I have a chance to pick up this model 34 in 95% condition for $575. Interesting thing is I have never seen these grips before. From what i can tell it dates to late 50s. Are these hard to get? Is the price OK? Thanks an advance

The stocks are from a 1930 decade I frame, probably a .22/32 Target (a similar gun with a 6" barrel). I suspect the insides of the panels may have been altered to fit the J frame.

The gun has a little muzzle wear and we can't see the left side, so I would guess it is about $100 high.

__________________
Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

Thats kind of what I thought. In my mind I was thinking $450

I am a j frame nut, a connoisseur of 22's and I own and shoot a few. I think the S&W 34 is the pinnacle of 22 handguns both revolvers and pistols. They don't make them any more and I don't see that many for sale. Don't think of it as a collectible. Tote it with you and shoot the heck out of it. You could have paid a lot more for a lot less gun!

__________________
olafhardt

Nahhh I already decided to pass on it, id rather wait for a nice model 18

While I used to think that was too much for a Mod 34, have you priced the grips? Those grips would bring in excess of $100. I know they could be special ordered when the guns were still I frames, but don't think so after the change to J frames. After buying one at auction and seeing what they are going for on various auction sites I'm not too sure it is priced too high, depending on a closer inspection of the entire gun.

__________________
H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

Im So torn to purchase it or not

Do not wait, you will never regret having it and will likely want to add another .22 LR revolver such as the M-18 or M-17. I vote for a buy, a good investment!

__________________
Sam
S&WHF 333 S&WCA 2198

I bought a 34-1 about a month ago. 98% with no box or other stuff. I buy shooters, not safe queens. from what I have seen on auction sites and in LGS, when they do show up they aint cheap and they sell fast. I got mine from a pawn shop for $500 and was quite happy with the price. It is a fine shooter and I cannot see an ounce of difference in accuracy between it and my 6" 617 off bags. you will not be sorry if you buy it

For another $150 I can get a brand new 617. Worth it?

Buy it if it's in mechanical condition.

I would buy that gun. It's not a J frame and worth more. It's a 22/32 Kit Gun Model of 1953 'New' I frame, 3 screw; also known as the Mod 34 if stamped as such. These became the Model 34-1 if made after changed in Oct 1960 when they were built on the J frame.

It's becoming harder and harder to find these for that price in that condition.

And as Alan posted, yours has a nice pair of pre war extended target stocks normally worth over $100 on their own. These had to have the interior butt inletting increased to fit the 1/8" longer round butt of the M 1953 'New' I frame. This would not preclude them from still fitting properly on the old I frame grip.

The chrome plated, flat medallions date them to the 1930's vintage. They came standard on the pre war and pre 1953, .22/32 6" Heavy Frame Target, Model. And were optional on the pre war and pre 1953 22/32 4" Kit Gun Model as shown below:


It's remotely possible they were ordered on the gun from old inventory, but highly unlikely. The serial number stamped on the backside of the right grip will confirm if they came on your gun originally. That would make this gun very collectible with a rare option such as that and would need to be confirmed w/a factory letter of authentication. A non-matching # to your gun will confirm they were added after the factory.

If you want a M17 or M18 (the 4" version), having this as trading material might induce someone to trade for one here on this forum in the Classified section. This gun will continue to appreciate; a new 617 will depreciate the moment you leave the store.

Hope this helps,

__________________
Jim
S&WCA #819

Thank you so much for all the information and actually thank all you guys. I'm not very smart in these earlier vintage guns and everything you just said Hondo has helped a lot. I Just got off the phone with my LGS and they are holding iT for me. Hopefully I'll pick it up In the next few weeks. Thank god for this board and the wealth of knowledge that is shared. I'm a younger fella (38) and I'd like to pick up some of these classics before its too late.

Glad to have a young guy aboard. Once you own one of these earlier guns, it's hard to appreciate the newer ones as much. Although they are still fine guns in their own right, the panache of the pre wars and pre 61 guns will get in your soul!

__________________
Jim
S&WCA #819

Sorry pal,

Something ain't right.

"...hopefully... pick it up in he next few weeks...."

There is something wrong with "hopefully" and there is something wrong with "next few weeks"

It is like "I'll TRY to make my appointment.

Further, not many LGS' are let you put a desirable item on hold for a "few weeks"

I hope you don't misunderstand what putting on hold means. It should mean you are "on your way."

IF YOU WANT IT---YOU NEED TO GO GET IT.

And I would if I was your shoes as the fine advice you have gotten here---

IMHO

Jim, you identified this one as a 3 screw new I. It has the small ejector knob and oval trigger guard. Is that common for a 3 screw new I?

I have a very good relationship with my guys at my LGS. I consider them friends. I try not to burden them with a layaway and go pay cash. Usually inside a month.

Oh boy someore info?

Yes, the Model of 1953 New I Frames (the true pre models) have: new hammer style, 4 screws and then 3 after 1956, straight extractor rod (no knob), large oval trigger guard, 1/8” longer rd butt grip frame, or newly introduced non-rebated new style sq butt, and Micro click sight on .22/32s.

See my commentary with all the details and pics about these here:
THE POST WAR I FRAMES EVOLUTION - Smith & Wesson Forum

__________________
Jim
S&WCA #819

I have the serial, would that help?

Sure, I can tell you about when it shipped.

If it is not stamped Mod 34 in the yoke hinge on the frame side, it should be between 15XXX and 37XXX.

If it is stamped Mod 34, it should be between 35XXX and 70XXX.

__________________
Jim
S&WCA #819

Oh I know when it was shipped I have a scsw.appears to be 1958-59. I thought serial might help in some other way

The SCSW dates are production date approximations. For example # 51647 from 1958 according to the SCSW actually shipped in 10/61. Guns in the end of the 1959 range like # 60108 shipped 10/62.

I would appreciate your serial # for my data base, and if it's stamped Mod 34 or not. You can send in a PM if you wish.

Thx,

__________________
Jim
S&WCA #819

Surely. 34 no dash. Serial #44599

Actually I just looked it up and it seems it should be earlier

Yes, one would think so. Clearly started into production after the order June 12, 1957 to model stamp all guns. It's the idiosyncrasy of the way Smith inventoried their finished guns.

As those familiar with the reality of S&W's process, often described as "1st in, last out" know, guns completed 1st go in the inventory vault 1st, and that S&W made no effort to ship them 1st. In fact the exact opposite can be true; the last into the vault are taken out 1st to ship. The faster 'movers' are less affected. The slower moving the particular model, the more blatant this disparity becomes.

Time and again we see models with early features appearing later in the market because they were shipped later although they were obviously produced earlier (and are older). Serial numbers tell us even less about production time, as we know, guns were not produced in serial number sequence which is corrupted earliest in the manufacturing sequence. But the features, i.e., older or updated parts tell us much more about production time. Of course the "1st in, last out" principle can also apply to assembly of parts to a lesser extent.

That's why there is a fundamental problem using shipping dates entirely to "age" guns. We use it of course because that's all that is available to most of us as supplied in the factory authentication letters. But floor production dates do exist to a degree, albeit not as readily available. These records reconcile with the gun's age and features far closer than do shipping dates. They are earlier in the process and precede the further corruption of assembly sequence due to the shipping process.

Therefore, we find ourselves with these tools to gauge the age, in order of probable accuracy:

Gun's features,
Production date (if it can be determined),
Shipping date,
Serial number.

As Roy often reminds us, S&W was in the business of moving product out the door, not building or shipping guns in sequential order for collectors.

__________________
Jim
S&WCA #819

I went to the store today to give the 34 a closer Inspection and when I did I found a ton of firing pin marks on the cylinder next to each hole. Im not going to purchase it after seeing this.

That's an easy fix. And grounds for asking a $100 off the price. Did you happen to check for a serial # on the backside of the right grip?


Peening the ratchet teeth to correct timing/cyl ‘follow up’:
The flat surfaces of the teeth facing you in the photo are where to peen. The tooth at about 3 o'clock is the next to be engaged by the hand. The cylinder turns counterclockwise so the hand will engage the 'bottom side' of that tooth for the chamber at the top. The flat surface facing you is where to peen, right above the bottom side of the tooth. No need to take the gun apart at all.

Here's a photo of the cylinder & star:

__________________
Jim
S&WCA #819

Ive already backed out of it. Its not that nice and not worth 575 and thats as low as they will go at this time

I think they'll be hanging onto it for a long while.

__________________
Jim
S&WCA #819