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S&W Hand Ejectors: 1896 to 1961 All 5-Screw & Vintage 4-Screw SWING-OUT Cylinder REVOLVERS, and the 35 Autos and 32 Autos


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Old 07-28-2013, 11:41 PM
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Hi all - need your help identifying this revolver. I have a chance to trade for it and wanted to know what it's worth. To me it looks like a Model 14, but the owner says when he opens the crane, there's no model number, and the serial number is J 475XX 7. He says it's about 90%.

Some pics:
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Old 07-28-2013, 11:49 PM
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This is a K-38 Masterpiece from between the post-war period and before 1957, after which it was named the model 14. The serial number is on the bottom of the grip frame, so the seller needs to remove the stocks to find it. It has signs of a possible refinish, which would affect its value.
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Old 07-29-2013, 12:04 AM
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You may find this thread interesting: Need to ID & value this revolver

Guessing that's the owner?
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Old 07-29-2013, 03:17 AM
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But the serial # given isn't a serial #. It has to be a K prefix and be from the gun butt. It would be in the K26XXXX range or lower.

The provided # is the soft fitting number from the yoke and a couple of inspector stamps, a J and a 7 tagged onto it.

Please see here: To IDENTIFY your Gun >
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Old 07-29-2013, 04:51 AM
jw mathews jw mathews is offline
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If the gun was made prior to stamped model numbers (always with "MOD" & the number stamped in the frame's yoke cut beginning in 1957), the serial number should also appear on the rear face of the cylinder AND the bottom of the barrel flat between the lug and the frame. Those numbers should match the number on the bottom of the butt. The butt number will be hidden on any gun equipped with the oversize target stocks.
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Old 07-29-2013, 11:22 AM
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It does not appear to have been re-finished to me. While the others argue about the S/N I'll make a "guesstimate" of between $475 and $550 for a value for you as a shooter. They are fine guns and one of the most accurate ones S&W made.
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Old 07-29-2013, 11:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jw mathews View Post
If the gun was made prior to stamped model numbers (always with "MOD" & the number stamped in the frame's yoke cut beginning in 1957), the serial number should also appear on the rear face of the cylinder AND the bottom of the barrel flat between the lug and the frame. Those numbers should match the number on the bottom of the butt. The butt number will be hidden on any gun equipped with the oversize target stocks.
Serial # Locations:
Pre war guns have serial #s in 6* locations, target models in 8* (or 9*, early pre war the rear sight blade can have the serial # or assembly #).
*EXCEPTION: Triple Locks have 7, since the TL cam plate is also stamped. On targets 9 (or 10 depending on rear sight blade stamping #).
Postwar guns continued the 6 locations but dropped the target sight locations.

The 6 locations left after WW II are:

Butt, the one TRUE place you can be sure of reading the serial number, including letter prefixes, is the BUTT of the gun, (or Front grip strap on non-round butt .22/32 & Regulation Police pre Model of 1953 I frames). The number on the butt may be drilled thru by the factory for installation of a lanyard ring but is re-stamped on the grip frame, under the left stock.
Barrel*, underneath or in extractor shroud
Yoke* on rear face visible thru a chamber with a flashlight
Extractor star, backside
Cylinder, rear face
Right stock, backside

*NOTE: the barrel will usually also have the B prefix to serial # for original Blue finish (and larger B suffix for Bright blue, with same B on the left toe and rear face of cyl under the extractor in the early ‘50s when satin was standard), N for original Nickel or S for service dept. replacement. In addition the left side of the grip frame and yoke on some pre war guns may have the small B or N serial # prefix.

Model Numbers were assigned in c. 1957 and stamped on the frame side of the yoke hinge, and the serial # locations began decreasing c. 1956 over a transition period from 6 to eventually only 3 by c.1957, butt, star and right stock until eventually just on butt of grip frame, back of extractor star (until late ‘60’s), and back of right stock (until late '70s).
After Model # stamping began, the serial number was not put in the yoke cut until late 1959 or early 1960, and then it was only put there when the revolver was shipped with target stocks. Soon after, serials were stamped on the frame in the yoke as well, except on some smaller guns where it just didn't fit.

This Yoke stamping of the serial # on later guns is the reason for many pre 1957 guns to be incorrectly registered by the useless assembly # on the frame in the yoke.
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Old 07-29-2013, 12:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H Richard View Post
It does not appear to have been re-finished to me. While the others argue about the S/N I'll make a "guesstimate" of between $475 and $550 for a value for you as a shooter. They are fine guns and one of the most accurate ones S&W made.
Unless S&W shipped guns with polished shiny hammers it has most certainly been re-finished:

I have cropped and zoomed in on a picture from the other thread on this gun here:

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