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S&W Hand Ejectors: 1896 to 1961 All 5-Screw & Vintage 4-Screw SWING-OUT Cylinder REVOLVERS, and the 35 Autos and 32 Autos


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Old 09-14-2011, 08:07 PM
Ken77539 Ken77539 is offline
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Default Help identifying my revolver

Several months ago, I was given what I believe is a .32 Hand Ejector. Along the top of the ~ 4-1/4" barrel is stamped "Smith and Wesson Springfield Mass USA" followed by 8 patent dates starting with April 9, 1889 and ending with July 7, 1903. On the left side of the barrel is stamped "32 LONG CTG". Serial number is 36XXX. Right side plate cover is held in place by 4 screws. There is a 5th screw just forward of the trigger guard (not sure what this one is for yet), and one on the forward edge of the grip which appears to adjust spring pressure and trigger "pull". Grips appear to be a black hard rubber or plastic with the S&W logo at the top.



In addition to help in identifying my revolver, I would appreciate any suggestions / leads as to where I might get repair / replacement parts (NOS if they exist), information on possible part interchangability with other S&W revolvers, and sources of literature I can use toward the repair and maintenance of this piece.

Thanks in advance
Ken
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Old 09-14-2011, 08:32 PM
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Ken, welcome to the forum.

That's an oldie. It is a .32 Hand Ejector Model of 1903, First change. The factory probably shipped it in 1904 or 1905.

This is a gun built on S&W's small I frame. Small parts like screws will be interchangeable with other I frames. Major parts (hammer and trigger for example) may be harder to replace as the 1903-1906 years were a period of rapid subtle evolution in the mechanical design of S&W revolvers. For example, in 1906 this gun's trigger rebound mechanism changed from the flat spring you have in your gun to a sliding block with an internal coil spring that is still used in S&W revolvers today.

If you need parts, check with Poppert's Gun Parts, Jack First Gun in South Dakota and Dave Chicoine's operation, Old West Gunsmith. You can find all of these guys with Google.

Dave Chicoine has written some books that may be of use to you. Also, look for the Kuhnhausen shop manual for general info on working with S&W revolvers. It may be hard to find narratives that directly address the internals of your particular revolver because it is so old, but that's why this forum exists.

The fifth screw you mentioned covers a plunger and spring that tensions the cylinder stop. That's the little piece you can see in front of the trigger that rotates up and down as the gun cycles.
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Old 09-14-2011, 08:46 PM
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Ken, welcome to the forum. What parts are you looking for? Some of the folks here might have what you need in an old shoebox.
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Old 09-14-2011, 08:54 PM
Muley Gil Muley Gil is online now
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"...and one on the forward edge of the grip which appears to adjust spring pressure and trigger 'pull'."

No, it is not there to adjust the pull. It should always be snugged up tight.
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Old 09-15-2011, 12:22 PM
Ken77539 Ken77539 is offline
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Default Thanks all

First off I want to thank everyone for your help and contributing to my on-going education.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DCWilson View Post
. . . .This is a gun built on S&W's small I frame. . .
Your right there - in my big "moose" hands this gun is tiny.



I thought it was an old .32 Hand Ejector but could never nail it down specifically. From the limited amount of research I was able to do on this firearm, I knew there were several "Changes" made to this piece. Going by the info you provided, I'm going to venture a guess that the "First Change" designation probably signified the first modification made since the original patented model.

Also I wanted to thank you for the leads on the parts and literature. The revolver still shoots, although I do have a cylinder timing issue when firing in SA mode. A thorough cleaning and relube did not help - so some parts replacing may be in order once I learn more about the gun and the issue.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JSR III View Post
. . What parts are you looking for? Some of the folks here might have what you need in an old shoebox..
At this time I'm basically looking for resources. This is my first S&W and my first "antique" handgun. I may eventually look for a replacement barrel (if one exists) as mine does show some pitting, and I may be in need of some parts to correct my timing issue mentioned above, but before I start replacing parts I want to be more familiar with the overall mechanics of the revolver.

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Originally Posted by Muley Gil View Post
. . No, it is not there to adjust the pull. It should always be snugged up tight.
And that is how it will stay. Thanks for the warning.


Thanks
Ken
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Old 09-15-2011, 01:18 PM
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With hands like that you could play great stride piano! If an I-frame looks that small in your hand, I bet an M frame .22 would almost disappear.

Timing could be related to the function of the hand, the part that lifts against the cylinder ratchet and turns the cylinder on a trigger pull. That is fortunately an easy-to-replace part once you get a new one, but it requires a bit of fitting to function correctly. It's not the worst gunsmithing task to undertake. Or you might need a new cylinder stop -- also not a tough job if you take your time to fit it properly.
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Old 06-28-2012, 08:29 PM
gandl2123 gandl2123 is offline
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Default Very Interesting.....I too....

I too...have located this weapon 288xx as a first S&W antique fire arm.

I too...have had trouble finding parts and am using Jacks First.

I too...have trouble with the SA (Single Action) of my revolver and like you said I got into the working of the mechanisms and found that the small piece that hangs off the front of the hammer part is getting caught at the top of the trigger part. After disassembly I noticed that the parts that are supposed to slide along are catching and may need replaced or a gunsmith's file placed in the perfect spot to allow for them to slide along again. If you take off the side plate of this weapon and wiggle the cylinder slide (push button to open cylinder) you will notice that it may allow you the SA to work a bit better. When apart you will see the worn contact there.

Yes, 1904-05 is a great guess for when this weapon was made and it does seem to be the 1st change. Tell me how much you would take for parts and I will guy yours or tell me how much you wold give me for mine and I will sell it to you so one of us can have a nice gun.
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