short throw parts in long throw action

dkp9782 · #1 07-31-2011, 05:58 PM

Question, will the internals from a more modern short throw action k-frame smith fit into a post or pre-war M&P with the long action? reason I ask is J&G has snubby model 10 parts kits, less the frame. Can sometimes pickup the older k-frames, damaged, cheap. Thought it might be a fun winter project. Thanks in advance. You guys never cease to amaze me!

PhilOhio · #2 07-31-2011, 07:19 PM

I did exactly what you want to do, twice. Here's enough info to get you started. First time, I couldn't believe it worked. So I did it again. That worked too, but everything's easier the second time.

Your postwar kit should come with a sideplate, which should fit the prewar frame almost perfectly. On a metal lathe, make a sharply pointed pin whose shank perfectly fits the hammer axis pin hole in the side plate. It must be just long enough so you can put the plate on the gun and, with wood block and hammer, tap the plate to mark the frame for the point to drill and tap a new hammer axis pin hole.

Unscrew the existing pin from the prewar frame, carefully weld up the hole from both sides, and machine it off flush. If you don't mess up much metal, you might even get by with some minor cold bluing on the frame.

Insert the threaded pin at its new forward location, and the rest of the parts installation should be pretty easy. Depending on how accurately you placed the new hole, you may or may not have to do some very minor fitting so the firing pin clears everything in the old frame as it passes through its forward arc.

But the whole thing is a good project, not expensive, and there are lots of canibalized Victory frames out there, for cheap...like the ones Sarco had (may still have) for $29.95.

This is really even easier than it sounds. You only have to accurately drill and tap one hole. Don't be afraid to give it a try. And don't over-weld that old hole. A split second of arc welding will do it. TIG or MIG would be better, but ain't got that. Don't overheat the frame and warp something.

You could even skip the welding and use Loktite to hold in place a threaded headless filler screw, as is done in sight mount holes. That makes the project ridiculously easy.

I guess J&G is going to have a run on those snubby kits now. I got my two from Century for something like $50 or $60 each. So I have two nice K-frame snubbies for under $100 each, including the original S&W adjustable rear sight for one ($14 from Numrichs). Fun doesn't have to be expensive if you keep your eyes open.