Hey Guys.....I need your help and advice...after surfing the Internet for over two weeks and hitting various gun shops.....finally....found the Victory Model .38 Special that I want.....it has the Lanyard Ring in Butt....and Original Wood Grips...Parkerized finish and from the photos the dealer has sent me and what the salesman has said...its just about Mint....(there is no Government stamping tho)......anyway....two questions......is there someone on the Forum that could give me some information if I furnish them the serial number.....and also....since it is marked .38 Special.....I plan on shooting that in it....however.....is it a big no-no to shoot +P in it..?....Im thinking with the Quality of a Smith & Wesson there shouldnt be a problem......but would just like to hear from some of you guys that have the experience......I appreciate any advice and anyone taking the time to answer.....Regards......Hans Fischer

Hans,
There are a couple of guys that keep a Victory DB and can get close with a s/n. They should be along shortly. As for +P that is a basket of worms. It will shoot them possibly from now own. But some of the guys will tell you don't, some will say yes shoot them all you want. I don't shoot +p because if I want more than a reg .38 spl I will drag out a .357. All of my reloads are on the warmer side of standard factory loads in most of the 20 to 30 calibers I can load and I have never had a problem with my old Smiths from my 1903 M&P to new stuff.
I guess it is to say shoot +P if you want if the gun is sound enough.
Hope this helps,
Larry

If the original rollmark on the side of the barrel says "38 S&W SPECIAL CTG" the gun was indeed originally chambered for that round. If the .38 SPECIAL stamp is on the frame, or the underside of the barrel, it may be a converted commonwealth contract or lend/lease gun. It would help to know the serial number (or most of it) and see some pics. What is the barrel length?

I'm unsure why a parkerized Victory would not have government property marks on it, but maybe I'm just not up to speed on the varieties of Victory and pre-Victory revolvers.

My rule of thumb is not to shoot +P .38 Special ammo in K-frame revolvers that predate 1948. There may be no harm in an occasional round through a Victory, but I would not make them a steady diet. (But I'd shoot +P rounds in a prewar Heavy Duty all day long without a moment's worry.)

__________________
David Wilson

Hans,

If you post or e-mail me the full serial number, the database will give you a pretty good approximation of when it shipped from the factory. The lack of any "U.S. PROPERTY" markings on the top strap would indicate it was a gun intended for a non-military user such as a police officer, defense plant security guard, etc.

As to the issue of ammo usage in a WW2-era gun, let me posit this: I like old cars and I like to drive fast. If I'm going to drive the 400+ miles to Big Bend National Park along Interstate 10 where the speed limit goes up to 85mph, would I prefer driving a 1940 Chevy or a 21st Century coupe? Both *will* get me there, but one seems to be a clear choice. Unless the Victory were my only gun, I'd use something else for home- and self-defense; if the Victory was my only handgun, I'd lay in a supply of the recently reintroduced Federal Nyclad STANDARD pressure hollowpoints.

Steve
[email protected] (and remove the "NOSPAM," of course)

Hi Larry.....Thanks for your note....Ive put the gun on hold with a dealer.....and have looked at quite a number of photos of it...and talked at good length with the salesman.....and he also stated it was one of the nicest Victory Models they have sold......4" Barrel...Parkerized finish...Lanyard Ring and Swivel ....and the ad states "In overall Excellent Condition.".....I appreciate any and all advice/help.....Thanks....Hans Fischer

Just sent PM with Serial # and information

Siiiiigghh...

"I don't shoot +p because if I want more than a reg .38 spl I will drag out a .357."

Again, +P IS "regular" 38 ammo. It is not loaded to high pressures. In fact, current +P is loaded 3,000 PSI BELOW maximum allowable pressure.

Again, here is my 1942 V Model with some of the 500 factory +Ps and 600 of my own +P+s (125 JHP @ 1150 FPS) I shot through it to see if anything would happen. It didn't.

I see no reason whatsoever to strain a 70 year old gun with +p's. why take a chance (slight though it may be) of damage a classic colectible gun?

You are still operating under the assumption that +P ammo will strain your gun. It will not. Again, for the 100th time, +P is not a hot load. It is loaded well BELOW maximum allowable pressures. How will it strain your gun?

Today's +p ammo comes ALMOST up to the pressures of "standard" .38 ammo from the 60s and 70s. Don't worry about it. At all.

Does that "no worries" comment include Buffalo Bore ammo?

This info was taken from Buffalo Bore's website:



Heavy .38 Special +P Ammo - 158 gr. L.S.W.C.H.P. --G.C. (1,000fps/M.E. 351 ft.lbs.) - 20 Round Box


Heavy .38 Special +P Ammo - 125 gr. L.V. Jacketed Hollow Point (1,050fps/M.E. 306 ft. lbs.) - 20 Round Box

The 158 grain loading is about the same as the max listed load I found in my 45th edition of the Lyman loading manual.

__________________
John 3:16
WAR EAGLE!

Boy...that sure is a raggedy ole gun....let me do you a favor and take it off your hands for $200.00 ////you know Im kidding....that one is a BEAUTY....and I appreciate the info on the plus P......tell me about the grips on your pistol...as I looked at a Victory Model that had the same type grips....and I just thought someone swapped out the old plain wooden grips for the newer style..???????....Im just on the ground floor trying to learn about Victory models...any help is appreciated....again....that one is a Beaut...!!!!

I have a 38 s&w spl on one side of the barrel smith & wesson on the other, when you open the cylinder there is a 10024 and on the bottom of the grip a 96129. Any help but be most appreciated.

You are tapping into a very old thread. I suggest you start a new thread with the following information supplied:
1. Some good pictures
2. The exact SN from the butt - including any letter prefixes
3. Do the principal SNs match? (butt, under barrel, and rear face of cylinder)
4. What is the exact caliber stamping on the barrel?
5. Is there anything stamped on the topstrap (above the cylinder)? If so, what?
6. What is the barrel length measured from the front face of the cylinder to the muzzle?
7. Are the grips smooth or checkered wood? Or possibly plastic?
8. Is the finish blued, a rough gray/black, or nickel plated?

That will help us make a good ID. Thanks.

I too have a Victory model (.38 special) without the US Prorerty marking. I agree with LWCmdr45 that guns not so marked were probably intended for domestic use.
Mine is serial#V150699 and it has done a tour of duty in the nightstand drawer in years past

Jon.

Just stick with .38 Spl. ammo if you get the revolver. Have fun and you wont need to worry about it at all.
I see no reason to use +P ammo in my Victory .38. OF COURSE i do own a .357 if more punch is needed.
Have fun, stay safe and dont worry.
Just my opinion.
Jim

There are thousands of Victory Models that were not military guns and they are easy to identify as there are no military markings, except an occasion inspector's stamp on a part somewhere because the parts were inspected as they were made and then later used to assemble a gun that happened to be included in a non military (civilian) shipment to a war plant or to a police department, etc. Sometimes these guns were stamped after market by the owners, such as General Electric, Ford Motor Co, Civil Defense, etc. Ed.