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S&W Hand Ejectors: 1896 to 1961 All 5-Screw & Vintage 4-Screw SWING-OUT Cylinder REVOLVERS, and the 35 Autos and 32 Autos


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Old 11-15-2014, 12:37 AM
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I have placed a Regulation Police in 38 S&W in layaway. I have been told the gun has been reblued. I noted the letter "B" next to the serial number under the barrel, but not on the number located on the grip of the gun.

My question for the experts is - does that "B" represent a factory refinish job?

I love the older revolvers but am continually learning more and thus revealing just how much I don't know.
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Old 11-15-2014, 12:38 AM
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pretty sure it represents factory "blue"
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Old 11-15-2014, 01:00 AM
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Ditto. Blue, not re-blue.
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Old 11-15-2014, 04:31 AM
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So, is there a mark indicating a factory reblue?
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Old 11-15-2014, 04:49 AM
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Remove the grips... there may or may not be a factory marking on the side of the grip frame.

Look at post #6 in this thread for what to look for.
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Old 11-15-2014, 06:27 AM
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Gunhacker,

I thank you for that information.
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Old 11-15-2014, 09:43 AM
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I have been collecting dates on factory returned revolvers and the timeframe for stampings appears to be from 1910 to mid-1983. The normal stampings would include a star near the butt serial number and a date stamp inside the left side of the butt frame. Also, there is often a diamond or other non-original stamping placed on replaced parts, which helps differentiate a re-blue from a replaced part. If no such stamping exists, it is likely a refinish or a small internal part replacement.

It is my understanding that the stampings were a standard practice, but there may be a few exceptions out there. I suspect that nicely refinished or repaired guns without the stampings are most likely not factory returns, but rather gunsmiths work. I would not advertise any S&W as factory returned without the stampings unless there was paperwork to support its return.
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Old 11-15-2014, 09:48 AM
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Check the high edges and the sideplate fit. Reblued guns are usually buffed before the refinish so these places sometimes show evidence of additional buffing. Also check the hammer and trigger for blue. These parts are never blue from the factory but are case hardened, this is a dead give away.

Some folks rely on the depth of stampings, lettering and numbers. This is not always the case as many times these rollmarks or imprints were done lightly at the factory.

Also look at the stocks. If the stocks look well used but the gun is mint (and they number to the gun) it is usually an indication that the metal has been refinished.

Lastly, look for blemishes under the blue. If there is pitting that has blue in it, it is definitely a refinish.
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