Combat Masterpiece Problem

[FPrice]

Finally got my 1956 (roughly) CM out to the range for some fun but quickly ran into a problem. About 50% of the time in double-action firing, the trigger will move about 1/8" and then stop. Releasing pressure on the trigger will usually solve the problem but it keeps happening.

Tried to remove the sideplate but the screws are TIGHT. If I put a drop of WD-40 on each screw and let it sit for a few hours will that help loosen them?

After that, what should I look for inside?

[kbm6893]

Make sure you're using hollow ground screwdrivers. Don't wanna mess up the screws or the finish.

Was the gun cleaned before it was fired? I had a similar problem that was caused by powder and fouling under the ejector star (not sure if that's the right term). I was shooting Winchester white box ammo. For now, I'd cock the hammer, and blast some brake cleaner down into the guts of the gun. Follow by blasts of compressed air and then a few drops of oil.

I've taken the sideplate off every used revolver I have ever owned. Seen some serious sludge in some of them. Never had a problem with the screws. Just watch some good YouTube videos on the process. Do NOT pry the plate off. Take the stocks off and tap the grip frame to remove it. Don't screw up the order of the screws either.

[4011]

X2 what poster 2 said.

[Art Doc]

Thorough cleaning always #1 solution attempt. I have bought revolvers that sold cheap because they were inoperable and all they needed was a good cleaning.

[FPrice]

Thanks for all the advice. Unfortunately the screws were already a bit buggered up, I am trying not to make them any worse. The front and middle screws (both convex heads) came off okay. The rear screw (flat head) is stuck. I've put some CLP on it to see if it will loosen up.

I gave it a good external cleaning when I bought it. At this point I am hoping that all it will need now is an internal cleaning.

[Peak53]

a few taps on the screwdriver handle after soaking with penetrating oil can do wonders to loosen a stuck screw. the failure to advance could be a worn hand, perhaps?

[L Pete]

Old dried up oil is the bane of older guns. A thorough and proper cleaning is usually required.

[SAFireman]

As some others said - a good cleaning can go a looooonnnngg way to help that old girl.

I have bought guns that were 'broken' for cheap - they just needed a good cleaning and they were just fine. Heck, I bought a 12 gauge Rem 870 for cheap because the action was 'broken' I took it apart for a good cleaning and found a live 22LR round jammed inside the action, it was quick work to remove the round and I had a really nice riot gun for $100.

Let us know how it turns out Frosty.

[FPrice]

Well, with some effort I got the last screw out and the sideplate off. I looks like no gunk, but also like no one has done anything to it in many years. I am at the end on my knowledge and abilities tho. How would you suggest that I proceed? How should I clean/lubricate it?

[Big Cholla]

It looks good to me. Reading between your lines, IMHO, you should go to an electronics store and buy a couple of cans of compressed air. Buy "Kroil" penetrating oil someplace. Remove the cylinder and crane. The cylinder has to be correctly aligned to allow it to slide out past the frame. Now, would be a good time to check the ejector rod tightness. It is a left handed thread. If you have strong grip, fingers should be good for the tightening. If not, Brownells has a tool for this job. Don't use pliers. Now, start your cleaning and oiling. Holding your thumb over the hammer block to keep it from flying out and Kroil the interior thoroughly. Let it set for a half hour. Use a can of compressed air to blow out the residue. Then lightly oil the interior at anyplace metal to metal contact is being made. Your CLP is OK with me. Now remove the cylinder from the crane. Push the ejector rod to raise the extractor star. Blow that area out. Lightly oil that area. Rub a little oil on the ejector rod. Oil the barrel of the crane where the cylinder goes on and do the same for the arm of the crane where it goes back into the frame. Put it all back together starting with the sideplate on the frame. Make sure the hammer block stays in the exact position that your picture shows it in. If the block becomes out of position the sideplate will not go back into place. Gently set the sideplate into position and tap it with a non marring object if necessary. Usually they go back with just thumb pressure. You do know that the front sideplate screw just above the front of the trigger guard is the screw that also holds the crane and cylinder in place? After the cylinder/crane is back in position reinsert that screw. Do not get heavy handed here. Work the cylinder open a couple of times to see if that screw you just tightened is causing drag on the crane arm. If so, slightly back that screw out. If the screw has to be loose to allow the crane/cylinder to be opened without drag, that screw needs to be refitted at the crane end. Wipe everything off with a soft cloth. Do an armorer's function check (Google it). You should be good to go. If the original condition shows up at this point this handgun needs to be seen by a S&W pistolsmith. ...........

[FPrice]

Thanks for this help.

[FPrice]

Well, followed Big Cholla's instructions and everything went as described. Could not find Kroil (two auto parts stores and one chain hardware store - no one knew what it was!) so I had to use a substitute. Let it soak for an hour or two, blew it out with air, then used a little CLP. Discovered (re-discovered?) how to line up the side plate just right to get it back on, and that plate fits TIGHT! The trigger pull feels great! Now to take it to the range and see it this solved the problem.

[Hondo44]

Frosty,

1. Unless there's a model # with a dash # in the yoke, the extractor rod is right hand thread.

2. If it again malfunctions at the range, the first troubleshooting technique to isolate the problem is to open the cyl. With left hand, hold the cyl latch in the rear most position and try the double action. If it functions correctly, you have isolated the problem to the cyl pawl. If it still malfunctions with the cyl opened, the problem is the double action sear (the hammer fly).

Remove sideplate, pull trigger DA and observe the DA sear for causing the trigger bind.

Either is a simple part replacement/fitting.

[H Richard]

Glad you got it cleaned up, but I agree with Big Cholla, find some Kroil for the future, and Please take that can of WD40 as far away from your gun as possible. WD40 is NOT a lubricant, and after a time the residue from it will turn to a type of varnish which will really gum up the works. If you did use WD40 inside, please remove the side plate again and spray it out with brake & parts cleaner and blow it out with compressed air. Then use a proper gun lubricant, there are dozens of good ones out there, and don't over do it. Break Free, Rem Oil, Hoppes, etc.

[FPrice]

Well I took the old CM out to the range yesterday and she worked just as advertised. Not one problem with the trigger and in fact the DA pull seemed nice and smooth. So good in fact that I was able to terrorize and eventually pulverize a 6-8" piece of wood at the 100' berm with one cylinder of Blazer 148 gr HBWC. Both my son and I put a few more cylinders downrange just to make sure.

Hondo44 - Even though it worked perfectly I still tried what you suggested.

H Richard - Thanks for the advice but I knew WD40 is not the best thing to use. If you will check post #12 you will see that I let the WD40 set for a little while then blew it out with air, several times actually to get as much as possible out and then put some CLP in the mechanism. Sometimes to have to use what you've got. However your advice was a good reminder.

[samandglove1]

Frosty - Glad the problem worked out. Here is a Kroil deal that I have done in the past. It used to be $12 including shipping for two large cans, but the present deal is still good. Two cans will last a long time.

http://www.kanolabs.com/google/

[FPrice]

Ash,

Thanks! I'll look into that. If they are really big cans I'll just give one to my step-son for his equipment.