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S&W Hand Ejectors: 1896 to 1961 All 5-Screw & Vintage 4-Screw SWING-OUT Cylinder REVOLVERS, and the 35 Autos and 32 Autos


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Old 08-25-2012, 03:56 PM
kcub kcub is offline
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tiny screws on both sides presumably for windage, others on top

how does one adjust them properly?
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Old 08-25-2012, 04:22 PM
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With a tiny screwdriver...
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Old 08-25-2012, 04:33 PM
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As said above, with a small screw driver. A special small screwdriver came with gun originally, called a "Sight Adjustment tool" These are with around $1,000 today to collectors, as most got lost or were separated from the guns by previous owners. Do NOT attempt to adjust the rear sight with one of the small screw drivers commonly used for eyeglass repairs, etc. They will not correctly fit the slots in the sight screws and can mar the finish, or bugger the slot, thereby devaluating your gun by thousands of dollars, if the gun happens to be a 99%+ gun. If your RM is shooter condition, and that's why you want to change the sight settings, then use whatever tool you have to move the sight and you probably won't have lost much value, as the gun is not a collector grade gun, anyway. Good Luck, Ed.
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Old 08-25-2012, 05:26 PM
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Ok, more modern sights have one screw; why 2?
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Old 08-25-2012, 05:30 PM
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The windage adjustment is supposed to be easy but, I learned the hard way. Say you want the revolver to shoot more to the left. First back out the screw on the left slightly then tighten the screw on the right. That will move the sight leaf to the left. Be sure the screws are fairly tight because they will back out and the sight leaf will vanish. I've heard these screws are called "jam screws" since they hold the sight leaf with pressure from opposite sides. I'm glad S&W went to the "click" adjustments on their rear sight.
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Old 08-25-2012, 05:42 PM
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Windage: loosen both screws, adjust sight left or right with the screw that pushes it in the direction you need to move then tighten both screws.

Elevation: use the two screws immediately in front of the sight blade. Loosen the lock screw, the front one of the two. Adjust up and or down with the elevation screw, the rear one, then tighten down the lock screw.

Which ever screw driver you use, the critical issue is to confirm that the blade is thin enough to reach to the bottom of the screw slot to avoid jumping out of the slot and marring the slot or the guns finish.

Little Singer sewing machine screwdrivers are usually perfect but many quality ones can be found.

Here's the factory original S&W for the Pre war sights, used 1921 to 1939 (except the K22 2nd model, the Masterpiece):


Go here for complete information on S&W SATs.
http://smith-wessonforum.com/blogs/f...ewdrivers.html

Hope this helps,
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Old 08-25-2012, 05:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kcub View Post
Ok, more modern sights have one screw; why 2?
On the modern sights the one elev and one wind screw is tensioned by a check ball to provide the clicks and retain the adjustment. The screw is also 'captured' to prevent loss. Therefore lock or jam screws are no longer needed.

The earliest S&W sights did not even have two screws for elevation (no lock screw). The elevation screw was tensioned by the site tang with mediocre results and not just a few lost screws.
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Old 08-25-2012, 07:13 PM
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Thank you, gentlemen. That was very helpful.
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Old 08-26-2012, 10:41 AM
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I just tried the smallest (1.4mm) of a Stanley set of precision screwdrivers and it did not work. Suggestions on what would be suitable and/or correct size would be much appreciated.
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Old 08-26-2012, 07:36 PM
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See if you can find a set of watchmaker screw drivers.... look on ebay. I have a set and one of them worked fine for the RM.



Charlie
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Old 08-27-2012, 06:26 AM
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Bergeon Swiss Made Watchmakers Screwdrivers

Per this site one can buy sets or individual Swiss made screwdrivers.
It would be nice to know what size is actually needed.

Thanks again.
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Old 08-27-2012, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kcub View Post
tiny screws on both sides presumably for windage, others on top

how does one adjust them properly?
Lee posted a couple of great photos of the sights off of the gun. Sometimes, a photo is worth a 1,000 words, especially if you are a bit mechanical...

Here's a link to his post:

Sight adjustment on pre-war targets
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Old 08-27-2012, 12:17 PM
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I have a later model Harrington & Richardson "Defender" (Model 925, in .38 S&W) that has the identical two-screw windage adjustment system for its rear sight, and a screw-adjustable front sight for elevation. That system works well. However, recoil does loosen the rear sight screws, so after I got them adjusted properly, I put a dab of Super Glue on the screws and the rear sight blade to hold them in place. If I ever again need to move the rear sight, a slosh of acetone will dissolve and remove the Super Glue.

For that H&R (and all my other revolvers), my ordinary one-buck screwdriver set in a cheesy plastic case from the Dollar Store works fine. I've carried that same set in my range tool kit for at least 20 years. But the plastic case is taped together.
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Old 08-28-2012, 05:05 AM
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Still looking for the exact size screwdriver needed so I can save money from the link I posted if anyone knows.
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Old 08-28-2012, 05:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kcub View Post
Still looking for the exact size screwdriver needed so I can save money from the link I posted if anyone knows.
The tip of the factory SAT measures .017" thick x .087" wide. To convert millimeters to inches you DIVIDE mm's by 25.4 so the closest appears to be the 2.0 mm at .0787" but the thickness is not given.
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Last edited by Hondo44; 08-28-2012 at 05:46 AM.
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Old 08-28-2012, 08:08 AM
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Thanks, by thickness do you mean depth?

I'd like to get the exact size in the individual "drum barrel" type for use with right screws. They are offered in 1mm, 1.2mm, 1.4mm, 1.6mm and 1.8mm. I suppose the 1.8mm is the closest.
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Old 08-28-2012, 11:33 AM
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With most gun screws, for a truly correct fit, you're going to have to custom grind a screwdriver. Gunsmiths get very good at it because they do it a lot. It's not that hard to do.

A bench grinder will work, a slow speed one is better. If you don't have a slow speed grinder or a setup on a drill press dip the blade in water to keep it cool. If the tip changes color at all you've started pulling the temper out of it.

Last edited by Cooter Brown; 08-28-2012 at 02:29 PM.
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Old 08-28-2012, 07:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hondo44 View Post
The tip of the factory SAT measures .017" thick x .087" wide. To convert millimeters to inches you DIVIDE mm's by 25.4 so the closest appears to be the 2.0 mm at .0787" but the thickness is not given.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kcub View Post
Thanks, by thickness do you mean depth?
I'd like to get the exact size in the individual "drum barrel" type for use with right screws. They are offered in 1mm, 1.2mm, 1.4mm, 1.6mm and 1.8mm. I suppose the 1.8mm is the closest.
No, not depth. Think of the thickness of the tip as the width of the screw slot.

No, 1.8mm divided by 25.4 to convert to inches = only .071". See above: you need .087". As shown above, the 2.0 mm is the closest without being too wide for the screw slot. They didn't give the thickness of the tip on your linked site so you should call them to verify if it's close to the the .017" that you need.
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Old 08-28-2012, 08:07 PM
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Brownells has (or at least had several years ago) a set of six small "jeweler" type screwdrivers-------------one of which fits pre-war target sights just fine. The brand appears to be "F. D.". They are made in Germany.

Ralph Tremaine
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Old 08-28-2012, 09:30 PM
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The second smallest screwdriver in my "el cheapo" set of screwdrivers as previously mentioned is exactly 0.086" in width and the blade thickness is 0.011" at the tip (but of course that could be increased by shortening the blade tip with a sharpening stone). Visit your local dollar store.
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