A neighbor brought over a S&W Model 1917 revolver to show me yesterday and asked if I knew anything about the firearm. It peaked my interest, and I told him I would research it on this site. With this in mind, I would like to ask for some help in getting some information on this pistol.

This revolver is quite large and has a swing out cylinder. The barrel measures 5 1/2 inches from the cylinder, and is labeled "S & W D.A. 45" along the left side. The top of the barrel has engraved in it, "SMITH & WESSON SPRINGFIELD MASS USA" and right below that "PATENTED DEC 17 1901, FEB 8 1906, SEP 14 1909".

To locate the serial number, I had to remove the grips, and on the bottom of the grip frame is marked, and in this order;

US
ARMY
MODEL
1917

No.
125
XXX

My questions are; 1) What 45 Caliber is this, and 2) Approximately what year might it have been manufactured? Of course I would greatly appreciate any other information that others might have on this type revolver. Thank you.

It should be .45 ACP unless its been altered. Also, the stocks appear to be a well worn set of custom Sanderson target stocks. I'm unsure of the date but someone will be along shortly to pin it down for you.

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Kris
OGCA, NRA LM

Re: The S&W .45 Hand Ejector U.S. Army-Model 1917I agree.
I agree with 410bore. It should be .45 acp caliber.

The SCSW (Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson) says:
1917-1946 serial number 1 - 209791
It also says "The U.S. Army serial range is approximately 1-169959." So, I would assume this particular model 1917 is a World War I gun. I imagine this is a mid to later issue gun. The mid-WWI-issue guns would a Springfield Armory flaming bomb inspector's stamp and the later-WWI-issue would have an eagle's head and an "S" number such as S followed by a number.
Hopefully someone will chime in a provide a more specific date for you.

This model was an answer to a problem. In WW I they could not churn out enough Colt model 1911's to meet demand and there was a plethora of .45 acp ammo. S&W and Colt were both asked to make revolvers for the .45 acp ammo. The S&W can be fired successfully without moon clips but the Colt requires moon clips to fire successfully.

You can probably read for days on the internet about this model and it's history.

Interesting. At this time, I am unable to swing the cylinder out for inspection, nor is the hammer able to be cocked. Apparently the internal parts are gummed up and I will have to remove the plate on the right side to get to them to clean. Have done this once before to another S&W revolver, though it was a later model.

Another question. Is it common for the "tensioner screw" to be exposed? This one protrudes from the front of the grip frame about an 1/8 inch and therefore makes it uncomfortable to grip, and would definitely make it very uncomfortable to shoot.

The strain screw should always be tight. Somebody loosed it, presumably, to lighten the trigger pull. There are other steps that can be taken to lighten the trigger pull. Unscrewing the strain screw only leads to a host of other unpleasant problems.

Thoroughly cleaning it is a good first step in bringing it back to life.

__________________
Why, I aughta.....

I recommend removing the stocks and soaking the gun overnight in kerosene or auto transmission fluid (Google "Ed's Red Gun Bore Cleaner"). Then some spray parts cleaner (carb or brake cleaner) into the internals should flush out all the accumulated gunk. See if that doesn't free it up. If not, you may have to break it down and scrub the action with a brush and some gun cleaner.

I noticed the strain screw protruding from the grips. That is very unusual as it should be nearly flush with the grip frame. I suspect someone substituted a longer screw so they could adjust the main spring trigger pull without removing the grips. The main spring may be insufficiently tensioned. I would replace the screw with an original. You may be able to get it from gunpartscorp.com. Just about any N frame S&W revolver's screw should work, unless the screw hole has been retapped.

It may be the picture, but has the gun been nickeled? If so, that is not original condition.

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Guy
SWHF #474 SWCA LM#2629

You can also find the smooth walnut service stocks and lanyard ring online if you are looking to bring it back to the original configuration. The lanyard ring is the same one used on the Victory model.
If you can find some, it shoots .45 AutoRim also. I believe Remington developed the 45 AR for the 1917 after the war.

This one probably shipped in early-mid 1918. The last 1917s (near SN 169,000) didn't ship until early 1919. A factory historical letter would give you the exact date.

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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

This is really informative, all of the information and suggestions I am getting on this old pistol, and I sure do appreciate it. Thanks to all who are taking the time to make their comments!

On the tensioner screw, I'll have do some more research with gunparts.com and Numerich to see what they have, and what is recommended. And I agree with Mr. McLellan, there are better ways to lighten the trigger.

Also, I like the idea of soaking the gun in kerosene. Might reduce the work required to get the gunk out of the action. I'll let you know, but it is going to be awhile before I can get to it.

There isn't any hole for any place to attach a lanyard ring on the bottom of the grip frame, at least none I have seen. I will take a closer look when I take the grips back off for soaking and cleaning. Will also check with the owner and see if he would like to get some original style grips for it. That would be a nice touch.

As far as the finish on the pistol, it appears to be either nickle or chrome plated, but the finish is so poor that I can't really tell. The photos are pretty close on the reproduction of the color and finish.

Good suggestions one and all. Thank you!!

Before you start removing the side plate, check to see if the ejector rod can be tightened in place. These tend to loosen and bind the gun up. These older guns (until about 1961, I believe) have a right-hand thread, and the counterclockwise rotation of the cylinder can back them out so that it tightens up from end to end. If you can tighten the rod enough to get the cylinder to swing out, then you can snug it down (hand tighten only!). Have your neighbor get in the habit to check it periodically.

bubbajoe45, I wasn't aware of that, so thanks for the suggestion. Will see what happens and will post what I find.

"The S&W can be fired successfully without moon clips but the Colt requires moon clips to fire successfully."

Not so. Some of the very earliest Colt 1917s required clips to keep .45 ACP cartridges from sliding too far into the chambers, but most do not. Of course, using clips speeds up loading and extraction of fired cases greatly.

There is an enormous amount of information about Colt and S&W Model 1917 revolvers available on the internet. Just use Google.

Your S&W M1917 was delivered to Springfield Arsenal during the week of October 26, 1918 as part of a weekly shipment of 3700 revolvers.

Buck

haggis, that is very good to know! Thank you so much for the information and I will pass it on to my neighbor. Some good history here!!

Last week, I was able to soak the 1917 Hand Ejector in some kerosene, then using the brake cleaner as suggested, got most of the gunk out of the internal mechanism. By using some very light oil that contained TEFLON, I managed to free the cylinder from the frame and lube the ejector rod so that the cylinder began to rotate freely. The only problem remaining is that the revolver still won't function properly by either pulling the trigger, as in double action, or by cocking the hammer. The revolver can be cocked, the the cylinder rotates, but to do so requires both the trigger AND the hammer be pulled at the same time.

My firearms cleaning kit and tools are not at my present location, therefore it will be some time before I can do any further breakdown for a better inspection and cleaning of the internal parts.

The caliber has been determined to be .45 ACP as suggested, and it appears as though the "half moon clips" would be the best way to load the rounds since the ejector won't remove the rounds from the cylinder without them.

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions and information. More to follow on my efforts to get this old gun up and running.