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S&W Hand Ejectors: 1896 to 1961 All 5-Screw & Vintage 4-Screw SWING-OUT Cylinder REVOLVERS, and the 35 Autos and 32 Autos


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  #1  
Old 03-13-2012, 08:55 PM
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Default Stuck 38 US Victory

Suggestions please.... US Victory will not release the swing out cylinder. The button does not move. No obvious damage, the cylinder operates on trigger pull.

Thanks!
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Old 03-13-2012, 09:14 PM
Balvar24 Balvar24 is offline
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Maybe the ejector rod has been bent, binding it up. Try unlocking it on each cylinder.
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Old 03-13-2012, 09:29 PM
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I had a revolver do this once. The spring loaded pin in the front ejector rod lug was frozen. Squirted it with WD40, let it set a while, and tapped it with a plastic hammer. Loosened it right up.
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Old 03-13-2012, 09:45 PM
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Sometimes the knurled end on the ejector rod rattles loose about a half turn. Try tightening it with your fingers, it may move toward the frame just enough........
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Old 03-13-2012, 09:55 PM
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If the cylinder release doesn't move, I would think the bolt has moved back far enough that the circular end of the bolt (which pushes on the end of the center pin to release the cylinder) has been pushed to the side a hair and is in conflict with the frame of the revolver under the firing pin hole. Tap the thumb release with the nylon handle of a screwdriver or some other non-marring hard thing and see if it will adjust its position. Another thing you could try is to put the gun on full cock and reach down in front of the hammer with something thin and hard. Manipulate the end of the bolt to see if it will pop back into position.
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Old 03-14-2012, 05:29 PM
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Would there access to that pin at the rear of the cylinder by removing the right side plate?
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Old 03-14-2012, 05:49 PM
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Removing the sideplate exposes all the internal parts. I would do this and watch the movement of all the parts while cocking the hammer. If it is a conflict with the hand, you can rotate it back out of the slot to see if it is binding up the cylinder. Parts should stay in place while cocking, but be careful to watch all parts while moving the hammer. Also, you can see the thumb slide to see if it is moving the ejector rod as it should.

The only time I have had problems like this is when the front ejector rod loosens and unscrews and prevents the cylinder from opening as Waidmann stated.
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Old 03-15-2012, 07:48 PM
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Same as above. First step is to try to tighten the ejector rod.
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Old 03-15-2012, 10:16 PM
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A previous owner of my Victory beat the heck out of it and broke the thumb piece trying to get the cylinder out. Just a loose ejector rod. Seems to be pretty common. Check that first (righty tighty).
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Old 03-15-2012, 10:34 PM
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when I bought my Victory it had a loose rod and would do the same thing
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Old 03-16-2012, 10:44 AM
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If it is not the ejector rod, it could be crud build up inside the frame not allowing the thumb piece to move forward. Using a correctly fitting screwdriver, remove the thumb piece screw and thumb piece, and put several drops of Kroil all around the slide area tipping the gun to let it flow in all directions. Let sit for a maybe 15-30 minutes, then try and move forward.
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  #12  
Old 03-16-2012, 11:37 AM
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The hammer must be all the way forward, before the thumbpiece can
be moved. The rear of the bolt is blocked by the hammer, unless it is
all the way forward.

A loose extractor nob, or rod, has nothing to do with moving the
bolt via the thumbpiece. A loose rod/nob will prevent the cylinder
from opening, but will not impeed the movement of the center pin.
The OP said the button does not move, so either the hammer is not
all the way forward, or the center pin is frozen in its travel path, or
as SP suggests, the locking pin in the extractor lug is stuck. If the
hammer will retreat, you can remove the side plate, remove the
hammer, and then tap the forward end of the bolt - the piece to
which the thumbpiece is attached. That might jar loose whatever is
hanging up the center pin.

Mike Priwer
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ejector, extractor, screwdriver, sideplate, thumbpiece, victory


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