I have a 6 shot S&W 38 special model 10-6. I found this revolver with the starting letter "C775xxx". I have seen model 10s with a starting letter of "D", but not "C". I'm just looking for any general information about this revolver relating to history, value, year made, is it anything special? Also, what would the purpose be for the threaded hole above where the trigger is? It looks like someone may have put a screw there for some reason, which I don't know. I guess it would probably hurt the value of this gun, if any value at all. I have some options running through my head as to what I might do with it. I could get that threaded hole welded in and then send it off to Smith and Wesson to have them do their thing, IF...it'd be worth it to even send it to Smith and Wesson? With what is shown in the picture I was told I can get for less than $100 bucks, What would you do? Thanks, also, I am new to this forum.

Kristina.

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For $100, I'd jump on it. Your SN would indicate shipping sometime in mid or late 1965, and it would be marked as a Model 10. The D-series started in 1968. The cylinder bolt spring screw in front of the trigger guard went away in 1962, so yours should not have it. But in any event, if it's there, I wouldn't do anything to it assuming it functions and fires OK. There is absolutely nothing to be obtained by trying to fill it in. A picture of the hole would be helpful, as the exact location from your description is unclear (above where the trigger is?).

Thanks for the reply. I am new to this so I am trying to figure out how to add pictures and such. I added one but I guess it wasn't right...oops. It uploads picture as a thumbnail that can be clicked on and enlarged which shows the hole just below the rear of the cylinder. I'll try again. computers

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Here is the attached photo. phew. haha

gungun.jpg

I would not pay $100 for what's pictured. All those missing parts add up quickly and condition of the finish is not good. By the time I was done rebuilding this gun I bet I could buy a better one for the same money or close to it. If you must have a professional rebuild it for you then you will absolutely have more in than you would if you bought a complete gun. If you enjoy rebuilding things then start hunting for parts and go for it. If you have to pay someone to do it for you then I would advise dumping it.

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Thanks ya'll,
Actually price would be less than $100, $50, to be exact. I work in a gun shop doing refinishing work(still learning about all the diff. guns and backgrounds) and our shop had bought about 65 revolvers from an old security company and this one is one of the few left. I just noticed that the serial number was different then the rest of them and maybe thought that if I was going to get one, grab this one IF it'd be cost worthy to fix up and if it's any special than the others. I guess my main question would be if I should not bother and grab one of the other model 10s with the "Dxxxxxx" and the thinner pencil barrel. I could maybe come across the rest of the parts, but if it's not anymore special then the others i'd rather save time and get one with all the parts. ha

There is also another another model 10 I saw with a serial number "2D82xxx". Whats the significance of the 2 before the letter D ?
I'm just very interested in S&Ws (BIG FAN) and I absolutely love revolvers I know my way in out of them blindfolded as far as disassembly and reassembly but history and value is what I am now trying to progress on I guess. I added a photo of the other model 10 (with grips! )
1004953_10203287008642247_1911623967_n.jpg

You didn't say that it was stripped of internal parts (which is what it appears like from the picture). But for $50, I would still take it.

"thinner pencil barrel..." Some here have been known to take great umbrage at that description. No kidding. Best to forget the word "pencil" in conjunction with the word "barrel."

2D00001 - 2D80,000……….1977
2D80,001 – 3D99,999………1978

haha no kiddin'! well, don't want to offend anyone, didn't mean anything by it, I was just over hearing an older gentlemen talking about them and as I was typing he said that so It just ended up in my post. ha I didn't know what they're called actually, I would just call them the thinner barrels. Don't want to be that "30 round clip" person. haha Internal parts i'm not to worried about since I could probably get a hold of them for next to nothing which is why it wasn't mentioned. Thanks ya'll for the help with the dates and such! That is where I had the most curiosity.

There are "standard" barrels and "heavy" barrels.

OK, you have smithing skills and tools, and a connection to buy parts. This becomes a viable project for you. It will not be beautiful when finished but it will be a serviceable revolver for shooting.

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The hole in the side of the frame appears to be for the stud that the cylinder stop fits on. These used to be threaded, but now are installed in a different manner.

That "other Model 10" is missing the ejector rod. You may have an opportunity to build yourself one good gun from all those parted-out ones. Please keep us advised.

Larry

Thanks, guys. I've had a few people bring me their Model 10s to cerakote, They all cleaned up well, looked nice but I prefer leaving them as is. Had one come in from a house fire and it was rusted, had rough pitting and smelled like a Bon fire. It was this guys favorite revolver too. Fresh cerakote, some polishing, new grips and a couple new springs, he was happy to get it back in working order.
Part of me wants the task of searching for the missing parts of one, but the other part just really wants to get out on a range. Haha
Thanks again for the advice. Knowledge and opinions. I've got more thinking to do.

That hole is where the trigger stud goes, not the cylinder stop stud. My bet is the trigger stud broke and someone tried to fix it themselves instead of returning the gun to the factory. They drilled out the stud and tapped the hole, and it is probably in the wrong place! Guns of this period did not have screwed-in studs, they were induction brazed into the frame. S&W would have installed a screwed-in stud to repair this, but they have the jigs to drill it in the right place!

The frame is junk, probably why it was parted out.