OK have a stablemate for my SW686 (my only other wheel gun) I know it's a 32/20 but not much more for certain. Numbers on the frame under the ejector are 12XXX and on the Cylinder 298XXX. on the grips patent June 5, 1917. ANY comments are very welcome as I don't collect older firearms(Have lots but what I do have I Shoot ie mosin nagants, mausers, M1's). Blueing is mostly gone but limited pitting and the internals, operation and barrel rifleing are perfect. My question really comes down to
1) Should I shoot this as I feel it is perfectly operational
2) keep it as is
3) reblue it
4) restore it
5) leave it as is

Well the one thing I can tell you is that it is a 32 S&W Long, not a 32/20. Probably a prewar I frame. I would check to make sure all is ok and then shoot it!
Ed

Yes. It is an I frame revolver and appears to be a Regulation Police with a 4 1/4" barrel from about 1917. Is the serial number stamped on the front strap behind and below the trigger guard?
It is in pretty rough shape, but would be a perfectly good shooter. I vote for option 1.

FYI - the .32-20 revolvers were all K frame guns. Marking will either be 32 WCF, 32 Winchester or 32-20, depending on when the gun was made. The .32 Long is a completely different cartridge and the ammo is still pretty easy to find.

Regards,
JP

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Jack
SWCA #2475, SWHF #318

Jack is correct -- .32 Regulation Police, but I think that is the 3-1/4" barrel.

The serial number should be visible on the forestrap behind the trigger guard. Is the second digit a 9? Can't quite read it off the back of the cylinder. (The serial number was repeated on different parts, including the flat underside of the barrel.) The five digit number on the frame under the barrel is a process control number that means nothing once the serial numbers go on the gun.

If you give the bore and chambers some attention and clean up the surface, that will probably make a great shooter. the .32 Long can be a very accurate round, though it is not particularly powerful.

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David Wilson

Droptop, go with option 1&2. I have several of the I frames, running from worse than yours to almost perfect and ages from 1903 to 1955. The .32s and are great fun to shoot and if you reload you can shoot for the same price as .38s, 9mm etc. Be careful though, several of us around here have the dreaded I frame addiction with no cure in sight.
Larry

I will happily defer to the more knowledgeable expert, who obviously has a more practiced eye as well.
Note distance from locking lug to muzzle. Nice catch.
Thanks, David.
Jack

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Jack
SWCA #2475, SWHF #318

Congratulations, the RP's are very accurate and are quite elegant revolvers. The 3-1/2" barreled models fit nicely in a trouser pocket. If it's a good shooter and is not pitted, it should reblue nicely, if you care to go that route.

I like choices 1 & 5, using either 32 S&W Long factory loads with either lead RN or WC bullets, or preferably some nice mild reloads. I have the exact same gun in 6" and 2" (round butt) variants and they are more fun than ought to be legal! Congratulations on a neat find.

Froggie

PS When you discover how cool it is and decide you are going to keep it forever, you might want to have it refinished, but then again, it may be like that comfortable old pair of jeans by then that you won't want to change a bit.

I am totally not interested in seeing somebody's re-nickled/re-blued gun that has all the corners rounded and the roll marks blurred.

Its not like you need to get that gun ready for war.

Leave it as is!

Would THIS GUN be more interesting if it were re-finished???

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WWSSD?
What would Skeeter do?

droptop,

You have received a lot of good info on your .32 Regulation Police. The only thing the other forum members forgot is this:

WELCOME TO THE S&W FORUM!!!!!!!

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John 3:16
WAR EAGLE!