I have just aquired a vintage Smith. It appears the barrel has been cut down to 3.75 from perhaps a 6 inch as the S&W 38 special CTG stamp is very close to the frame on the right side of the barrel and the Patent dates on top of the barrel seem to be cut off at the frame also. The end of the ejector rod is missing and I understand there is no ejector barrel lug on this model. It has a 4 screw side plate but no 5th screw. The gun has a nice patina and some surface rust that is cleaning up with a bit of steel wool, lightly. I shot it with 2.6 grains of Bullseye yesterday and it hits slightly left as the front sight leans a bit left. The cylinder seems a bit smaller or shorter than some later model 10's I have. Any input on history, where I could get some replacemet E rod end perhaps a new 4' barrel etc. Serial number is 20xxx. Thank you

Welcome to the forum. Sounds like an interesting gun you have there. Photos would be great and help us figure out exactly what you have.

If I am thinking this out correctly, a front sight that leans left would require a shooter to move the guns rear sight left to line it up on a target. Moving the rear sight or rear of the gun to the left would swing the barrel to the right and make the gun shoot to the right not the left. It is possible that a former owner tilted the front sight left to get the gun to shoot more to the right but it was not enough. The shortened barrel also doesn't help any sighting issue.

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James Redfield
LM #497

My thought too, and since the sights are just a razor thin from and tiny slot rear I may have had a bit of correct line up problem too. I will try and post some pictures soon.

"The end of the ejector rod is missing and I understand there is no ejector barrel lug on this model. "

This loss seems to be common to many 1899s. I believe there is someone on the forum (I don't remember who) who had some replica 1899 extractor rod tips made up. Maybe someone reading this can help. There is no under-barrel lug, and that's one of the indicators that it is a First Model. Too bad the barrel has been shortened. It's best just to live with it that way. It should be safe to shoot with light lead-bullet handloads as you have been doing.

Living with the cut barrel will have to be since it is very hard to find an E rod end, much less a correct barrel. I would pay dearly for one of the repoduced ends. Saw a picture of one with a screw in place that matched circumferance of the rod. Any one know the thread dimensions. Also contemplating reblue and replace grips to repro originals. It has wood Diamond grips that look to be shaped to fit. Possibly Sq Btt at one time. This is a keeper for me and would think that the cut barrel would be more of a price killer than a good reblue. Thoughts?

Depends upon your willingness to spend the cash. It has little to no collector value in its present condition, so if spending $200-$300 (or more) on cosmetics is within your budgetary means, have at it. I'd personally spend my money differently, but that's just me. I'm of the school that believes that if you want a gun that looks like new, buying one already in that condition will pay better dividends.

You said you have a Navy/Army 1899. Which marking is on the bottom of the grip? It should have an anchor and USN for the Navy gun and U.S. Army for the Army.
The Navy gun has 1000 guns issued to them. The S&W serial number range is 5001 to 6000. The Navy serial number range is 1 to 1000.
The Army gun also has 1000 guns. The S&W serial numbers are 13001 to 14000. The Army serial numbers are not marked.
I have navy marked gun with the Navy serial number of 46.
These guns should be 38 long colt. If it fires other rounds it is probably been bored. Be careful what you fire in it. They are not heat treated.

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Tom
NRA Pistol Inst

I say Army Navy because a friend has a S&W history book that has this included in the header for the 1899 1st model. I see no Govt markings and have no illusion it is one. It is marked 38 special and shoots light loads pretty well.

Dwalt, I have a 2 year degree in Gunsmithing and can do a pretty decent reblue after a good strip and the cost of a tub of elbow grease. I just want to bring the gun closer to what it may have looked like in its original state. No thoughts of passing it off as original though, just a pleasant light shooter of a time gone past in my private collection. It wont be a Turnbull restoration but it will drive and turn a few heads.

SIAD

I'm the one who has the 1899 extractor nobs. The thread is a 6-40. They were made
up by a machinist-friend of mine, and are exact replicas of the original nob. Price is
$90 + $5 shipping. Finish is high-polish steel, so you might want to blue it when you
refinish the gun.

I have several 1899 barrels, in most lengths. They are in good condition, some are
actually new !

Regards, Mike Priwer [email protected]

Finally got out the bright lights and the manifying glass. Barrel is not cut and patina will stay. I do need to replace the grips as they have been filed down to fit this pistola.

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I too need an 1899 extractor rod tip.

Chris

Am I missing something here? I thought all 1899s were round butt? Also, barrl length must be 4" if not cut.

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Gary
SWCA 2515

Barrel is very close to 4 and the gun is a round butt but the grips were square butt ground down to fit...poorly.

This is what the extractor rod tip looks like.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

Thanks for that. Could you post pictures of the stampings on the barrel? The address on top should be evenly spaced between the sight and frame with no missing content, and yoI always need a magnifying glass to read. That would help make sure the barrel is not cut.

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Gary
SWCA 2515

The stamping on top of the barrel are patent dates and under lights and magnafication appear to be complete. Barrel may be set slighty deep but it is not cut down.