


The top gun is a 38 Spl but looks like a Model 32-1 just with a longer cyl here:

Photo by TNZ71.

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Jim
S&WCA #819

When the Model # was added in the 'yoke cut' of the frame, the assembly # was moved to the bottom left side of the grip frame.

No serial on the butt sound ominous and illegal. Did they register it by the assembly #?

Look behind the extractor with a magnifying glass and the on back side of the right stock panel for a stamped number that matches. Those are your serial #.

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Jim
S&WCA #819

ok. i found a serial number on the inside right panel of the grip. it says 27824. the butt of the grip does not look like it has been modified, but there is no number there. out of the two terriers in your first pic, it looks like the bottom one, but with the top one's cylinder release latch. since i can't seem to post a pic, is there any way i can email the pix to you hondo or les?

i also managed to locate the number on the extractor and it matches the number on the right grip panel. (27824).

finally figured it out, more incoming.

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here is set 2. i hope all this helps ID it.

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Ok great pictures! It doesn't look like the bottom gun in my first photo, look at the difference in the size of the trigger guard. Those are I frames. Yours looks like the J frame, top gun in my 2nd photo!

Now we know that the true serial # has to be R27824, albeit the R is not usually stamped on the stock or ext star. And that #, the thumb piece and non diamond stocks clearly prove it is indeed a Model 32-1, J frame from 1969.

Because the Gun Control Act of 1968 requires letters in serial #s, the serial # range for your gun began over again at R001 thru R30,000 in 1969. The same law that makes removing or tampering with a gun's frame serial # a federal offense if done w/o express permission from the BATFE.

The butt to me, looks obviously like the # was removed and polished with an attempt to cold blue over the spot where it was. That's not factory bluing and doesn't match the blue black of the rest of the gun.
Are the stock panels slightly long for the bottom edge of the grip frame or look like they've been trimmed?

I hate to be the bearer of bad news but that gun should never be sold/traded with a tampered butt of the frame serial #. But I will say, that because the assembly #48354 is stamped on the frame, left side of grip frame, it could appear legal to a casual observer or average LEOfc, however not a knowledgeable dealer. But the assembly #48354 might be used by a novice dealer for registration purposes, although that might not be required for a private transfer in your state.

It's not a first, as this mistake is not uncommon by dealers who take the # from the yoke area on early S&W revolvers because later larger frame guns do have the serial # in the 'yoke cutout' of the frame in addition to the butt of the frame.

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Jim
S&WCA #819

The grips are standard J frame grips. They fit perfectly with no overhang and do not appear to have been modified . I have another grip set that also fits perfectly. I looked at the butt and now I do see the difference in the bluing. Thank you guys for the information.

Since this is such an informative thread on the subject, I thought I'd resurrect it instead of making a new post.

Just got this one a week ago. I guess this might be the first year of stamped Mod 32 (1957-58?), since it's number is 88278.



The original grips are excellent and are in the safe. I'd never say I bought a 60 yr old gun that was "unfired", but I will say this....After one range session of 30 rounds, the turn line, though still nearly invisible, is greater than it was when I brought it home.

It's the first gun I ever thought could wear maple grips, so I made some. The wife says "it's cute", so I guess they're appropriate.

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Carry.."hope" isn't a strategy

...great little revolver...and the grips and stand are OUTSTANDING...

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A Country Boy Can Survive

I think OP should return the gun to the dealer and demand his money back. If the dealer refuses, notify BATF and request instructions. The very threat of that should make the dealer issue a refund.


Use the money to buy a .38 Special, Model 36, or stainless Model 60. The .38 S&W is an ineffective cartridge, and there was no valid reason to buy a Terrier after S&W introduced the Chief Special in 1950.


I saw a few Terriers back in the 1970's and hated them, because that was time and material that S&W could have used to make more M-36's, which were in short supply then, as were most popular models.


I realize that my opinion isn't universal, but I think it makes sense.


A .38/32 Terrier isn't a model number issue. It just means a .38 made on a .32 frame. I can't believe that no one pointed this out on this board.


A .38 Special is a pretty effective cartridge, with careful ammo selection. The .38 S&W is just plain anemic. A snubnosed .32 is even worse.

Yes, the deal should be reversed. There is no good way to make that gun legal.

That's one sweet New I frame.

#812XX is the Earliest and lowest # New I frame Terrier stamped Mod 32.

Very 1st thing I do to any newly acquired revolver is polish the cyl bolt to mitigate the cyl line. It makes a big difference. After that I don't give it a 2nd thought.

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Jim
S&WCA #819

Jim, that sounds like something I need to learn to do. "polish the cyl bolt".

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Matthew Conrad

Jim,

In post 16 you said "Models became 32 & 33, c. #88XXX "

In post 24 you said " It's just barely a model stamped example since they began in the 88XXX serial range, and I would date yours (88072) to 1958."

but post 72 seems to be at odds..

"#812XX is the Earliest and lowest # New I frame Terrier stamped Mod 32."

Can you clarify?

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Carry.."hope" isn't a strategy

Mike,

Post 16 is 4 years old and as new data becomes available, I add it to my database continuously.

CYLINDER STOP TRACK

You'll see in other posts, that not all care about this issue and are quick to tell you. The cylinder line scribed by the cylinder stop is about the most obvious sign of wear. Not just a sign of shooting but also of cycling, opening for checking, or loading and unloading. If you aren't already aware, there are two things that you can do to mitigate or minimize cyl scribing:

1st HANDLING:

When you close the cylinder on a double action, with your left hand grasp it around the bottom of the frame with thumb and forefinger each in the cylinder flutes opposite each other. Position them at 3:00 and 9:00 o'clock just as the cylinder locks into place. The cyl stop will lock into the stop notch w/o having to rotate the cylinder with cyl stop rubbing on its surface. This will become a habit whenever you close a double action cylinder and you'll no longer have to think about doing it. This will prevent a FULL CYLINDER RING and limit it to an interrupted ring, and show a properly handled revolver.

2nd POLISHING THE CYLINDER STOP:

To mitigate “cylinder stop track" for all SA and DA revolvers - preventative action you can take and the 1st thing I do on any revolver of mine, new or used is pull the cylinder (or open it, in the case of DAs) and polish the cylinder latch!

Many come with file marks just waiting to carve out a line and groove in your cylinder finish! Stainless guns are the worst, they can gouge like aluminum. I have to look at the cyl stop surface with a 10 power jeweler's loop or my 10x gunsmith glasses (which are excellent eye protection as well) to truly see if the stop needs polishing. What looks good to my naked eye can be bad enough to mark up the cylinder. The sharp stop edges can really do damage and don't need to be knife edge sharp to function properly with a nice tight lock up.

Swing out or remove the cyl and I mask off the frame and breech face all around the stop with blue masking tape because I use a Dremel tool and it can slip off the stop. I wear my gunsmith 10x glasses and look for any irregularities. If there are any marks, I use a VERY FINE abrasive wheel in the Dremel tool to polish out the file marks, etc., but I don't touch the sharp edges or change the contour of the bolt unless it needs slight re-contouring to center it in the cylinder notch leads. If no file marks, I go straight to polishing.

With a little felt buffing wheel in the Dremel and white rouge (used for stainless steel) I put a mirror finish on the top surface. This is when I also address the sharp edges; I leave them nice and square but just dull the knife edge with the buffing wheel and the rouge. And I don't overdo it.

It only takes 10 minutes including masking and cleanup.

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Jim
S&WCA #819

Jim,

Thanks, I'll take 812xxx as the start date.

I handle DA revolvers the same way. Because of the opposite rotation it's even more effective with a Colt than a Smith since the bolt drops into the leade before it settles into the notch, never touching the polished cylinder.

I've accepted the drag line as a fact of life but it still dampens the fun of shooting a new revolver for the first few times. In a perfect world all would be timed such that the bolt drops straight down into the notch.

I have an early, 4-digit, Blackhawk that I had Turnbull refinish. Since the refinish it has had well over 1,000 rounds through it and the there is absolutely no trace of a line...I like to hold it up to the light and watch the bolt retract and drop as the cylinder turns and wish they could all be like that.

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Carry.."hope" isn't a strategy