Yesterday at the Billings gunshow I found a S&W M37 flatlatch SN 1774XX in very nice condition...the dealer was telling me that there was a problem with it and that he had all of the parts but could put it back together again....OK, they are inside the grips. which he opened and showed me...

I told him that a friend of mine locally could get him back up to speed NO problem....His response was " I just want to sell it and move on"

I asked what his "Sell it and move on price AS IS was" his reply was " Well Young feller, you got $75.00 on you? If so, you can have it....nearly broke my hand getting the cash out!!( that also included the HKS speedloaders he had for it as well)


Guess there was more than jerky at THIS show...also found a man selling an estate and had numerous unopened cans of Unique, W540, HS-6 and W748 for $10./lb.......Yeah, I bought it all.....the seller is a known and trustworthy man I have know nearly 20 years...

There can be some gold nuggets at a gunshow.....can't catch any fish if you don't throw the line out!!

Randy
PS.
I called my friend who is happy to get it back up to speed.....will let you all know how it finally turns out...

Nice job! Look forward to seeing your reassembled CS Airweight when you get it back together. Great price.

On the powder - also a good buy! I think I still have a few empty cans around with $6 price tags on them that I bought back in the '70s and some from the '80s that show a $12 price. Can't believe the price escalation on powder over the past few years - even when you can actually find it now!
I wish I could find some more Unique. Down to my last couple pounds . . .

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Jack
SWCA #2475, SWHF #318

What a deal! It would be about 1960 vintage.

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Jim
S&WCA #819

congrats on the $75 basket case... oh yeah, and the powder too.
I think most anyone woulda bought it in a heartbeat.
post some pics when its up & running

I still have a brick of .22 ammo with an $8.95 price tag on it. I think I also have a bag of lead shot with the same tag on it as well as a box of 1,000 primers for $10.

Ah, the good old days.....

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James Redfield
LM #497

OK now for the two most important QUESTIONS:
1. DO THE GRIPS MATCH?
2. IS THERE A LINE ON THE CYLINDER?
If I have to say just kidding, than my humor is missed. Mike 2796

the grips do match...there is a right one AND a left one!! ( actually numbered to the gun)

There ar 5 lines on the cylinder that goes all the way from front to back....does that mean it is a 5 shot?
......but is kind of hard to see....then I opened my eyes and it got a lot better...( reality is that it is really a nice condition gun in all regards...a tiny spot of holster wear right in front of the right side address lines.)

Can a skilled tool and die maker press the broken stud out and insert & stake the new one or is this truly a send back to S&W sort of thing?

Randy

PS. I just noticed that the barrel is marked .38 spl ctg...is that rare? (lol) Hope I can shoot -P ammo in it when it is done....I see no markings that it is - P rated......just having some fun here!

The REAL problem with this revolver is there is a broken trigger stud..the original owner bought a replacement part but didn't know anyone that could press the old one out and press the new one in and re-stake it properly...

I am pretty sure the Gun has to go back to the Factory to have the Stud swapped.I think there is about a 7+ Month wait as of right now.Unless you can get them to believe you are the original owner and it is a warranty repair.

UPDATE on this project....my Tool & Die Maker friend had no problems cutting the crimp and pressing out the broken stud and re-installing the new one.

He did leave a tiny button of the stud protruding for me to dress down with a stone he gave me so that I can contour it to the frame.

Total charge so far.... nothing...I have done some favors in the past for him......

Next step is to dress the stud down and then put all the parts back in and then shoot it if all goes well!!

Randy

Just a thought, you might put a thin layer of scotch tape over/around the pin hole while you carefully dress it down flush so as not to jeopardize the finish.

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Jim
S&WCA #819

Good idea....will do that and then get some Birchwood Casey Aluminum black....I am thinking that it would be best to dress the stud down before total reassembly but am open to suggestion....Thanks to all!

Randy

Randy,
I would assemble the gun to make sure everything is working 1st. Then pull out the cyl and yoke to dress down the pin.

Your key to make it look the best and factory original is to not scratch the anodized finish around the pin hole. Preserve the original finish at all cost with tape. Even if you don't get the pin completely flush! The aluminum black products do not work well and the repair will stand out like a sore thumb.

Careful filing with a very small fine file and going slow works the best. Use magnifying glasses to observe your progress. Finish off the pin with a small piece of 1000 grit paper glued to a narrow piece of flat wood like the square end of a Chinese food chopstick.

If you get it down flush with the Scotch tape it will not be noticeable once you touch up with cold blue. good luck and have fun.

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Jim
S&WCA #819

Sounds like a lot of work! BUT, just think about the end results that you will have! Bob

UPDATE on M37 project!

Gun was re-assembled and it very smooth and times up quite crisply. I was given a stone to dress the portion of the stud that was left slightly long on purpose....

The gun is now going to be test fired and the stone work done....Gotta love that Gunshow Gold!!

It sure pays to have friends with the right skills and abilities.

Randy

Won't the cold blue mess up the aluminum around the pin? Not arguing, just don't know.

Rob

Nope, shouldn't hurt it a bit! Can't wait to see pics of the finished product. Wouldn't mind seeing a before pic now.