I posted earlier about my .32 pistol and received a great deal of excellent information: 32 Hand Ejector, 3rd Edition Questions

I have just bought a 6" nickel barrel on Gunbroker and should have it in a week or so. My question, is as the title says, can I replace the barrel myself with some instruction or is it definitely a gunsmith job?

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SWCA # 2894
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I would call it an advanced DIY project. To do it 'by the book' requires some specialty gunsmith tools. That said, I have probably replaced 10 S&W revolver barrels in my basement. With a little bit of luck, it won't take too much hand fitting (but it will always take some). If the old barrel is trashed, then it's a bit simpler because you can use a pipe wrench or clamp it in your vise. The old method (which could result in a bent frame) was to put the barrel in the vice, then use a board (or hammer handle) in the frame opening to unscrew it (after driving out the barrel pin, of course). I have removed some that didn't take much effort at all and there was no risk of torquing the frame. With the replacement barrel, the odds are against it timing (lining up with the front sight at 12 o'clock) and the barrel-cylinder gap being correct. A pro will adjust both of these on a lathe. I've done both with hand tools. A proper hole drilled in an oak block plus files and sandpaper. Then a barrel bushing made from various brass or copper tubing used with a properly sized countersink bit. etc., etc. You get the point. It can be done if you have some skill. It's time consuming (but cheap if you consider your labor to be free).
I've always looked at it this way: Before the industrial age, gunsmiths turned out works of art by hand using very basic tools and an oil lamp for light. If I take my time and use modern hand tools, I can do the same.

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Chris
SWCA #2243 SWHF #292

Thanks. I am encouraged. I have done some parts replacement and trouble shooting for a local gun shop so I have some knowledge of what I can and cannot do. I can make two sets of wooden blocks for the barrel and frame. As you said, it may take a little time but I'm retired with some spare time. The barrel fitting will probably be the most time consuming depending on where the new barrel/front sight lines up.

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SWCA # 2894
NRA Life Member

Pastprime,
Good luck with your project. Take some before and after pics and let us know how it comes out. If it comes out great, we'll cheer. If not, we'll commiserate with ya. I am always interested in DYI projects and hope your result exceeds your expectations.

Indeed! Good luck with this.

The Kunhausen Book(s) ought to be useful.

I bought them some years ago and now I will have to try and figure out where they are so I can refer to them for myh own possible Project or two.

Go for it! It's one of the simplest tasks to accomplish for a relatively inexperienced home gunsmith. Line the blocks with some thick leather to avoid any marking in the vise. After drifting out the pin, lubricate the barrel threads (soaking is best for 24 hrs. +) with a penetrating lubricant of your choice. The rest is very simple, slow and evenly distributed, applied force through the frame. DO NOT force or jerk the frame, be gentle.

Install the replacement barrel. Range time....adjust front sight with lead hammer, just like they did back when.

Cheers;
Lefty

PS:
I don't know about nickel finish plating and if it might flake or crack "adjusting" the fixed front sight. I've only done this on blue guns.

Has anyone ever tried using JB Weld to make a set of soft jaws that fit tie contour of a revolver frame? I was thinking this might be a way to avoid tweaking the frame in the process. John

The jaw sets I made for revolvers over the years are hard wood block roughed out so the frame or bbl set into them a little over 1/2 the depth. Nothing fancy. Then I bedded the part w/Brownells bedding compound,,standard stuff in the shop at the time.

Then I filed (no mill at the time!) the somewhat overly deep inlet down so when the two 'jaws' are used there is clearance between them for clamping pressure.

On the bbl jaw set,,I always cut clearance around the area of the locking pin lug. If the bbl ever slipped or started to turn, I didn't want that small lug to take the torque and twist. Probably overkill as I never had a problem. But watch the assembly to make sure nothing slips as you begin applying pressure to remove the frame from the bbl. They usually come off easily, but take it easy on them.
Full shroud bbls like HD's, I allowed the area to remain bedded fully.

A set for the frame,,a set for the bbl.
A standard bench vise can then be used for bbl removal though I usually put the assembly standing upright instead of outboard.
That was so the vise jaws clamping onto the bbl ran cross wise instead of length wise of the bbl.
I felt it was better than way and they wouldn't 'roll' in the jaws.

Leave the crane in the frame when casting the 'jaws'. Install it in the frame when removing the bbl and especially when re-installing it.
It will especially help in reducing the twisting of the frame in the latter process.
Just carefully inspect prior to either process to make sure there is going to be no interference between it and the bbl breech as it's rotated.

Alot of work (just time really) to make the jaw sets, especially multiple sets. But if you're going to work on these and other brands, they pay for themselves.
Now they make nylon sets you can buy I believe. I still like making my own tools and stuff like that when I can.

No reason something like JB Weld can work. I've never worked with it, but from what I've heard of it it should hold up for the occasional user. Certainly easy to obtain and use.

This is great information. I will refer to these post frequently as I proceed.
Thanks to everyone.
Hank

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SWCA # 2894
NRA Life Member