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S&W Hand Ejectors: 1896 to 1961 All 5-Screw & Vintage 4-Screw SWING-OUT Cylinder REVOLVERS, and the 35 Autos and 32 Autos


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Old 12-23-2013, 04:38 AM
Crewcabz Crewcabz is offline
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Pics to come...

Hand ejector, 4 screw, fixed sights, 6" barrel.

Butt Stamp Serial...

C 158XXX

Strain relief screw (Between grips, front side)...Yes

Currently has a trigger lock... no key!

I used this as a kill pistol hunting as a kid 30 yrs. ago, and haven't seen much of it since.

It's back in my possession, but has been treated like a ****** little revolver!

Darn good pistol as I remember...

Worth the hassle to get it up to snuff again?

Any info is appreciated~
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Old 12-23-2013, 07:03 AM
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Welome to the Forum.

Yes, it will clean up and protect you and your family. Or shoot cans or targets or...

You can CAREFULLY drill out the trigger lock and remove it. Center punch the lock and drill slowly.

It shipped in the 1948-51 era.
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Old 12-23-2013, 08:48 AM
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Official name .38 Military & Police, a similar gun was later called the model 10 and it is still in production.
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Old 12-23-2013, 09:03 AM
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We had a guy show up at the range to check his rifle before deer season and he had left the key to his trigger lock at home. He was on his lunch break and didn't have time to get the key, or come back to the range before his trip. I popped off his trigger lock with a large screwdriver, prying between the two halves. Be careful not to scratch the gun.

A better way may be to clamp one half of the lock in a vice, grab the other half with a large pair of vice grips and twist while pulling. I haven't tried this method, but trigger locks are easily defeated. Hold the gun so it doesn't hit the floor when the lock halves come apart.
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Old 12-23-2013, 10:25 AM
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Estimating the shipping date from the serial number for C-series M&Ps is imprecise due to S&W's inventory practices. However, for yours, shipment at some time in 1951 is most likely, and possibly even 1952. One with a nearby serial number is known to have been shipped in 1953.
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Old 12-23-2013, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crewcabz View Post
Pics to come...

Hand ejector, 4 screw, fixed sights, 6" barrel.

Butt Stamp Serial...

C 158XXX

Strain relief screw (Between grips, front side)...Yes

Currently has a trigger lock... no key!

I used this as a kill pistol hunting as a kid 30 yrs. ago, and haven't seen much of it since.

It's back in my possession, but has been treated like a ****** little revolver!

Darn good pistol as I remember...

Worth the hassle to get it up to snuff again?

Any info is appreciated~
This thread is worthless without pictures
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Old 12-23-2013, 01:34 PM
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Thanks for the info thus far... (other than the estimated value of the thread of course) this is all very helpful info.
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Old 12-23-2013, 02:36 PM
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Quick picture...

got the triggerlock out... (two pipe wrenches!)

Phone camera is being stupid...

I'll get another pic with real camera later.
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Last edited by Crewcabz; 12-23-2013 at 02:43 PM. Reason: add details
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Old 12-23-2013, 02:45 PM
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Quick picture #2.
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Old 12-23-2013, 03:57 PM
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I can't seem to see the top screw. Is it missing?
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Old 12-23-2013, 04:03 PM
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Yes, the upper sideplate screw is gone. The factory may still have them.

I would give the bore/chambers a good cleaning, oil the exterior and (lightly) the internal parts, and see how it shoots. A trip to the gunsmith if you are not sure it is safe to fire.
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Old 12-23-2013, 04:09 PM
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The upper sideplate screw is often called the "Bug" screw. Gun Parts/Numrich had them, I don't know if they still do. I think they are relatively easily found.
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Old 12-23-2013, 05:30 PM
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Yes.. I don't recall it missing 20 years ago, but I'll have to try to get the replacement on the way.
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Old 12-23-2013, 06:05 PM
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You'll only find an upper sideplate screw listed for S&W 1917s at Numrich. Get a Victory upper sideplate screw from vendor gparts on ebay. It is 1/3 of what Numrich wants for one. It may be parkerized, but with the gun in that condition, it won't matter. BTW, you can shoot it with the screw missing.

I'd soak that in mineral spirits or kerosene for a few days, then take the internals out and thoroughly clean it with acetone before reassembly/lube. Some 0000 steel or brass wool will help get the surface rust off. Alternately, Blue Wonder sells a cleaner that will remove rust and oil without damaging what finish is remaining. Should be a good shooter!
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