What would be a period correct finish to be put on a non collectible .44 2nd Model HE?

For a gun I plan on keeping permanently.

Ford's has their Master Blue. Then there is a well done Rust Blue.

What would look 'right' on a 30's to 40's era gun?

I like Ford's Master Blue but it's almost to 'shiny bright' if that makes sense.

What would a Registered Magnum have had on it when they came out?

Thoughts & ideas?

Cheers, Allen

1930s era S & W revolvers had a deep, bright blue finish; many think it was the best era for their factory bluing. Amazing they could do this on a mass production basis.

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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

Allen, here are a couple of photos of a 44 HE 2nd Model, this should give you an idea of the factory finish you are looking for.

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John. SWCA #1586

Wow John that's beautiful! Is that a 5"?

Would Ford's Master Blue they list as #555 polish be similar?

I understand S&W's old style finish can't be exactly duplicated now days.

So trying to figure out what would be a close enough type finish.

Cheers, Allen

I had a Reg Mag that had Ford's master blue. It was HIGH POLISH blue. Too high polish I think. See if I can find a pic that shows it well.





Charlie

I agree with you Charlie, that's too high a polish.

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HIS Trains 'a LEAVIN

That's what I was worried or concerned about.

Anyone have suggestions as to how to get a 'proper' Blue finish?

Cheers, Allen

Allen
My 2nd model was finished by Dave Chicoine, one of the best in the business when it comes to Smith & Wesson Revolvers.

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OGCA Member.

Both Dave Chicoine and Turnbull's can duplicate the original finish on virtually any gun. There are two things you can count on. 1. It will be done right. 2. It will be comparatively costly-----but not "expensive" per se------you get what you pay for. Fords can and will do virtually anything you ask them to do. e.g.,The "too shiny bright" Fords finish shown here comes about as a result of a very "high" polish----before blueing. I have no idea what they use, but let's say it's 600 grit. Given that preparation with 600 grit is too shiny, simply ask them to do the final preparation with 320---400---or whatever. As noted, I don't know exactly what will produce what you want------but they do!!

You ask about the process used on the pre-war .357 Magnums. As I understand it, it is known as the Carbonna process----which is explained thoroughly in Chicoine's book (Gunsmithing Guns of The Old West). Both the Charcoal process and Rust process will can/will produce similar results (color-----virtually any color you want). Both are very labor intensive----which you will pay for---extensively.

Bottom Line: You pays your money and you takes your pick.

As an aside-----and strictly opinion, the quality of the preparation determines the quality of the finish. It doesn't make two cents worth of difference what process is used to achieve the color. There are those who believe they can tell the difference (in color) produced by one process or another----and maybe they can. I don't believe I can.

Ralph Tremaine

Another thought---"Hammerdown" (on this forum) has forgotten more about Fords and what they can do than I know. Send a PM to him and see what's what. As an alternative, I can tell him to get involved in this thread------and you'll probably learn way more than you wanted to know!

Here is a #555 polish from Fords on a 38/44 done about 18 months ago.

I'll echo that surface prep and polishing is more important than the bluing method used. Metal polished to a mirror finish will have a great-looking deep blue even if the more modern hot bluing process is (properly) performed. I also think that distinguishing among the various bluing processes by appearance is very difficult if the metal surface prep is the same quality. Virtually all of the cost and the quality of the final bluing job is in the performance of the polishing and surface cleaning prior to bluing, not the bluing process. If the polished metal is not completely clean, the appearance of the bluing suffers. I have found the best way to do that is by a wipedown with MEK. Boiling in a silicate cleaner alone prior to bluing is not enough if a superior bluing is expected.

I spoke with (darn if I didn't forget his name already) a gentleman from Ford's that is their master gunsmith.
He said when I send it in tell him to call me so we can discuss what I'm looking for and he can finish it like a prewar factory looking finish.

He doesn't have a set name for that level or look but knows what I'm wanting to end up with.

He was very nice & helpful.

After talking with Glenrock Blue I think that is where I will send it when ready for bluing.

Thanks for all the input & pics guys.

Cheers, Allen

I have been fairly impressed with the bluing on a couple of mid-70's S&Ws I have seen. Come to think if it, the stainless finish of that era was pretty good, too. Strictly from pictures, I think the ones from the 1930s have the deepest and best blue finishes.