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S&W Hand Ejectors: 1896 to 1961 All 5-Screw & Vintage 4-Screw SWING-OUT Cylinder REVOLVERS, and the 35 Autos and 32 Autos


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  #1  
Old 11-18-2014, 03:19 PM
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I was the only bidder for it at $350.00. I imagine the grips alone are worth a quarter that price.

Passes the timing test. Mechanically, seems good. Just a little honest wear on the finish.



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  #2  
Old 11-18-2014, 03:22 PM
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Looks like a nice one.
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Old 11-18-2014, 03:46 PM
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I like that one too. Nice photography as well. Have you had a chance to shoot it yet? I'd bet it's a real tack driver. Enjoy!!

Can you show the other side with the emblem?

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Old 11-18-2014, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Retired W4 View Post
I like that one too. Nice photography as well. Have you had a chance to shoot it yet? I'd bet it's a real tack driver. Enjoy!!

Can you show the other side with the emblem?
Thanks. Sure.

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  #5  
Old 11-18-2014, 06:43 PM
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The serial number on the frontstrap indicates that it's a Regulation Police. Take the grips off and see if they're numbered to the gun, and you'll also see the rebated backstrap that is unique to the RP.
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Old 11-18-2014, 06:55 PM
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Yes, I would have paid $350 for that RP in a heart beat. You already have ammo for it so let us know when you get it to the range.
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Old 11-18-2014, 07:04 PM
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The serial number on the frontstrap indicates that it's a Regulation Police. Take the grips off and see if they're numbered to the gun, and you'll also see the rebated backstrap that is unique to the RP.
Yes, it has the rebated backstrap. So that means it's properly called "Regulation Police" and not "Hand Ejector?" Interesting. Thanks. Did the Hand Ejector have a standard grip? Is that the only difference?
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Old 11-18-2014, 07:07 PM
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Yes, I would have paid $350 for that RP in a heart beat. You already have ammo for it so let us know when you get it to the range.
Will do. I'll try to get out there this week.
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Old 11-19-2014, 01:15 AM
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Hawkeye,

Dang that's a beauty. Good buy!

Pretty easy to pin down the period that one was produced. The 'barrel' style ejector rod knob was ordered 1/22/27 and medallions in the grips were ordered 2/11/1929. So likely produced between those dates or as late as the 2nd quarter in 1929 when old inventory of grips w/o medallions was used up.
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  #10  
Old 11-19-2014, 09:31 AM
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Hawkeye,

Dang that's a beauty. Good buy!

Pretty easy to pin down the period that one was produced. The 'barrel' style ejector rod knob was ordered 1/22/27 and medallions in the grips were ordered 2/11/1929. So likely produced between those dates or as late as the 2nd quarter in 1929 when old inventory of grips w/o medallions was used up.
Thanks.
According to the serial number, using the Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson, it was made around 1940.

I'll have to pull the grips to see if they are numbered to the gun. Might be older replacements, if you're correct. Or maybe I made a mistake in interpreting the Standard Catalog entry.

Last edited by The Real Hawkeye; 11-19-2014 at 09:35 AM.
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Old 11-19-2014, 10:25 AM
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Thanks.
According to the serial number, using the Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson, it was made around 1940.
S&W logged their guns by shipping dates and the SCSW3 is not meant to be an accurate source to find dates for revolvers. Problem with Regulation Police revolvers is that they were slow sellers from the depression to WWII. The only way to get an accurate date would be to request a $50 factory letter.

Your gun has stocks that were only made mainly in the 1920s, so I would question the 1940 date. If you supply the serial number, someone should be able to get you a close shipping year.
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  #12  
Old 11-19-2014, 11:31 AM
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Great price, fine score.

I'd guess 1928-29 from the barrel-shaped ejector rod knob and the lack of medallions on the stocks, but that assumes the stocks are original. The late '20s were the only time when guns left the factory with both those characteristics.
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  #13  
Old 11-19-2014, 11:48 AM
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Great price, fine score.

I'd guess 1928-29 from the barrel-shaped ejector rod knob and the lack of medallions on the stocks, but that assumes the stocks are original. The late '20s were the only time when guns left the factory with both those characteristics.
You and glowe must be right. I just pulled the stocks and, sure enough, the number matches the gun. Which means, I assume, that it doesn't have the hardened steel cylinder.
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Old 11-19-2014, 11:50 AM
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Serial number, by the way, is 490XXX. Does that help?
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Old 11-19-2014, 12:57 PM
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Serial number, by the way, is 490XXX. Does that help?
486XXX was shipped in May 1928, so David's estimates are right on.
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Old 11-19-2014, 01:37 PM
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486XXX was shipped in May 1928, so David's estimates are right on.
So it doesn't have the hardened steel cylinder, then, right?
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Old 11-19-2014, 02:04 PM
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Good score, Hawkeye. I have one just like it. The grips on mine were the tightest fitting grips I've ever seen. No rusting or anything, just tight, they may have never been off the gun before. The RP is one of the few I-frames that you can ocasionally find a bargain on. I think all the old 32 HEs have a regular round butt.
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Old 11-19-2014, 03:33 PM
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Yes, it has the rebated backstrap. So that means it's properly called "Regulation Police" and not "Hand Ejector?" Interesting. Thanks. Did the Hand Ejector have a standard grip? Is that the only difference?
The Regulation Police was a Hand Ejector. The latter term properly describes a whole category of revolvers, starting with the Model of 1896 in .32 and then also the larger-frame models in .32-20 and .38 Spl. starting with the Model 1899.

Last edited by Absalom; 11-19-2014 at 03:44 PM.
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Old 11-19-2014, 04:28 PM
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The Regulation Police was a Hand Ejector. The latter term properly describes a whole category of revolvers, starting with the Model of 1896 in .32 and then also the larger-frame models in .32-20 and .38 Spl. starting with the Model 1899.
OK, thanks.
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Old 11-19-2014, 04:29 PM
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Good score, Hawkeye. I have one just like it. The grips on mine were the tightest fitting grips I've ever seen. No rusting or anything, just tight, they may have never been off the gun before. The RP is one of the few I-frames that you can ocasionally find a bargain on. I think all the old 32 HEs have a regular round butt.
Yep, looks like a twin.
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Old 11-19-2014, 04:35 PM
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So it doesn't have the hardened steel cylinder, then, right?
It definitely has the heat treated cylinder which was ordered for all Smith revolvers by 1920. Heat Treated Cyls: There are approximate serial #s by model. Exp. 22/32 & 32s by c. #321000, 38 S&Ws by c. #20000.

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Originally Posted by The Real Hawkeye View Post
Yes, it has the rebated backstrap. So that means it's properly called "Regulation Police" and not "Hand Ejector?" Interesting. Thanks. Did the Hand Ejector have a standard grip? Is that the only difference?
The Regulation Police model was introduced in 1917 in .32 Long and .38 S&W calibers. Yours, a Reg Pol., is simply a .32 Hand Ejector with extended sq butt grip, rebated backstrap and a longer than 2" barrel.
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Old 11-19-2014, 04:41 PM
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Does it have a 2-line address on the barrel?
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Old 11-19-2014, 04:59 PM
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Does it have a 2-line address on the barrel?
Yes, it does.

Thanks, Hondo, for the information about the heat treatment of the cylinder. So they started that in 1920, right?

PS Took it to the range this afternoon. Loved shooting it. Shot target wadcutters. Groups were dead point of aim, and (at ten yards) all under 1.75 inches when fired carefully in single action mode. Double action works fine, too. Fun gun.

Had a bit of a scare, though, since by round thirty or so, I started having trouble opening the cylinder. By round forty or so I simply couldn't do it. It was stuck closed. Then I realized what had happened, and remembered how someone here at this forum dealt with this, which he related in his post last week, i.e., the ejector rod had gradually unscrewed itself. I screwed it back in and problem solved.

I assume this is going to happen from time to time with this gun, but it doesn't matter so long as I know what's happening, and can just screw it back in.
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Old 11-19-2014, 05:59 PM
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. . . the ejector rod had gradually unscrewed itself. I screwed it back in and problem solved.

I assume this is going to happen from time to time with this gun, but it doesn't matter so long as I know what's happening, and can just screw it back in.
Clean up the threads and use Loctite Blue, which is a medium strength. Just use a small amount and you should not have any more problems.
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Old 11-19-2014, 08:15 PM
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I just bought another one. Mine is serial: 519XXX, which I make to be around 1940, maybe, allowing for the info mentioned above.

So, I believe this would be considered a Third Model. (I used to have a Third Change with a 4-line address.

I like the light contour barrel.
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Old 11-19-2014, 08:24 PM
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Yes, it does.

Thanks, Hondo, for the information about the heat treatment of the cylinder. So they started that in 1920, right?

PS Took it to the range this afternoon. Loved shooting it. Shot target wadcutters. Groups were dead point of aim, and (at ten yards) all under 1.75 inches when fired carefully in single action mode. Double action works fine, too. Fun gun.

Had a bit of a scare, though, since by round thirty or so, I started having trouble opening the cylinder. By round forty or so I simply couldn't do it. It was stuck closed. Then I realized what had happened, and remembered how someone here at this forum dealt with this, which he related in his post last week, i.e., the ejector rod had gradually unscrewed itself. I screwed it back in and problem solved.

I assume this is going to happen from time to time with this gun, but it doesn't matter so long as I know what's happening, and can just screw it back in.
Yes, that's correct after 1920, all revolver cylinders were heat treated at S&W.

The rod unscrewing is not a typical problem with this model. It does happen if not tightened properly, however.
Glowe's suggestion for the blue Loctite is a good one. Personally I don't like to do that because I like to disassemble occasionally for a good cleaning. I fill the cyl with empty cases to support the extractor star, and clamp the rod in a padded vise. Then grasp the cyl in hand and tighten it. That always works for me. It's a choice everyone can make for themselves for their own guns, but either works well.
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Old 11-19-2014, 08:42 PM
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Yes, that's correct after 1920, all revolver cylinders were heat treated at S&W.

The rod unscrewing is not a typical problem with this model. It does happen if not tightened properly, however.
Glowe's suggestion for the blue Loctite is a good one. Personally I don't like to do that because I like to disassemble occasionally for a good cleaning. I fill the cyl with empty cases to support the extractor star, and clamp the rod in a padded vise. Then grasp the cyl in hand and tighten it. That always works for me. It's a choice everyone can make for themselves for their own guns, but either works well.
Yeah, I'd like to be able to take it down from time to time for extensive cleaning, so I guess I'll try the vice solution.
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Old 11-20-2014, 08:09 AM
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Yeah, I'd like to be able to take it down from time to time for extensive cleaning, so I guess I'll try the vice solution.
Hello Hawkeye
I would caution you on using a jawed vice it will destroy that Extractor end. If I had Nothing else to use I would Place my Pant's belt in the Jaw's of the vice to protect that extractor end some. Regards, Hammerdown
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Old 11-20-2014, 08:26 AM
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Hello Hawkeye
I would caution you on using a jawed vice it will destroy that Extractor end. If I had Nothing else to use I would Place my Pant's belt in the Jaw's of the vice to protect that extractor end some. Regards, Hammerdown
Oh, absolutely. I wouldn't think of using a vice on any gun part absent leather padding.
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Old 11-20-2014, 08:34 AM
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Oh, absolutely. I wouldn't think of using a vice on any gun part absent leather padding.
Hello Hawkeye
Just saying... I have Seen many of them Mauled in my past at Gun shows it tear's me up to see that... Hammerdown
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Old 11-20-2014, 10:11 AM
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Hello Hawkeye
Just saying... I have Seen many of them Mauled in my past at Gun shows it tear's me up to see that... Hammerdown
Me too. I bought a pristine, pinned heavy barrel, Model 10. Well, pristine except for marred up knurling on the end of the ejector rod. Clearly, someone had used a vice to tighten it, absent any sort of protection. Back in the day, these guns were just tools of a trade, and people didn't care much about appearances.

Here's a picture.

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Old 11-20-2014, 10:59 AM
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Clean up the threads and use Loctite Blue, which is a medium strength. Just use a small amount and you should not have any more problems.
See what you started Hawkeye. As mentioned above, if you use locktite use very sparingly as any excess could leak into other parts of the cylinder and cause serious problems.
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Old 11-20-2014, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Retired W4 View Post
See what you started Hawkeye. As mentioned above, if you use locktite use very sparingly as any excess could leak into other parts of the cylinder and cause serious problems.
No locktite for me. I'm just going to give it a firm turn.
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