Greetings threadposters! I am new to this forum and just inherited a S&W .38 Special revolver and was wondering if I posted pics and gave a serial if I could have some help in identifying model #/year of make, etc. Please forgive me for being probably the 100,000,000th poster about this kind of thing...

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Here is a better picture of it...the serial number location appears to be on bottom of grip and is 2054XX.

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Welcome to the forum and congratulation on giving most of the necessary information to answer your question in the initial post.There will be others here in a little while that can probably pin the year of production down pretty close based on the serial number and style of grips pictured.

I've curious about the holster. Is there any makers mark or other information stamped on the back? The holster could be as valuable as the revolver in this case.

Jesse, welcome to the forum. The are approximately 100,000,000 of us who love questions like this because it gives us a chance to look knowedgeable.

Your gun is a .38 Military & Police Model of 1905, Third Change. It was probably made about 1912, give or take a year. If it is mechanically sound, there is no reason not to shoot it. But don't use any +P or +P+ ammunition in it, as the pressures generated by such ammo are higher than what this gun was asked to contain. It should be safe to shoot standard .38 Special ammo in it, but I restrict myself to low-pressure 148 gr wadcutter match ammo in my old M&Ps.

The whole M&P series, which began in 1899 and still continues today (though with many engineering changes and improvements), was the most successful line S&W ever introduced. Several million units of this basic configuration have been produced in the last 112 years.

ADDENDUM: You should also see the serial number on the rear face of the cylinder and the flat underside of the barrel. there are a couple of other places, too, but the numbers are harder to see there.

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David Wilson

Actually, the gun was designed to use ammo with a maximum chamber pressure of 21,500 PSI (as were all 38 Specials) and factory +P is loaded to 16,500 PSI so in theory factory +P would pose no risk at all. But, with the vagary of metal tempering before 1925-1930 I would also eschew anything other than mild target loads in such a gun. That's why I don't own oldtimers like this. I like to shoot my guns without concern.

That's a good thing SaxonPig - more early HEs for the rest of us.

For Jessie, don't be concerned about shooting these early revolvers with standard loads and light bullets. If the action is tight and lockup is solid, shoot it.

Besides, I prefer not to beat myself up when I go to the range, so I never shoot heavy loads unless checking velocities or accuracy for personal defense ammo. Light loads are lots of fun to shoot and much cheaper than +Ps.

These older S&W revolvers are my favorite. Triggers smooth as butter; from the days when gun parts were hand fitted.

I cannot tell you guys how much I appreciate the information! This pistol was owned by my great grandfather. My grandmother passed away last week and she thought I would like to have this since I am a firearms enthusiast. Before I came across this pistol, I mainly was interested in modern firearms but this has sparked my interest in older firearms. The more I look at older pistols and firearms, the more I am realizing that those were the days when firearms were really MADE by craftsmen. As far as the .38 Special goes, the action is surprisingly good. The cylinder's movement is solid and smooth. The trigger is VERY smooth (like you wouldn't believe out of an old gun like this). The only thing that is EVER so slightly sticky is the function of opening the cylinder assembly. It feels as though, with some TLC it could really get back to being a great shooter. I am experienced enough w/ modern firearms to know NOT to do anything to this gun w/o consulting an gunsmith/expert first (and maybe not even after that myself). I've heard horror stories of people completely ruining antique firearms by "fixing" or "restoring" them on their own.

Hi Jesse, welcome to the place. Since you are used to modern guns, you probably have spray cleaners at home. Use this at the base of the crane and at the base of the ejector rod, and then as you extend the ejector rod spray it under there as well. Work them back and forth and it should free them up. Then a drop of oil at each of those locations.

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Always bet on stupidity.

The holster was given to me along with the pistol and is very very nice! It appears to have natural wear and in what I would say great shape for something as old as it is. I am just going to post a dropbox link to the holster pics I have amongst others. I flipped the holster over and examined it closely. It doesn't have any markings/lettering or anything on it that I can see anywhere. I did also verify the serial number on the rear of the cylinder, underneath the barrel near the rear and also underneath the grip all match each other. Again, thanks for the information gentlemen! You've been more helpful than you know!

Sorry, here is a link to my Public folder:

https://www.dropbox.com/home/Smith%2...s=1#/Public:::

Thanks Deacon! I also use CLP Break-Free on my modern firearms. Is CLP ok to use on this revolver? I was going to do the ol' rod through the barrel but didn't want to do anything without checking with other more experienced people first...I also use RemOil from time to time. I didn't know if using those kinds of things would be ok on older guns like this or if you had to use different cleaners for older antique firearms?

CLP is fine - Remoil is fine, although a bit lighter.

Tell us more about the sticky cylinder. With the cylinder open, is the
thumbpiece sticky to move back and forth ? Also with the cylinder
open, you'll see the center pin slightly protruding through the center
of the extractor. Can you press it in, or does that feel sticky ?
With the cylinder open, does it spin freely, or is it sticky, or perhaps
binding ?

Mike Priwer

Opened the cylinder: thumbpiece will not move while cylinder is open at all, center pin moves very easily with no trouble whatsoever...the cylinder spins when it is open pretty easily...just ever so slightly sticky but not bad. It does not bind at all, its smooth, just a hair sticky feeling. The action is pretty good when cocked and dry fired. It does not bind.
Jesse

Correction, I'm a dummy the thumbpiece does move very easily while the cylinder is in the open position! No binding at all or sticky feeling.

Anybody have any idea what the value of this gun is? (.38 Special Military&Police 1905, Third Change)

In that condition, maybe $250-300. Some would not go over $200 for it, and others would not be interested at all. The .38 M&P models are not rare, and they bring high prices only in the best of condition. That one would be valued as a shooter grade gun.

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David Wilson

Cool, thanks a bunch! To me, given that this gun has been in my family it is priceless! I will keep this one around and as long as the barrel/bore checks out at a smith...I'll be shooting this one soon! Hopefully, one day, God willing, my son will shoot it too! Pretty awesome stuff!

It's a little late now, but don't store the gun in the holster.

Leather attracts moisture. The moisture will cause your gun to rust.

hey guys I was wondering if you all could give me a value or any other info on this smith i got. i believe its a pre model 1899 38. it is marked on the side of the 6" barrel "38 s&W special ctg." says smith and has some pattent numbers on the top of the barrel. has the smith logo on the right side, and on both grips. serial number only has four digits 775*. any info would be great. thanks

Welcome to the forum. Is that serial number taken from the butt of the revolver? Do you see the same number on the flat underside of the barrel and the rear surface of the revolver?

What is the last patent date you see in the patent block on top of the barrel?

It would be great if you could post photos. You can either post [IMG] links to photos on image hosting services like Photobucket, or you can use the "Manage Attachments" button on the forum's post composition page to upload straight from your computer to the forum.

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David Wilson

photo can be seen at photobucket.com/smithvalue

it is on the butt, and on the back of the cylinder. i will have to check the last pattent date i am not at home right now.
thanks

Yup, that's a model of 1899, also called the .38 M&P First Model. Other 1899s with nearby serial numbers shipped in 1900, so the odds are good (but not certain) that yours did too.

Don't worry about the last patent date now; we have it nailed down.

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David Wilson

any idea on a value?

A lot depends on reliability of action, original factory finish or refinish, and whether all small parts are there, but I'd guess about $300-350. Maybe a little more if it's better than I think I see in the photo. A little less if it's not quite as good as it appears.

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David Wilson

cool thanks its original finish, all mechanics are good and all parts are there. I am asking 350 for it, so i was about right on my thinking.
thanks for the help.